Best battery cable lugs/terminal ends
- Thread starter Rusty67
- Start date
I use the copper crush lugs, then solder and heat-shrink. Copper seems to hold up much better than some of the steel terminals and conducts better. You can usually find them in welding stores used for making welder cables.
Soldering probably isn't necessary, but I like the piece of mind.
Good point about using copper for conductivity.
I am Highly interested in the connectors used for the battery terminals. The ones on my 67 are CRAP and I'm going to be trunking the battery eventually. When I do that its going to be a hole new ball game and I want to use some really nice connectors that are also easy to use/install.
I am Highly interested in the connectors used for the battery terminals. The ones on my 67 are CRAP and I'm going to be trunking the battery eventually. When I do that its going to be a hole new ball game and I want to use some really nice connectors that are also easy to use/install.
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
I do th same...dont crush them, just solder. You can pick up solder pellets at your local napa. They are made to solder end. They have flux on the pellets to. Put the flat side of the end in a vice, heat it with a propane torch until the solder melts and you hear the flux boil, then stab in the wire.
Said and done with great connections.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
Crimped mine. Sodering can be ok, but I would soder only with crimping. Adding too much soder can lead to poor conduction
I purchased heavy duty battery cables from a local store, these were terminated at both ends. I used to work in a parts store and while we didn't stock these they are in the catalog. These do not have that extra wire with the female butt connector that is hardly evern needed or used. I can't remember the wire gauge, but is was at least two sizes over the standard cables. These were made by KEM and only come in one coloer, black, which I wanted anyway.
I also looked at getting these type of terminals, http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...nWidth=804&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct= scroll down a little and look at the "M" type ends. No crimping or soldering needed, and they are HEAVY DUTY.
I also looked at getting these type of terminals, http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...nWidth=804&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct= scroll down a little and look at the "M" type ends. No crimping or soldering needed, and they are HEAVY DUTY.
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
I bought a battery relocation kit from Summit and it used that fitting. Worked great.
StangDreamin'
Founding Member
"Shouldn't" have to crimp the copper lugs, solder "should" do it. Used the quotes because I've seen some outstanding examples of terminations soldered by those who didn't know how to solder!
I haven't done that many battery cables; but have done bazillions of 8-10-12 gauge power connections for mobile radios - trucks, ambulances, police cars, etc; as well a a few welding cable sets. I like the lightly-plated copper terminals; and generally use the "no-lead" plumbers' solder for heavy connections (like the welding leads) - I would do/have done the same for battery cables. For the smaller stuff, I use "electronic silver solder" - yes there's silver powder in the mix; works great for a good low-resistance solid vibration-impervious connection. It cost a little more, but worth it.
Better than heat-shrink (for blocking corrosion from HCl around batteries) is something called "corona dope"; which is a thick, high strength varnish - usually red in color. Originally used on vacuum tube equipment (especially TV picture tubes); this stuff is very impervious to heat, vibration, and especially corrosives like HCl gas. I've seen the same stuff in small (but usually ex$pensive) bottles around the battery aisle at Checker/Schucks/Kragen/Autozone(d)/NAPA. It works. Period.
All this stuff is probably overkill; but it's never failed me. Of course, I learned to use this stuff as part of my then-career - it may not be for the average homeowner. YMMV
I haven't done that many battery cables; but have done bazillions of 8-10-12 gauge power connections for mobile radios - trucks, ambulances, police cars, etc; as well a a few welding cable sets. I like the lightly-plated copper terminals; and generally use the "no-lead" plumbers' solder for heavy connections (like the welding leads) - I would do/have done the same for battery cables. For the smaller stuff, I use "electronic silver solder" - yes there's silver powder in the mix; works great for a good low-resistance solid vibration-impervious connection. It cost a little more, but worth it.
Better than heat-shrink (for blocking corrosion from HCl around batteries) is something called "corona dope"; which is a thick, high strength varnish - usually red in color. Originally used on vacuum tube equipment (especially TV picture tubes); this stuff is very impervious to heat, vibration, and especially corrosives like HCl gas. I've seen the same stuff in small (but usually ex$pensive) bottles around the battery aisle at Checker/Schucks/Kragen/Autozone(d)/NAPA. It works. Period.
All this stuff is probably overkill; but it's never failed me. Of course, I learned to use this stuff as part of my then-career - it may not be for the average homeowner. YMMV
