Rebuilding the 289

[theautomatics]

I'm new here, hello. Well I'm rebuilding my 289 which has 190 hp now. I'd like to have 350hp or better after the rebuild. In terms of cam size, heads, intake, carb, is it easy to get to my goal with a 289?

I'll probably convert it to a 302. I'm thinking of going with a holley 600 vac sec's, edelbrock performer rpm intake, (afr 165's, canfield 170's, TF twisted wedge heads with stud mounted rockers I cant decide!) Not sure on the cam size yet, but full headers, and 2.5" exhaust.

What else can I do to achieve my goal? Any suggestions would be great as this is the first engine I'll have rebuilt. This is just intended as a street car.

 

[coolblue65]

How much are you willing to spend?

By rebuild do you mean machining the block and new pistons as well? or just the top end?

 

[theautomatics]

Well see I'm unsure if the block is a 302 or an orignal 289. Either way if I can I may go the 331ci route. Willing to spend....... approx 5,000.

 

[coolblue65]

For 5k you can buy yourself a mild 331 or 347 with nice heads and have a solid performer with an EASY 350+HP, and if you shop for deals (i.e used intakes and such) you can get a 400HP no problem, and you can still upgrade later for more power when the desire hits.

 

[68RustBucket]

I'm in a similar boat as you right now, rebuilding my 289. The difference is that I'm keeping mine as a 289 (plus the .30 over bore, so 292).

- Machined the block
- new Keith Black hypereutectic pistons
- CompCams 282S solid cam/lifters
- AFR165 heads
- Weiand Stealth Intake
- 600cfm carb of some sort

I think its gonna be a real screamer. 350-400hp possibly. You can make your mark with the 289. You'll have a lot more torque, but a lower redline with the 331 or 347, as well as a somewhat shorter lifespan depending on quality of the build.

 

[danny clemens]

You've mentioned the basics parts and after that hp starts costing more. I would definately use roller rockers and you could use a roller cam but that's real expensive for a few extra hp unless you get a roller block.

 

[theautomatics]

For a 302, 1.7 roller rockers maybe? Stud mounted?

 

[hhead]

Depends on alot of components working together. I firmly believe, ANY stroker motor should be blueprinted. $$$ big part. If you get into blueprinting, some crate motors are hard to beat.
I believe ALL DSS blocks are balanced & blueprinted, but FMS are just off the line motors. NO blueprinting. So shop around.
check my garage for specs. exactly what you're looking for 340hp/340tq at the flywheel. Motor built over ten years ago. I've NEVER even so much as pulled my valve covers!
I've finally started going to the track, had it chassis dynoed. 290hp/320tq at the wheels!! I have A/C, P/S, stock fan clutch. And I hammer my motor. I wanted more power about six months of driving
So, research long and hard. I think for a crate motor, a DSS block is hard to beat!
edit: when I first engine dynoed it, he says, THIS is THE HARDEST your motor will ever run. I then proceeded to grin from ear to ear hearing my motor SCREAM!!!

 

[danny clemens]

For a 302, 1.7 roller rockers maybe? Stud mounted?

Definately stud mounted. The 1.7 or 1.6 would work but either would have to match your cam.

 

[65fastbackresto]

5k is about what I have in my motor

302 bored .30 over
10 to 1 comp hypertech pistons
Edelbrock performer rpm heads
and intake
cam is not huge, around 492 lift, 288 dur, LSA 109
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
1.6 roller rockers
Patriot try y`s (I think they kinda suck though)
MSD 6AL ign box and dist

To be honest, I dont know how much hp I really have, but I`ve had 3 people in the car in a row scream like a baby wanting out, and I only flogged on it thru 2nd gear in a staight line, but its FAST. It`ll pin you to the seat for sure.

 

[hhead]

Depends on alot of components working together. I firmly believe, ANY stroker motor should be blueprinted. $$$ big part. If you get into blueprinting, some crate motors are hard to beat.
I believe ALL DSS blocks are balanced & blueprinted, but FMS are just off the line motors. NO blueprinting. So shop around.
check my garage for specs. exactly what you're looking for 340hp/340tq at the flywheel. Motor built over ten years ago. I've NEVER even so much as pulled my valve covers!
I've finally started going to the track, had it chassis dynoed. 290hp/320tq at the wheels!! I have A/C, P/S, stock fan clutch. And I hammer my motor. I wanted more power about six months of driving
So, research long and hard. I think for a crate motor, a DSS block is hard to beat!
edit: when I first engine dynoed it, he says, THIS is THE HARDEST your motor will ever run. I then proceeded to grin from ear to ear hearing my motor SCREAM!!!

You know what was really the crazy part. Shutdown at 6K. Screaaming then silence. WILD!! My first time seeing a dyno. I got to think, it might even been longer than ten years. I think DSS had just started advertising in the mags when I already had my motor..... Memory, first thing to go.

 

[D.Hearne]

$5000? I've got about $500 less in my 331. Shortblock cost me about $1500 to build, $1500 in the Canfield heads, $1100 in the 3x2 induction. Ran high 13's in my 3600 lb 89 Ranger. So far in the 77 Comet, it's gone 13.16@106, still more to come in that with 2 sec. 60' times and shifting at 5500 instead of 6500. 6 passes total in the Comet.

 

[jcp123]

For what it's worth, I have Engine Analyzer 3.0. Send me the specs on what you're thinking about tossing in there and I can run it through there. It's looked to be pretty accurate so far. If you like, I put together a ~265hp 302 build on the program trying to keep a good, wide torqueband. I can give you the specs on it (though it'd require a custom ground cam on a 302 roller block). If nothing else, it'd be food for thought.

 

[theautomatics]

Thanks guys. I sent the specs to jcp123.

so 1.6 roller rockers for a cam at 492 lift, 288 duration. For those running 1.7RR's, what size cam is fitting? I'm looking for more low end power over a high rpm band. Should i just stick with a mild or medium cam with 1.6rr's? what are the advantages of having a roller cam over a flat?

 

[D.Hearne]

Going roller in a 289 block is going to cost you more than it's worth. Best to start with a roller block. Using 1.7's over 1.6's nets you about .030 more lift at the valve. And slightly more power, but not enough to feel in the seat of the pants meter. Sounds to me like you'd prefer an "RV" type cam grind. Those give you good bottom end, some more in midrange. Look for something with a 204/214 duration @.050 and not more than .500-.525 lift. And if you're going to stay with the stock heads with pressed in studs, stay clear of those with the newer more aggressive profiles like Comp Cams "XE" series. They'll pull the studs out for you.

 

[coolblue65]

Why do you want more low end? early Mustangs are already traction challenged as it is. What are your goals for the car?

 

[theautomatics]

Out of a 302, my goal is light to light 0-80 mph in a city like setting. My 3.89 gears will hurt my traction too. But I am using drag radials and I have locking differential.

 

[ratio411]

Out of a 302, my goal is light to light 0-80 mph in a city like setting. My 3.89 gears will hurt my traction too. But I am using drag radials and I have locking differential.

Just a heads up... I ran 4.11 gears (not too far from 3.89) behind a lower rpm powerband and it drove like a dumptruck.
With that much gear, your engine has to be able to make power higher in the rpm band, and it should be able to rev fast too.
Otherwise you are just making alot of noise and shifting all the time.
My experience anyway. That was with a 351c.

 

[Edster]

Another substitute for a roller cam is Rhodes lifters. They're a bleed down type. They are for a lack of a better explanation variable valve timing lifters. They've been around for at least 25 years, long before the VVT term. I'm looking at getting a set in the near future to give me a little more low end.