Battery Relocation Kit Questions

[94GTLaserRC]

Ok guys, after reading all your replies and some other research...I got it almost figured out. I will NOT do the cutoff for now. I just want to get it hooked up, safe and working. The only thing Im not sure of are the following:

1. Where do the ring terminals get attached, and/or what are they connected to? If the box is sealed, you dont see them anyway right?

2. The 2ga wire kits are less money. Are those ok or is it a "must" to get the 1ga.

3. The Red and black boxes say "race legal" if fastened. Are they any "worse" then the the aluminum or is it just for looks? Im about "show" but not so much in the trunk. I would like to order this stuff tomorrow so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
RC

 

[95cbr331]

you run your trunk power power wire to the starter..so there is one ring terminal.
you can keep your stock alternator wire and the stock wire going to the starter from the fusebox so you have power at the fuse box. this eliminates some ring terminals
then your going to need one to attach to the timing cover in the stock location. then another to attach the timing cover ground where you choose.

those are a few

 

[urban96]

the ring terminals are used where the wire ends and you want to connect it to something

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Thanks guys...you have a link for those, how many I need, and the size or P/N?

Thanks
RC

 

[Redsnk95]

R/C when you are ready to do this let me know. I have been through the bugs and tested many ways to do this. Shoot me an email when you are ready to do it the correct way with a cutoff switch and I will let you know all you need to know.

[email protected]

troy

 

[94GTLaserRC]

I was looking into getting this kit REALLY soon from Summit....Can somebody tell me the difference between Battery cable and welding cable, both from a 'definition' standpoint and application/purpost standpoint?

Thanks
RC

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Still looking for an answer to above, PLUS, When Im ready to order, do I "NEED" to get the kit with 240" of positive cable, or is the 192" ones long enough?
Thanks
RC

 

[wytstang]

Welding cable is MUCH easier to work with, as its much more pliable, yet, it conducts elec. better, b/c it has more strands of wire.

Heres an old write up you can use for reference
http://www.superstallions.com/tech/elect/bat_relocate/bat_relocate.html
One with pictures
http://www.yellowmustangregistry.com/UPR.html
Good luck.

 

[chaos254]

I plan on getting the taylor kit. I'll still need to purchase more welding cable to run to the distribution box. I'm going to get the switch because I'd rather do it all at once then have to re-wire it. The switch is only around ~35. This is the diagram I will be using, it is a little different than the one posted earlier.

 

[hollywoodstang]

RC if you do not race regularly why do you want the battery in the trunk?

 

[94GTLaserRC]

RC if you do not race regularly why do you want the battery in the trunk?

Couple fold:

1. I "may" race one day....and Im already redoing the ENTIRE engine bay.

2. I want to free up more space in the engine bay for a nicer look.

3. I still will need more traction even on the road, with 500HP and 373's

4. I may put a Snow Meth Inj kit soon. The battery spot will be a good location for that.

RC

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Well....going back to the earlier posts I DID FIND The statement about the welding cable...I think I will get this, but the only question left is do I need the full 20' length or can I do with the 192" cable (16').?

Thanks
RC

 

[urban96]

go with more, better to have extra than not enough

 

[94GTLaserRC]

go with more, better to have extra than not enough

It's just the kit I want with the AL box has 16' of welding wire.. The plastic boxes have 20' of wire, but it's a plastic box and it's "battery cable".

RC

 

[95BlueStallion]

go with more, better to have extra than not enough

Ding Ding Ding, what do we have the for the winner Johnny?! I went out and bought 1/0 cable to run like the above diagram from the switch on the trunk to the fuse box post under the hood. I went with 15' and was about 3.5' too short. Get 20' to go to the fuse box, and then another 20' to go to the alternator. You might have a little left over, but better than being short. I tried to solder on another 4' to my short 1/0 cable and it did not work worth a damn. Ended up going and buying a new 20' cable and was S.O.L. on returning the original 15' section (even with the dirty soldered end cut off)...

P.S. I grounded the battery to the frame directly, using a bolt off a useless bracket. There are brackets under the rear end of the car, and you can remove them and make use of one of the bolts (just grind the frame to bare metal). So far so good with no ground issues...

P.P.S. I ended up using 2/0 wire (not welding wire), and have had no troubles with current flow. Car starts perfect, and battery gauge stays up high even while idling. Hope any of this rambling helps a little bit. It seemed like you had a lot of questions in the beginning of the post.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

As I said though...the kits with welding cable are only 16'. I would like to get 1/0 weld cable. That SHEET is like $2/ft or more everywhere you look.. Im not doing a switch just yet, so Im just trying to see if I can get away with 16'...or maybe I can get Summit to upgrade it to 20..

THANKS
RC