I took the front disk brake assembly off of a 76 (I think) granada at a junk yard about 10 years ago and they have been sitting in my garage ever since. I am getting ready to clean them up and install on my 67 fb. I do not remember if they came off a power brake car or not. Does it make a difference if they were power or not? Is the booster the only difference between power and manual? Thx
granada swap info needed
- Thread starter mikec35
- Start date
Manual disc master cylinder is different. You do not have to use a power booster. I didn't way back when I did a drum to disc swap on a 67 fb. Went from 4 drums to 4 discs with 71-73 Stang fronts and a Versailles rear. I used a 71 Ford Custom manual master cylinder w/o power assist. This one had a 1-1/8 bore.
I'm going to guess that since you are puting Granada brakes on your car that you have drums on your car now and not the 4 piston K/H calipers. If this is the case then you should not use the MC you have in there right now. The residual pressure valve built into the MC will cause the brakes to drag all the time.
I guess I could go to the auto parts store and get a master cylinder from the same year granada. Will it bolt up without any modification? I know I will probably have to bend the lines. While I am at it and my engine is out of the car how difficult/expensive is it to convert to power brakes? Any suggestions for a reasonably priced booster/cylinder set up? thx
ultrastang
Founding Member
I did the same swap on my '68 back in 1990 with wrecking yard parts. After the cost of the Granada junkers and then buying all the new parts to rebuild them with, I had ~$650-$700 dollars tied up in it.
A few years ago, a company called CSRP in Austin, TX began reproducing the Granada front disc brake assemblies with all brand new spindles, calipers, etc. Their entire setup is ~ $550 dollars complete.
I would figure up the expense of everything it would cost to get the wrecking yard Granada parts you have back to as-new condition. If it's half or more of the cost of a completely new setup, it would make better sence to buy new. --if for no other reason than your spindles are 32 years old and the ones from CSRP are brand new.
If you do decide to use what you have, it would be a smart move to take the spindles to a machine shop and have them magnaflux-checked for cracks prior to installing them.
What you get in the CSRP kit:
http://www.discbrakeswap.com/image/Granada parts and kit 002 KIT WEB VIEW 80 percent.JPG
CSRP's website:
http://www.discbrakeswap.com
chepsk8
Founding Member
Don't forget the difference in Outer Tie Rod end sizes and tapers, as well as the larger hub diameter.
I did the conversion on my 69 'Vert. I also upped to a Master-Power booster. Prop valve came from the Granada. Worked perfect, thought the Granada Caliper does go "Clunk" on occasion.
I did the conversion on my 69 'Vert. I also upped to a Master-Power booster. Prop valve came from the Granada. Worked perfect, thought the Granada Caliper does go "Clunk" on occasion.
Under what conditions do you get this "clunk"? I get one in my 69 Cougar with Granada brakes sometimes under hard cornering.
chepsk8
Founding Member
It's the way the calipers are mounted. They move a little during braking & backing, so you get the noise. Harmless.
Decurion
Member
Or if youre missing the anti-rattle hardware like me. Either way, still harmless, if annoying as hell.
