Easiest Repair year 65, 70, 90,95,98,99????????

What about people who live in Arizona, or Florida? They need AC

Power steering is a good thing!

What if its a street car and you need the emissions to pass inspection?

I guess you'll free up GOBBS or space by hiding some big bulky wires! :shrug:

Engine bay considerations!
engine size considerations!
engine location considerations!
these may be the most important factors relating to repair difficultys.
As a whole 8's tend to be more difficult all around cause of the space consumed by them.
generaly in line 6,s rwd tend to be the easiest.
we all know this .
My question refers to v8's compared to other v8,s though.
most other repairs are not influenced by space consumed uner the hood by engine and or accesories.
Except exhaust takes up space by v8's also.
Basicaly the smallest car with the biggest v8 generally tends to be a pain to repair.
V8,s dual exhaust, small body pain to repair.
im 56 y.o. working on them since 20 or so you see i may be finally a new car candidate?????
I still will probably change starter and waterpump in my 5.0 if the engine doesn't give out altogether ,then ill be forced to find alternate transpo?????
remeber 220,000 miles now original engine:rolleyes:
 
IMO ease of repair doesn't break down by year, it goes like this:

In order of easiest to hardest:

Carbureted>EFI 5.0>4.6 SOHC>4.6DOHC

Which basically just breaks down to less parts to remove/replace and work on in the event that you need to do a repair. I come to that conclusion by considering the work it would take to do a full head/intake/cam swap on each of those different motors....and the difference between doing an h/c/i on a carbed 5.0 vs a DOHC 4.6 is night and day.
 
IMO ease of repair doesn't break down by year, it goes like this:

In order of easiest to hardest:

Carbureted>EFI 5.0>4.6 SOHC>4.6DOHC

Which basically just breaks down to less parts to remove/replace and work on in the event that you need to do a repair. I come to that conclusion by considering the work it would take to do a full head/intake/cam swap on each of those different motors....and the difference between doing an h/c/i on a carbed 5.0 vs a DOHC 4.6 is night and day.

yes i see that in that case!!!!!!!!
So yes there are differences in v8's as far as ease of repair and or modification!,
hence, 4.6 ohv. 4.6 4v versus 5.0
not to mention lt-1 , ls-1 just the sake of point being made .
Us californians are stuck with e.f.i. or old carbed car cause of smog laws here.
were more limited in that aspect.
your order yeah, but aren't newer even more crowded with B.S. also under the hood, vac lines,sensors ect????:shock:
 
IMO ease of repair doesn't break down by year, it goes like this:

In order of easiest to hardest:

Carbureted>EFI 5.0>4.6 SOHC>4.6DOHC

Which basically just breaks down to less parts to remove/replace and work on in the event that you need to do a repair. I come to that conclusion by considering the work it would take to do a full head/intake/cam swap on each of those different motors....and the difference between doing an h/c/i on a carbed 5.0 vs a DOHC 4.6 is night and day.

our cali carbed 84 85 stangs and f bodys are so smogged they stumble generally off line and aint worth doo doo stock wise generally:eek:
 
and you think a 99 is going to be easier to work on..bwhahahahahhahaha your a funny guy..by far the fox is the easiest to work on.

as far as rack and pinion changes newer probably wont need it but if so it 's ease depends on how cramped everything is underneath.
Like the steeringshaft and rack connector rag joint pinchbolt clamp ect, is in such a small dark cramped spot sticking up in a hostile corner access is hard laying on ur back , grease and dirt falling everywhere using a light bulb, thats reality of changing a rack on a fox , it aint a pleasure, and i'm sure it wouldn't be any easier in an sn95 or 99 up but i was just inquiring and venting!!!!:eek:
 
yes i see that in that case!!!!!!!!
So yes there are differences in v8's as far as ease of repair and or modification!,
hence, 4.6 ohv. 4.6 4v versus 5.0
not to mention lt-1 , ls-1 just the sake of point being made .
Us californians are stuck with e.f.i. or old carbed car cause of smog laws here.
were more limited in that aspect.
your order yeah, but aren't newer even more crowded with B.S. also under the hood, vac lines,sensors ect????:shock:


Oh yeah, definitely. Hell just comparing an '85 5.0 to an '86 5.0 is a big difference, let alone a carbed engine bay vs. an '04 Cobra engine bay. Lots more wiring harnesses and sensors to deal with, lots more to wrench on when taking parts off.

For example let's consider just how much work it would take to change in intake gasket on an '07 GT vs. your typical carbed engine. I can have my intake and carb off the engine with something like 8 bolts i believe...just undo the fuel lines to the carb and radiator hose and unbolt the engine and carb all in one and lift it off...pretty simple. It isn't that much more work on the '07 just for intakes, but when you start dealing with OHC and DOHC, you've got a lot more parts to deal with.

It's not impossible, it's just more to do and i'm pointing that out.
 
Anything mustang 65 to 85 is the easiest to work on. Carb is as you probably know is the easiest way to go and is cheaper to upgrade and less to go wrong. If you took the same motor and put a comparable carb on it to an Efi system is would be a hell of alot cheaper and would make near if not just as much power. Little less fuel mileage
 
Anything mustang 65 to 85 is the easiest to work on. Carb is as you probably know is the easiest way to go and is cheaper to upgrade and less to go wrong. If you took the same motor and put a comparable carb on it to an Efi system is would be a hell of alot cheaper and would make near if not just as much power. Little less fuel mileage

ok cali stock 84 85's are smogged and stumble off line generally and are no where as smooth driveability wise.
Another point is how many carbed cars go 220,000 miles +!
I think the carb inacuracies wash the piston walls with unprecise amount of fuel delivered,
I believe it's why e.f.i. cars go longer befor rebuilds precise fuel delivery!!!
 
ok cali stock 84 85's are smogged and stumble off line generally and are no where as smooth driveability wise.
Another point is how many carbed cars go 220,000 miles +!
I think the carb inacuracies wash the piston walls with unprecise amount of fuel delivered,
I believe it's why e.f.i. cars go longer befor rebuilds precise fuel delivery!!!



I've got 250K+ on my stock short block, including the last 5 years as a race/weekend warrior car. It spent most of it's like as a police car chasing bad guys....i think you're barking opinions on that comment. There's no proof that EFI's last longer than carb motors...that's absurd. General maintenance is the key, including keeping your carb tuned. Any example where the carb motor runs so bad that it causes excess wear on the engine isn't the fault of the carb setup, it's the fault of the owner for not maintaining his car.
 
I've got 250K+ on my stock short block, including the last 5 years as a race/weekend warrior car. It spent most of it's like as a police car chasing bad guys....i think you're barking opinions on that comment. There's no proof that EFI's last longer than carb motors...that's absurd. General maintenance is the key, including keeping your carb tuned. Any example where the carb motor runs so bad that it causes excess wear on the engine isn't the fault of the carb setup, it's the fault of the owner for not maintaining his car.

hmmmmmmmmm:nonono:
 
Well? I mean i'm not picking a fight or anything but how can you back that up? Yes, an EFI will stay in tune way longer, absolutely. But my car is a perfect example of how a maintained carb engine can last a very long time. In fact when i got it, the motor was absolutely factory stock and smog legal, still running the original carb. That's pretty damn good for a 23 year old engine (well, i've had it since '03 and swapped the carb in '04, so it went 19 years on the stock carb).
 
Well? I mean i'm not picking a fight or anything but how can you back that up? Yes, an EFI will stay in tune way longer, absolutely. But my car is a perfect example of how a maintained carb engine can last a very long time. In fact when i got it, the motor was absolutely factory stock and smog legal, still running the original carb. That's pretty damn good for a 23 year old engine (well, i've had it since '03 and swapped the carb in '04, so it went 19 years on the stock carb).

I ,ve never had a carbed car that went 220,000 miles ive actually knew a 79 trans am that did though.
Two issues 1 here in cali the 84 85,s ive had didn't run as well as my e.f.i. 5.0.
I had 65 ,67,carbed stangs ran good as far as longevity i didn't have them long enough to determine their full engine life same for my trans ams 70,s vintage.
I made that statement based on my current 5.0, glad to hear that their are carbed cars stangs that can also go many miles per ur experience .
I'd like other experiences shared by other members also.
My original post though related to ease of repair based on underhood room and accesability,
I actally wrote this post in reference to my installing a new rack and pinion on my 89.
I wanted to know if these other year stangs had more or less room i didn,t state under the car i was concerned both under and under the hood.
good to know 84 85 stangs can have longevity also.
based on youer experience ,i definitly wasn't dissing carbed cars ,especially for those in other states maybe a different carb can be put on to make them run better than the stock set up on these cali smogged 84 85,s
 
I definitely agree that they take more to maintain, obviously since they're older, especially when smog comes into play. I thought you meant strictly from a maintenance and longevity perspective. There's no reason an EFI car would have a longer life...it's just that they're newer so obviously there's gonna be more of them out there. Of course, your typical EFI car is going to run better than a carb car just because it takes a person who really knows a lot about carbs to keep them running right (not saying you dont....but compare your knowledge of tuning a carb to the knowledge that the EFI computer has....the EFI knows more than you so it keeps the EFI running better than you keep the carb running).

On a negative note my car also needs the carb rebuilt as we speak....so there's definitely down sides. The upside to that though is if you consider how cheap i can rebuild it for compared to what it might cost to replace injectors in an EFI setup...it definitely pays off in one way or another.
 
But easier to work on is a carbed car. plain and simple. If something goes wrong its easy to diagnose. You dont have to worry about sensors going bad yada yada yada.

Ok E.F.I sensor probs are highly exagerated i'll say cause i got 220,000 miles on this E.F.I 5.0.
In the over 10 years i had it and the 6 years the original owner had it E.F.I probs were as follows.
Under fact waranty ford replaced cats free of charge a recal.
I had 1 check engine light that daignosed to be an egr. sensor that was cured wit h a $2.00 junkyard replacement part.
every 2 year smog test my car has passed including the stringent dynometer test stared several years ago.
So ill recap in 18 years 220,000 miles and still a daily driver my only car ive spent $0 on e.f.i. problems the junkyard part was given to me.
ANY QUESTIONS ????????:rlaugh:
 
Ok E.F.I sensor probs are highly exagerated i'll say cause i got 220,000 miles on this E.F.I 5.0.
In the over 10 years i had it and the 6 years the original owner had it E.F.I probs were as follows.
Under fact waranty ford replaced cats free of charge a recal.
I had 1 check engine light that daignosed to be an egr. sensor that was cured wit h a $2.00 junkyard replacement part.
every 2 year smog test my car has passed including the stringent dynometer test stared several years ago.
So ill recap in 18 years 220,000 miles and still a daily driver my only car ive spent $0 on e.f.i. problems the junkyard part was given to me.
ANY QUESTIONS ????????:rlaugh:


LOL....let's race....you change your injectors to match some newly installed mods and i'll jet my carb...lets see who wins :D


oh by the way, you'll also need some dyno tuning to get your tune right...how much is dyno time these days? :D
 
LOL....let's race....you change your injectors to match some newly installed mods and i'll jet my carb...lets see who wins :D


oh by the way, you'll also need some dyno tuning to get your tune right...how much is dyno time these days? :D

Wont need mods even at 220,000 miles bone stock excluding a k and n filter he he he!
Your on the wrong tangent post and tree.
this post is ease of repair between 89, 90, 95, 96 ,99, 65-70 ok so go rebuild ur carb and dream on oh have a nice day sir!!!!!!!!!!!!!:rlaugh:
 
Ok E.F.I sensor probs are highly exagerated i'll say cause i got 220,000 miles on this E.F.I 5.0.
In the over 10 years i had it and the 6 years the original owner had it E.F.I probs were as follows.
Under fact waranty ford replaced cats free of charge a recal.
I had 1 check engine light that daignosed to be an egr. sensor that was cured wit h a $2.00 junkyard replacement part.
every 2 year smog test my car has passed including the stringent dynometer test stared several years ago.
So ill recap in 18 years 220,000 miles and still a daily driver my only car ive spent $0 on e.f.i. problems the junkyard part was given to me.
ANY QUESTIONS ????????:rlaugh:

I think you have me wrong.

85 said it right on the money"LOL....let's race....you change your injectors to match some newly installed mods and i'll jet my carb...lets see who wins

oh by the way, you'll also need some dyno tuning to get your tune right...how much is dyno time these days?"

Its a much simplier system and simplier systems are easier to mod and work on. And when something is simplier but is almost if not just as efficient along with cheaper when you are doing upgrades which is the most logical choice?