Correct way to remove struts?

mavmavv

New Member
Nov 21, 2007
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I recently replaced my blown rear shocks and now I need to do the struts.

Last time I tried to mess with my struts I couldnt get them out, the large bolts that hold in the strut at the bottom wouldnt come out without removing the brake line. I dont believe thats supposed to be needed.

What is the correct way to remove them?
 
im a little surprised at the brake line comment. i just did my 5 lug swap and had to remove my struts to torque the spindle-to-BJ bolt, and though the brake lines were removed to put newer ones on, im surprised you say you cant get yours off without removing your lines. just off the top of my head, i thought there'd be enough room. i used a 1/2" drive socket and a huge 4 foot pipe i had laying around to extend my lever arm length. the break-away torque needed to get those 2 on bottom off is ridiculous! Maybe take a pic?
 
I just did my struts about 2 months ago to replace the factory unit's and I can tell you the bottom strut attachment bolts are hard to remove. In my case I own a big air compressor and have a heavy duty impact wrench to get those bolts out but when I did my buddies 'vert a few years ago I used a 1/2 drive socket wrench and a long pipe for a breaker bar. You do not need to remove the brake lines but you will have to remove the brake calliper and let it hang to the side out of the way.
 
Yep

I just did my struts about 2 months ago to replace the factory unit's and I can tell you the bottom strut attachment bolts are hard to remove. In my case I own a big air compressor and have a heavy duty impact wrench to get those bolts out but when I did my buddies 'vert a few years ago I used a 1/2 drive socket wrench and a long pipe for a breaker bar. You do not need to remove the brake lines but you will have to remove the brake calliper and let it hang to the side out of the way.

This is how I did it. I used a breaker bar, didnt use a pipe at all and I used a coat hanger to suspend the caliper, you don't want it hanging by the break line.
 
This is how I did it. I used a breaker bar, didnt use a pipe at all and I used a coat hanger to suspend the caliper, you don't want it hanging by the break line.

+1

I have also needed to do the heat-and-spray trick on stubborn bolts with PB Blaster and a propane torch, and then getting on it with a hearty wrench and beating it with a fat honkin' deadblow hammer.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and obviously make sure you're supporting the lower control arm with something before you go removing the strut, so you don't have the spring suddenly come shooting out of there and taking your head off. :eek:
 
I always do mine with pb blaster and 2 big wrenches. one wrench will hold the nut or bolt in place so it dosent spin and i stomp down with my foot on the other to break it loose works everytime. However the blakelines shouldnt even be an issue here.
 
when I just changed my springs I did take off the caliper and hung it aside to make extra room.

Then I took my 1/2 drive ratchet with a pipe on the end to break them loose.
I did soak in PB the day before. I then put a wrench on the tighter area nut side and
zipped them out with my air gun.
 
I pulled the calipers and then heated up the bolts with a torch since they have loctite on them, or are supposed to anyways, and then used a 1/2" ratchet and popped them loose. No problems with the brake hose here.