Under hood Temps........Help

[grego37]

In an effort to reduce my under hood temps,

has anyone cut into the cowel area between the export brace and the hood seal on the back wall of the engine compartment, to have heat travel out the cowel vents?

any other ideas to have the heat flow out somewhere?

I have a 67 shelby clone, with a 67 shelby hood (no louvers)

 

[dodgestang]

What is your underhood temp? AKA why do you think you have a problem?

 

[grego37]

just figured the cooler you can keep the incomming fuel the better.
All my fuel line is in fire sleeve , so thats ok. But I have a 6" billet alum fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator mounted on the side, and after a cruise when I touch those parts they are hot!! Can only hold them for a few seconds hot. and if those parts are that hot , they're just heating up the fuel as it passes through it.

I dont want/need a cool can.
and I dont want to wrap those parts with a heat barrier or build a housing around them.
I Just want to entertain the idea of having the heat flow out

 

[rbohm]

you would be better off running a return line back to the tank from a dual out fuel pressure regulator.

 

[grego37]

you would be better off running a return line back to the tank from a dual out fuel pressure regulator.

Can I do this even if it is a carbeurated engine?
I thought that was only for fuel injection.

I have a good aeromotive regulator and fuel pump, the regulator does have a second output that I plugged. Would I have to have an extra threaded bung added to my fuel tank, then run the return fuel line?? Doing this wouldnt restirct my fuel needs under full throttle?

I had a custom steel tank made a few yrs. ago.
I has threaded bung for vent, and another for outlet, and has a recesed (flush) cap assy. and the fuel sender hole

thanks.

 

[SoCalCruising]

You can put spacers between your hood and hinge to lift the rear of the hood a bit. That will allow heat to escape. This is an old-school, period correct solution.

I have seen holes cut into the cowl for induction of clean, cool air, but not for evacuation of hot air. Are you running ceramic coated headers? They help.

 

[rufusbooth]

The cowl is a high pressure area. That is why they use it as a cold air inlet for cowl induction hoods and your vent system. At speed you will not really get any advantage to having the hood open in that high pressure region as it will be holding the hot air in. At low speeds you may get an advantage but probably not much.

If you want to lower the temps under hood get your headers coated and optimize your fan as much as possible. Use a fan shroud and ensure your fan clutch is in good shape or use a direct drive unit. You can also use the heavy duty A/C fan with more blades to move the air out.

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[ron67fb]

I have a good aeromotive regulator and fuel pump, the regulator does have a second output that I plugged.

That's an extra port for dual carbs or a pressure gauge. There are return-style regulators made for carbs if you want to run a return line.

 

[CanyonCarver515]

Maybe you can make a cowl induction inspired from the Chevrolet version used on Chevelles and Camaros. It uses a reversed scoop aimed at the cowl and an air cleaner assembly that's sealed to the top of the hood to guarantee a supply of outside air to the engine. That can be grafted for an interesting (if unholy) Ford / Chevy union.

 

[rbohm]

Can I do this even if it is a carbeurated engine?
I thought that was only for fuel injection.

nope you can use it on a carbed engine also. in fact many racers do to maximize fuel cooling without a cool can.

I have a good aeromotive regulator and fuel pump, the regulator does have a second output that I plugged. Would I have to have an extra threaded bung added to my fuel tank, then run the return fuel line?? Doing this wouldnt restirct my fuel needs under full throttle?

yes you will need another inlet for the tank. since you have a good fuel pump, that likely puts out far more volume and pressure than you need, the regulator will maintain proper fuel pressure to both sides. in fact that is what the regulator was originally designed for, running a return line, not a second carb.

I had a custom steel tank made a few yrs. ago.
I has threaded bung for vent, and another for outlet, and has a recesed (flush) cap assy. and the fuel sender hole

thanks.

then adding a fitting for the return line shouldnt be hard.

 

[ron67fb]

in fact that is what the regulator was originally designed for, running a return line, not a second carb.

Considering Aeromotive makes different regulators from deadheads to return-style to quad-outlet units, how did you determine this without a part number? If his regulator is "in fact" designed for a return line and it is currently plugged the car would be pouring fuel out the carb bowl's vents. Deadhead regulators with multiple ports are designed for multiple carbs and/or multi-inlet carburetors.

 

[grego37]

thanks for all the input.
I have just re-posted this topic as:

"To run a return fuel line or not"