CanyonCarver515
Member
This is one sick little snake you've got there.
I enjoyed the video and the engine sounds wicked.
I enjoyed the video and the engine sounds wicked.
67 Super Snake Project
- Thread starter 67FBack
- Start date
Thanks guys. The exhaust is the JBA 2 1/2" with Spintech mufflers, JBA ceramic coated tri Y headers.
If it ever stops raining here (it has rained here at least once a day, everyday, for over 4 weeks, that never happens here in the summer) I am going to detail it and get it out for some videos!
If it ever stops raining here (it has rained here at least once a day, everyday, for over 4 weeks, that never happens here in the summer) I am going to detail it and get it out for some videos!
First Exterior Detail
Here are some pictures of the car just after I did the first exterior detail. I will get some better shots in the near future.
Here are some pictures of the car just after I did the first exterior detail. I will get some better shots in the near future.
CanyonCarver515
Member
This is a spectacular car. Get it shot by a pro. How far are you from Houston? I know a talented lady who can do that for you.
Thanks!
I was thinking about getting a pro to shoot it. I live in New Braunfels, Tx. About 200 miles from Houston. Travel costs may make it prohibitive.
CanyonCarver515
Member
jlangholzj
Mustang Master
wow that black paint looks wicked! nicely done. Its nice to see that someone is making sick cars out of the GT-500 scheme other than just the typical "elanor" job. too many people have done it for them to be special anymore. I can garuntee that there is NO OTHER CAR LIKE YOURS!! unfortunately i some a 67 fastback that a guy from siox city IA that absolutly murdered, made it all art deco modern-ish. oh well anothers vision. anywho, you got one for the museum man! nice ride.
Valve Train & Vortech Hat
I changed the plugs (again) and adjusted the valves. Got close to 100 miles on her now. Want to see some trick valve train ...
The blue S/C hose is GONE. The aluminum intake tube has been cut to fit and is at the welders (I'm not that good, and don't have a TIG). Now compare the hat before and after:
I changed the plugs (again) and adjusted the valves. Got close to 100 miles on her now. Want to see some trick valve train ...
The blue S/C hose is GONE. The aluminum intake tube has been cut to fit and is at the welders (I'm not that good, and don't have a TIG). Now compare the hat before and after:
Cold Air complete, Snake turns in to Medusa
Seems like every time I make one step forward, I take one step back.
Got the cold air intake installed.
Now for the good news/bad news. Good news is I found out why it is running so rough. When I adjusted the valves, I adjusted only the right (passenger) bank, because I was getting a little lifter noise. But I still noticed a roughness in the idle, and something was just not right. So I pulled a compression check. Cyl 6, 7 & 8. Were low. #1 was at 120# after 3 revs. Cyl #8 got up to 95# after 5 compression strokes. I pulled the valve cover, turned it over to the heel on the cam, and backed off the tensioner. The valve MOVED UP. It was not seating properly. SO I backed it off a little more. NO SPRING. Goes loose immediately. Adjusted it back down, up, down. Adjusts exactly like a solid lifter. YEP, collapsed lifter. Checked 6, 7, & 8. All collapsed. 5 is OK. CRRAPPPPPPP
The Snake reared its ugly head and turned in to Medusa!
View attachment 377176
Would that be a good name for this project?
This is a rookie mistake by the engine builder. I am a little PO'd. I'm gonna see what they are planning to do. $36k for engine and you would expect perfection!$%*^$
Seems like every time I make one step forward, I take one step back.
Got the cold air intake installed.
Now for the good news/bad news. Good news is I found out why it is running so rough. When I adjusted the valves, I adjusted only the right (passenger) bank, because I was getting a little lifter noise. But I still noticed a roughness in the idle, and something was just not right. So I pulled a compression check. Cyl 6, 7 & 8. Were low. #1 was at 120# after 3 revs. Cyl #8 got up to 95# after 5 compression strokes. I pulled the valve cover, turned it over to the heel on the cam, and backed off the tensioner. The valve MOVED UP. It was not seating properly. SO I backed it off a little more. NO SPRING. Goes loose immediately. Adjusted it back down, up, down. Adjusts exactly like a solid lifter. YEP, collapsed lifter. Checked 6, 7, & 8. All collapsed. 5 is OK. CRRAPPPPPPP
The Snake reared its ugly head and turned in to Medusa!
View attachment 377176
Would that be a good name for this project?
This is a rookie mistake by the engine builder. I am a little PO'd. I'm gonna see what they are planning to do. $36k for engine and you would expect perfection!$%*^$
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
68FBJJZ109
Member
Car looks great, great reality check,I am putting off putting a DOHC 4.6 in my DD notch and spend money on the 68. I would hope the Engine builder will resolve your problem free of charge, something of that nature really shouldn't happen.
Also although you only have 100 miles on her, do you notice any potential problems from stones and such hitting the lower rear quarters? It just something I have been thinking about on my car seeing my tires although still tucked are pretty far out there, and we have similar set ups.
Also although you only have 100 miles on her, do you notice any potential problems from stones and such hitting the lower rear quarters? It just something I have been thinking about on my car seeing my tires although still tucked are pretty far out there, and we have similar set ups.
jlangholzj
Mustang Master
your gunna kill me when i suggest it, but get some chrome mud flaps mine actually dont look that bad.
jcode68
Active Member
Damn, I feel for you. I'm surprised they didn't catch this problem when they dyno'd the engine 
I'm sure the very last thing you want to do after getting everything installed just right is tear down the top of your engine. Let us know when you/they determine the root cause of the failure.
I'm sure the very last thing you want to do after getting everything installed just right is tear down the top of your engine. Let us know when you/they determine the root cause of the failure.
Get mudflaps of any kind! NPD sells some nice removable flaps.
I have about half a dozen rock chips on the rear quarters behind the tires after new paint
jcode68
Active Member
A better looking but more expensive option is to have 3M Clear Bra installed on the areas likely to get chipped. Stuff is very durable and nearly invisible and last 5+ years depending on use. Had some put on my 2007 and you can't see it unless you get very, very close.
