I'm getting ready to put Fox Lake stage 2 heads on my car, and I want to make sure I have all my bases covered.
I'll be referencing this thread, this thread, and my Haynes manual for some misc. info as needed.
The general plan is to remove and reinstall the engine with the transmission and Hooker long-tube headers attached. I'm assuming this is possible, so please let me know if it is not.
Supplies (Am I missing anything?):
- I have all tools I could possibly need, including in./lb. and ft./lb. torque wrenches, harmonic balancer puller, etc.
- 2 Oil changes.
- 4 quarts Mobil 1 ATF (I plan on draining the transmission because it'll be tilted back while removing from the car and still attached to the engine.
- Coolant
- Assembly lube (I plan on using 50 weight oil.)
- RTV (I plan on using copper for everything unless someone can give me a compelling reason to use a different variety.)
- Lacquer thinner (to clean off ARP stuff before installing.)
- Brake cleaner (to clean off engine block where head gaskets seal)
- Ziploc Bags and Sharpie to label bolts and such.
- ARP head studs, nuts, washers, and lube (256-4201)
- Head gaskets (Ford 4C2Z-6051-BA left & 4C2Z-6051-AA right)
- Heads - (I will be reusing my VT Stage 2 NA cams, and keeping stock cam gears.)
- I already have ARP harmonic balancer/cam bolts from cam swap.
- I already have new-ish timing chains from cam swap @ about 90k miles.
- Crank pulley install bolt.
- Anti-seize for spark plug threads.
Disassembly:
- Support car on ramps or jack stands.
- Disconnect battery
- Disconnect all electrical connections to engine and transmission.
- Disconnect clutch cable.
- Disconnect headers from X-Pipe.
- Disconnect fuel and vacuum lines from engine.
- Break harmonic balancer bolt loose.
- Remove serpentine belt.
- Drain transmission, engine oil, and radiator.
- Remove shifter.
- Remove driveshaft.
- Unbolt intake manifold from heads and remove with upper intake and injectors still installed.
- Attach engine hoist to ears at back of block and to studs at the front.
- Remove transmission mount.
- Detach steering shaft from rack.
- Unbolt A/C compressor and zip-tie to K-member or sway bar.
- Unbolt power steering pump and reservoir and zip-tie out of the way.
- Unbolt motor mounts from K-member.
- Remove engine & transmission from vehicle by lifting upwards and forward. (If necessary, remove headers first by dropping the K-member. If necessary, unbolt transmission from bellhousing and remove.)
- Rest engine on floor with boards supporting weight under transmission, bellhousing, and oil pan.
- Drain coolant from block.
- Remove spark plugs. (They only have 15k miles, so I plan to reuse and check to make sure gap is still good: 0.048" - 0.050")
- Remove headers, if not removed earlier.
- Remove harmonic balancer and set crank in safe mode (Keyway at 9 or 12 o'clock).
- Remove value covers.
- Remove timing chain cover, being careful not to damage gaskets.
- Remove timing chain tensioners.
- Remove timing assembly.
- Remove cams and gears, making sure my Romeo caps stay matched to their original positions.
- (For first-time use of ARP studs.) With stock heads and gaskets still in place, lube and install ARP studs, washers, and nuts. Torque head studs to 30, 60, then 90 ft.-lbs. Loosen and repeat 5 times. (This is done on old heads and gaskets to prevent unnecessary repeated compression of the new head gaskets.)
- Remove stock PI heads.
- Gently clean engine block-side gasket surfaces with brake cleaner.
Reassembly:
- Lube, install, and finger-tighten ARP head studs into block.
- Place head gaskets.
- Make sure heads have appropriate oil holes plugged or not.
- Place heads.
- Lube, install, and finger-tighten head stud washers and nuts.
- Torque head studs to 30, 60, then 90 ft.-lbs. Sequence per side:
7-3-1-5-9
10-6-2-4-8
- Place followers in heads.
- Make sure crank is still in safe mode (Keyway at 9 or 12 o'clock).
- Install cams and retainer caps. Tighten cam retainer bolts to 71-106 inch-pounds.
- Torque cam sprocket bolts to 95 ft.-lbs.
- (Too tired to finish this now, but the rest is basically the reverse of above.)
Please let me know if there's anything important I'm missing. I will update this original post as I get all the info I need.
With these heads (which include high-load Comp valve springs), the stock shortblock, and the mods listed in the link in my signature, how fast can I reliably spin the engine naturally-aspirated? I regularly tap my 6,500 RPM rev limiter with my current setup. I've heard a number of people say that 7,000 RPM is fine without a power adder.
I'll be referencing this thread, this thread, and my Haynes manual for some misc. info as needed.
The general plan is to remove and reinstall the engine with the transmission and Hooker long-tube headers attached. I'm assuming this is possible, so please let me know if it is not.
Supplies (Am I missing anything?):
- I have all tools I could possibly need, including in./lb. and ft./lb. torque wrenches, harmonic balancer puller, etc.
- 2 Oil changes.
- 4 quarts Mobil 1 ATF (I plan on draining the transmission because it'll be tilted back while removing from the car and still attached to the engine.
- Coolant
- Assembly lube (I plan on using 50 weight oil.)
- RTV (I plan on using copper for everything unless someone can give me a compelling reason to use a different variety.)
- Lacquer thinner (to clean off ARP stuff before installing.)
- Brake cleaner (to clean off engine block where head gaskets seal)
- Ziploc Bags and Sharpie to label bolts and such.
- ARP head studs, nuts, washers, and lube (256-4201)
- Head gaskets (Ford 4C2Z-6051-BA left & 4C2Z-6051-AA right)
- Heads - (I will be reusing my VT Stage 2 NA cams, and keeping stock cam gears.)
- I already have ARP harmonic balancer/cam bolts from cam swap.
- I already have new-ish timing chains from cam swap @ about 90k miles.
- Crank pulley install bolt.
- Anti-seize for spark plug threads.
Disassembly:
- Support car on ramps or jack stands.
- Disconnect battery
- Disconnect all electrical connections to engine and transmission.
- Disconnect clutch cable.
- Disconnect headers from X-Pipe.
- Disconnect fuel and vacuum lines from engine.
- Break harmonic balancer bolt loose.
- Remove serpentine belt.
- Drain transmission, engine oil, and radiator.
- Remove shifter.
- Remove driveshaft.
- Unbolt intake manifold from heads and remove with upper intake and injectors still installed.
- Attach engine hoist to ears at back of block and to studs at the front.
- Remove transmission mount.
- Detach steering shaft from rack.
- Unbolt A/C compressor and zip-tie to K-member or sway bar.
- Unbolt power steering pump and reservoir and zip-tie out of the way.
- Unbolt motor mounts from K-member.
- Remove engine & transmission from vehicle by lifting upwards and forward. (If necessary, remove headers first by dropping the K-member. If necessary, unbolt transmission from bellhousing and remove.)
- Rest engine on floor with boards supporting weight under transmission, bellhousing, and oil pan.
- Drain coolant from block.
- Remove spark plugs. (They only have 15k miles, so I plan to reuse and check to make sure gap is still good: 0.048" - 0.050")
- Remove headers, if not removed earlier.
- Remove harmonic balancer and set crank in safe mode (Keyway at 9 or 12 o'clock).
- Remove value covers.
- Remove timing chain cover, being careful not to damage gaskets.
- Remove timing chain tensioners.
- Remove timing assembly.
- Remove cams and gears, making sure my Romeo caps stay matched to their original positions.
- (For first-time use of ARP studs.) With stock heads and gaskets still in place, lube and install ARP studs, washers, and nuts. Torque head studs to 30, 60, then 90 ft.-lbs. Loosen and repeat 5 times. (This is done on old heads and gaskets to prevent unnecessary repeated compression of the new head gaskets.)
- Remove stock PI heads.
- Gently clean engine block-side gasket surfaces with brake cleaner.
Reassembly:
- Lube, install, and finger-tighten ARP head studs into block.
- Place head gaskets.
- Make sure heads have appropriate oil holes plugged or not.
- Place heads.
- Lube, install, and finger-tighten head stud washers and nuts.
- Torque head studs to 30, 60, then 90 ft.-lbs. Sequence per side:
7-3-1-5-9
10-6-2-4-8
- Place followers in heads.
- Make sure crank is still in safe mode (Keyway at 9 or 12 o'clock).
- Install cams and retainer caps. Tighten cam retainer bolts to 71-106 inch-pounds.
- Torque cam sprocket bolts to 95 ft.-lbs.
- (Too tired to finish this now, but the rest is basically the reverse of above.)
Please let me know if there's anything important I'm missing. I will update this original post as I get all the info I need.
With these heads (which include high-load Comp valve springs), the stock shortblock, and the mods listed in the link in my signature, how fast can I reliably spin the engine naturally-aspirated? I regularly tap my 6,500 RPM rev limiter with my current setup. I've heard a number of people say that 7,000 RPM is fine without a power adder.