Am I running hot?
- Thread starter bgrd351
- Start date
LaserRed01GT
Banned
The 4 valves can be tricky to bleed. This is what I do.
1. Drill a 1/8" hole in the plate of the t-stat. This allows both sides of the system to equalize and it will also assist in allowing the motor to warm up quicker and aids in bleeding.
2. Raise the front of the car.
3. Fill the expansion tank slowly until just above the add line. Leave the expansion cap off.
4. Remove the bleeder in the crossover and add coolant until you completel fill the engine. Close the bleeder.
5. Start the motor and turn on the heater on HI-FAN. Now remove the bleeder again and keep filling the crossover until it levels off. Close the bleeder hand tight.
6. After the motor is fully warmed up, you can just crack the bleeder open to ensure any residual air can escape.
7. Re-check the level in the expansion tank.
1. Drill a 1/8" hole in the plate of the t-stat. This allows both sides of the system to equalize and it will also assist in allowing the motor to warm up quicker and aids in bleeding.
2. Raise the front of the car.
3. Fill the expansion tank slowly until just above the add line. Leave the expansion cap off.
4. Remove the bleeder in the crossover and add coolant until you completel fill the engine. Close the bleeder.
5. Start the motor and turn on the heater on HI-FAN. Now remove the bleeder again and keep filling the crossover until it levels off. Close the bleeder hand tight.
6. After the motor is fully warmed up, you can just crack the bleeder open to ensure any residual air can escape.
7. Re-check the level in the expansion tank.
thank you for the info...but how do you flush the system w/o leaving non-distilled water in the system? I know how to do a flush on an old car with a hose but I have never done one on a Mod.
LaserRed01GT
Banned
In my expereince, tap water is actually better than the use of distilled water in an automotive coolant system. The primary reason is that purified or distilled water, can actually have a defervescence effect, effectively raising the boiling point of the coolant system. That's not a good thing. Distilled water not only has a higher boiling point than that of common tap H20, but it's boiling point is very unstable.
Also, distilled water can often become deionized upon the distillation process. This is also not good for a coolant system, because it will exacerbate the potential for damaging electrolysis to occur. Distilled or deionized water is also much less able to control the coolant systems's pH level, or more specifically to keep it stable. This is called the buffering capacity. Due to the lack of deionized water's buffering capacity, it is prone to allow the system to become excessively acidic (low pH) due to the absorbtion of the ever present C02 in the atmosphere, and therefore cannot inhibit the formation of carbonic acid (H2CO3).
I think my head just exploded!! 
Well, I didnt do the swap out last night due to family plans but will most likely be doing it Saturday morning. But you seem to have a handle on the science side of things...how bad would tap water be if it contains a LOT of chlorine in it? Jacksonville water has so much in it you can smell it.
LaserRed01GT
Banned
Well, I didnt do the swap out last night due to family plans but will most likely be doing it Saturday morning. But you seem to have a handle on the science side of things...how bad would tap water be if it contains a LOT of chlorine in it? Jacksonville water has so much in it you can smell it.
If your tap water is really that bad then it might not be a good idea. Is it Flourine or Chlorine?
on some days you swear some one poored bleach in the water. I'm thinking about at least buying drinking water in gallon jugs. Or maybe getting a filter to put on the hose to cut down on it because it also spots cars real bad.
LaserRed01GT
Banned
Yeah, I just moved here to Clearwater about 6 months ago and one of the first things I noticed was the water. I went to a local RV dealership over here and bought a garden hose in-line filter. I use it to wash my cars and trucks, and I also use it to add water to coolant systems. It works really well so far.
You could probably also Google "garden hose filter."
Great idea!!! I noticed that your company is based in Tx but your profile says Fl. lol I am looking for a filter now and I think that WalMart may have one but not sure.
speedfreak98r
Banned
Chlorine is corrosive, even in small amounts. I put bottled water in my car..Not like Ozarka brand, but the store bought 1 gallon stuff. 
LaserRed01GT
Banned
LOL, guess I ought to change that on my website huh?
But I do still have some employees doing some consulting for me in the San Antonio area. I sure do miss my old shop in New Braunfels though. I leased a small one here for now just for mostly personal use...maybe one day I'll open back up to the public, but for now my primary focus is on keeping this IT business up and running. It's a pain in the (_|_)!I bet Wally World does have a filter like that, they have everything else. I just saw they other day they had clay discs for skeet shooting.
I am going to have to go dig out my clay disc thrower out of storage and piss off my neighbors.I just got my now current Mach 1 and everything was fine. I have run the a/c and the heat without a single issue until today. I was driving home in the rain and came up on the usual traffic jam when it rains here and looked down at the temp gauge when the car seemed strange. Guess what I saw.....temp gauge going up past the A in Normal!!!!I didnt have the heat or a/c on this time. The fan was running non-stop and the temp kept going up but never made it to the L because the traffic in front of moved the the temped dropped quickly.
I watched the gauge the rest of the way home and it was the samething over and over for 30 min. of traffic. When I got home I jumped out and grabbed my laser temp gun and the hoses read cool (150) after the car was off. So I started the car and let it idle and kept checking different areas and the gauge. It all stabilized at 205-210 on the radiator and M on the gauge and the fan running non-stop.
So is this normal for the Mach 1's or is there something wrong? I hate to think that with only 24k miles that there is something wrong already. I have checked the coolant with a tester and it reads fine even with the stock clearish coolant.
Any other ideas? Sorry about the long post but details help.
One key comment - you said you were running without the heat or a/c. Are you sure the electric fan right behind the radiator is coming on ? I know when I run my a/c , that fan is on just about all the time...
that is correct...I did not have the a/c or heat on. The reason I even mentioned it was because the heat would help cool the engine and the a/c would help heat up the engine and run the fan non-stop. This is important because the fan was running nonstop w/o the a/c and has not since. I just keep having coolant loss from under the cap but not everyday and not in driving but more after parking.
billfisher
Active Member
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