EFI Supercharger Discharge Pipe

I have some clearance problems with my Vortech supercharger on my EFI engine. The inlet pipe hits the shock tower (suprise, suprise :nonono: ) Does anybody have a picture of how they addressed this problem. I don't want to go with some sort of flex hose, that would be too easy.

The discharge pipe is 2.5" at the supercharger and goes to 3" at the throttle body. I am thinking of purchaseing a 2.5" mandrel u pipe and cutting it to fit around the shock tower. It needs to move over about 2" toward the engine. Then welding on an exhaust reducer that will increase the pipe diameter to 3" and then a 90* 3" elbow to the throttle body. When I have it all done taking it to the chrome shop. :shrug:

Before I invest in this path I want to see what others have done or perhaps additional ideas. Thanks.
 
when i was going through that, i bought one of those ricer intercooler kits off ebay for about 90 bucks. It has way more pieces then you need , but it has straights,90*'s and 45*. just cut what you need.For the 2.5" oulet, use a silicone hose from the kit,slit it,silicone it to the blower,the 1/4" thickness will make it a 3" OD.
intercooler_piping_3.jpg
 
Great idea!!! What was the kit made of? Stainless, Aluminum or chromed steel? Did you have a blowoff valve fitting welded in the tube or was it strong enough you could just drill and tap?
Its polished aluminum, with a clear anodizing or some type of coating.My blower dodnt have a blow off valve and this is thni wall tubing, so the welder would have to be pretty good at thin metal. You could probably tap it, but i never tried.

I still have about 80% of the kit left with red couplers i didnt use:p
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I have some clearance problems with my Vortech supercharger on my EFI engine. The inlet pipe hits the shock tower (suprise, suprise :nonono: ) Does anybody have a picture of how they addressed this problem.

I purchased a mandrel-bent 3" stainless 90-deg elbow, cut it in the middle, flipped the two ends and rewelded it to make a shallow "S" shape. That ducks it in enough to avoid the shock tower (see the linked thread). Connect the supercharger end with a silicone connector hose - if you need to adapt down a size, just buy a silicone adapter that does that. Connect the throttle body end with a 90-deg silicone elbow. I welded an outlet in for the bypass valve - exhaust pipe won't reliably take a thread that's strong enough. Try turbohoses.com for the silicone bits.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=610598
 
I purchased a mandrel-bent 3" stainless 90-deg elbow, cut it in the middle, flipped the two ends and rewelded it to make a shallow "S" shape. That ducks it in enough to avoid the shock tower (see the linked thread). Connect the supercharger end with a silicone connector hose - if you need to adapt down a size, just buy a silicone adapter that does that. Connect the throttle body end with a 90-deg silicone elbow. I welded an outlet in for the bypass valve - exhaust pipe won't reliably take a thread that's strong enough. Try turbohoses.com for the silicone bits.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=610598

It looks like that is the way I will go. It reduces the amount of silicon boots I will be using. I think I will add another 90* tube that goes to the throttle body. I like the design and it seems like a very simple solution. Thanks for the ideas guys.
 
With a vortech head unit, you can loosen all the bolts around the head unit and "re-clock" the outlet to be closer to the center of the engine also. You do not have to completely remove any of the bolts and it takes less than 5 minutes if the head unit is off the car.
 
I thought that as well but I was running into clearance problems with the oil supply line. the fitting would hit the bracket and not allow it to rotate to the next bolt. I guess I should look to see if the oil supply line has multipe entry points and I can just use another fitting. I don't recall it being that way though. I will have to check tonight.
 
I just called Vortech about your idea and they said that I don't rotate the supercharger but just the discharge part. He said that there is about 6 bolts to remove and just rotate the part that looks like a clam shell. Now I just have to make sure I don't have hood clearance problems. You may have just saved me a couple hundred bones. I owe you a Christimas card! :nice: Or should I just send you the money.:rlaugh:
 
I just called Vortech about your idea and they said that I don't rotate the supercharger but just the discharge part. He said that there is about 6 bolts to remove and just rotate the part that looks like a clam shell. Now I just have to make sure I don't have hood clearance problems. You may have just saved me a couple hundred bones. I owe you a Christimas card! :nice: Or should I just send you the money.:rlaugh:

FYI - this option would have made the discharge to high to close the hood on my '65 with the Paxton. I hope it works out for you, but check carefully before you assume the problem is solved.
 
I moved the discharge tube closer to the top and it just barely touches the hood on the silicon connectors. I just asked my wife for 1/2" drop Ron Morris motor mounts for Christmas. I think it would be fine as it is but I also have my throttle body just barely touching the hood (under the hood scoop) and this would correct both problems.
 
Glad to help.



I moved the discharge tube closer to the top and it just barely touches the hood on the silicon connectors. I just asked my wife for 1/2" drop Ron Morris motor mounts for Christmas. I think it would be fine as it is but I also have my throttle body just barely touching the hood (under the hood scoop) and this would correct both problems.
 
Here's a couple of shots that may help (note this is a first gen).
BTW, not my car, just one at a car show where a friend took pictures.

Good luck!

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Vortech-65.webp
 

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I got the inlet side done a couple minutes ago and I am pumped!! I ended up using a silicon 90* hose from the supercharger and connected that to a 90* 3.5" mandrel bend stainless pipe. I then connected the pipe to the MAF meter and the filter directly to that. I now have to take the stainless pipe to the muffler shop to have a bung welded on for the blow off valve. When the pipe is done I will polish it like the rest of the setup. Thanks for the help guys. It wouldn't have gone nearly as well as this I am sure.

I will have to make a couple other mods for the system to fit to my satisfaction. I am going to pull the oil pan off next and use a bulkhead AN fitting for the return oil line. I just didn't like the idea of taping my oil pan for the return line. I will also have to adjust the upper radiator hose connector so that it does a 90* and points to the center of the radiator. I need the additional space for the blower belt.

I am getting closer to bringing it to the tuner. I have an appointment for Jan 7th. It is hard to find time to work on the car. Two little ones and working 50 hours a week doesn't leave much time. I usually end up burning the midnight oil and then use the next couple days to recover only to repeat it all over again.
 
Sounds like some kick a$$ progress. I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures (once life settles down and you have time to post them).
Yeah, dead lines are tough, especially with family, and even more so during the holidays. I take it you are going to go with a custom chip?
I'm looking forward to getting a tweecer this spring.
One thing I found on the radiator, there is some major expansion of the aluminum radiators. The two row on my 90GT grows a good quarter inch at running temperature. So if you are running an aluminum radiator, I'd suggest giving yourself at least an extra 1/4" more clearance than what you think you need. My blower belt is very close to the upper hose clamp once things warm up. In fact I plan to move some wiring so I can lean the radiator top towards the grill a little more.

Saw the side view picture of your car on another forum. Looking good!