Temp after aluminum rad?

stprorolla49

stprorolla49

Active Member
Oct 9, 2004
1,455
15
39
Fairfield, CT/North Jersey
#1
I have been searching and searching, and I can't seem to find how many degrees the temperature drops after installing an aluminum rad such as th Mishimoto which I just recieved. I'm not interested in where on the NORMAL gauge it reads, thats all I can seem to find, and that doesn't help me. Thanks!
 
#2
Mine still runs at the same temp after the mishimoto install, another bad thing about the radiator is that i cant keep the cap from leaking...on my third cap, gonna try a ford one today before the dynotune tomorrow, i think thats why it still runs warm because it's not holding the pressure inside
 
#3
If the cap is leaking there is something wrong with the mating surface, I have a stock 16# cap if you want to test it.

juiced_94gt said:
Mine still runs at the same temp after the mishimoto install, another bad thing about the radiator is that i cant keep the cap from leaking...on my third cap, gonna try a ford one today before the dynotune tomorrow, i think thats why it still runs warm because it's not holding the pressure inside
Click to expand...
 
#4
After installing my fluidyne the temp is the same also. Which is around 195ish. I run a 180degree thermostat, and a 60/40 water/coolant mix. In the heat it will still climb to the 220 range in which case I run a manual fan switch to bring it down to the 195 again. But, 195 is the lowest I've seen it go. I do notice it cools off faster so I guess the whole $340 wasn't a waste, lol. The accuracy of my autometer gauge and thermostat might be in question. Both are pretty new, however I might replace the 180 thermostat I bought from NAPA with a Mr. Gasket one.
 
#6
I thought I remember reading that the stock cap will not fit the Mishimoto radiators, it uses a different size cap. Hopefully I'm wrong as I have one of these radiators coming in a day or two.


juiced_94gt said:
I would love to test that cap...how do i go about getting it from you?? Im going to be at Powertrain dynamics at 9:00 a.m if thats close to you.
Click to expand...
 
#8
It will all depend upon how overworked the old radiator was Michael. The better question would be: are people able to stay very close to their t-stat rated temp (assuming the fan control works in concert with a given t-stat).

Ideal would be to have the coolant stay at about 5*F higher than the stat rating at all times (if using a balanced stat). That would mean the radiator can reject all the heat that is tossed into it.

I dont know about interpolating the stock gauge though. The RT guys can really help with that.

Good luck.
 
#9
HISSIN50 said:
It will all depend upon how overworked the old radiator was Michael. The better question would be: are people able to stay very close to their t-stat rated temp (assuming the fan control works in concert with a given t-stat).

Ideal would be to have the coolant stay at about 5*F higher than the stat rating at all times (if using a balanced stat). That would mean the radiator can reject all the heat that is tossed into it.

I dont know about interpolating the stock gauge though. The RT guys can really help with that.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Huh...splain please :shrug:
 
#10
HISSIN50 said:
It will all depend upon how overworked the old radiator was Michael. The better question would be: are people able to stay very close to their t-stat rated temp (assuming the fan control works in concert with a given t-stat).

Is a 195* t-stat with the fan settings able to stay around a temp of 195*?


Ideal would be to have the coolant stay at about 5*F higher than the stat rating at all times (if using a balanced stat). That would mean the radiator can reject all the heat that is tossed into it.

It would be Ideal if the coolant temp were to stay within 5* of the t-stat rating. Ex. 180* t-stat the temp should stay around 185*



I dont know about interpolating the stock gauge though. The RT guys can really help with that.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

I think that is what he ment????????????:shrug: :D

The degrees won't drop much but it will keep the temp at a steady tempature from WOT to idle alot less spike in temp. :nice:

Also with the if you don't change the fan settings there won't be that much of a change in temp either.
 
#11
The tstat & fan temps govern things guys :D

No matter if you put a honkin huge rad in ;)

Now ... its true .............

The oem rad don't have much reserve :(

Thats why it is poo poo when you do mods to make more power :Word:

Like JT said :nice:
in a case like that ... you are asking for it to pull more heat than it can :)

Grady
 
#14
stprorolla49 said:
I have been searching and searching, and I can't seem to find how many degrees the temperature drops after installing an aluminum rad such as th Mishimoto which I just recieved. I'm not interested in where on the NORMAL gauge it reads, thats all I can seem to find, and that doesn't help me. Thanks!
Click to expand...

With 60% distilled water, 40% coolant and one bottle of water wetter mine dropped from the R to barely on the O on the stock gauge. On an Autometer gauge the temp reached just on the right side of 200, now it's not on the 200 on the left side so I have to say 10 degrees of a little less. I drove it from Largo FL to Orlando and back with a NAPA cap with no problems, changed caps to the one that came with it and drove it about two weeks local with no problems. The guy that put mine in is a perfectionist and the neck on mine was off just by a couple millimeters, he used emery cloth to make it perfect.
 
#15
Thanks guys, well I've been running around 215-220 on a regular basis now weather its hot or cold out. It seems to stay closer to around 215ish when its cooler out, but when its hot and im on the highway, it will go up to i guess 228 where the high speed fans come on which is way too hot for comfort. I guess my next question is, does anyone have a writeup for installing manual fan switches?
 
#16
stprorolla49 said:
Thanks guys, well I've been running around 215-220 on a regular basis now weather its hot or cold out. It seems to stay closer to around 215ish when its cooler out, but when its hot and im on the highway, it will go up to i guess 228 where the high speed fans come on which is way too hot for comfort. I guess my next question is, does anyone have a writeup for installing manual fan switches?
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat. As long as I keep the AC switched off, the temp. stays around 215. When I switch it on, it rockets up to 230 and even when I turn my manual high speed fan switch on, the fan only brings the temp. down to 220 at best. On the highway, the engine still runs too hot for comfort and it's no fun driving in 110*F weather with the AC off just to keep the engine from overheating.
I'm trying to put together an order for a Mishimoto radiator from kteller but it's not easy for those of us living outside the US. :( I don't want to pay $400 for a Fluidyne knowing that the Mishimoto is half the price.
 
#17
I have a stock radiator in my car... it held on the highway with the A/C cranked all the way in this past 103* outside temps. It's when I would stop that it would start to heat up even with the fan running. It just takes a long time to get it to cool back down. This is where I feel an aftermarket radiator would help. The amount of time to get back to the normal temps once it's climbed past it due to sitting in traffic.
 
#20
UPDATE: I installed the rad this afternoon. It was really straight forward and only took about 2 hrs taking my time. I went for a blast after I finished, and I was a bit disappointed. After driving around for a while, the temp climbed up to its normal 212ish degrees and then fluctuated between 200 and 215. I did notice that after I ran thru 1st, 2nd, and 3rd it climbe up only slightly, then quickly came back down to around 205, but i was hoping it was gonna be under 200 while cruising. Do you think a 180* stat will make a noticeable difference? JT or Grady (can't remember) mentioned thats its worth upwards of -8*...true or false?
 
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