Dash Speaker Replacement

[LaserSVT]

i highly recommend Crutchfield as a retailer for all car audio gear. they have an excellent website (Crutchfield: LCD TV, Car Audio, Home Theater, Speakers, Plasma TV) and their customer service is second-to-none.

Every once in a while Crutchfield will have a better deal on something but for the most part they dont. If I would of bought my deck from them then it would have cost more then the deck/components/coaxials/sub/amp/box/wires that I purchased elseware. I scored my components for under $150 new and on Crutchfield they were $500.
Crutchfield does have first rate customer service

 

[S&B]

ebay is the place for car audio

 

[strtrcr50]

On an unrelated topic, you ever try a sony mobile xes head unit/processors? There's something I'd like to find where I was sure it was going to work.

 

[LaserSVT]

On an unrelated topic, you ever try a sony mobile xes head unit/processors? There's something I'd like to find where I was sure it was going to work.

Yeah, I have installed two of the complete packages with the ribon tweeters and matched subs. One of the smoothest systems I ever heard but not very loud. The same week I installed one in a Camaro SS I also installed a Pioneer ODR system with McIntosh amps and all Infinity Beta speakers in a Mustang Cobra. The systems were both just under $20,000 but the Cobras system sounded a little better with deeper bass but it was 18db louder.

 

[S&B]

20K system, thats retarded

 

[LaserSVT]

20K system, thats retarded

Saw a system once in an 89 Accord (this was in 98-99) where the sub box rotated to fire backwards for rap/hip hop and fire foreward for rock music. Was really trick. Anyway I overhear him say he had just over $27,000 in the stereo. The guy asks him why he spent 27K on the stereo and he goes "Cause I aint en have $37,000"

 

[strtrcr50]

Yeah, I have installed two of the complete packages with the ribon tweeters and matched subs. One of the smoothest systems I ever heard but not very loud. The same week I installed one in a Camaro SS I also installed a Pioneer ODR system with McIntosh amps and all Infinity Beta speakers in a Mustang Cobra. The systems were both just under $20,000 but the Cobras system sounded a little better with deeper bass but it was 18db louder.

One of my installers had one in his car. I was quite impressed.

 

[LaserSVT]

One of my installers had one in his car. I was quite impressed.

Oh they are killer. I would love to have the processor/deck/changer and run my own amps. The Sony amps were clean as hell but only 50 watts. The 31 band eq in the deck sure was nice and the copper chasis was a nice touch.

The ribon tweeters sounded identical to the old Kappa Emit Ribbons and to this day I have never heard a better tweeter then those. Just the most crisp clear tweaters ever built. Wisj they syill made them

 

[strtrcr50]

IIRC, he was not running sony amps. I wish I could remember the model of my old head unit. It too had the copper casing. It was the replacement for the eclipse 5506?

 

[LaserSVT]

IIRC, he was not running sony amps. I wish I could remember the model of my old head unit. It too had the copper casing. It was the replacement for the eclipse 5506?

55060

 

[tim281]

That boston speaker is a beast, probably out of my league...I am just getting started!
I think I will start out with the JL 8" and the Rockford Amp. If the JL 8" is rated at 250RMS and 500 Peak, would the Rockford P200-2 be enough. P200-2 looks like the bridged RMS is 200W @ 4ohms? The P400-2 bridges to 400RMS...is that too much amp for the speaker?

 

[strtrcr50]

55060

I want to say it was one step up from the 5506/55060. This would have been in the late 90's/early 2000's.

 

[LaserSVT]

That boston speaker is a beast, probably out of my league...I am just getting started!
I think I will start out with the JL 8" and the Rockford Amp. If the JL 8" is rated at 250RMS and 500 Peak, would the Rockford P200-2 be enough. P200-2 looks like the bridged RMS is 200W @ 4ohms? The P400-2 bridges to 400RMS...is that too much amp for the speaker?

The 300-2 or 400-2 is just fine. A 200-2 will give you close to 250 when bridges but people more often blow up their sub with too little power then too much. Clipping is the subs worst enemy.
Also, the lower level Rockford does not include the remote bass control and with an 8" sub you are going to really want that. That way you can have your bass level from the deck be turned down a bit so the door speakers don't over work themselves and you have a quick bass adjustment. If you listen to rock AND rap/hippity hoppity then you can easily boost the bass for rock and turn it down so you don't blow the sub when listening to music with allot of bass.

I want to say it was one step up from the 5506/55060. This would have been in the late 90's/early 2000's.

The very next series from the four digits were the same model numbers with a 0 added on the end. around 2005 they went back to the 4 digits but with letters too. My current Eclipse deck is the AVN-5510/52D.

 

[tim281]

Thanks for the info. It makes sense that you want to make sure you have enough power..

 

[strtrcr50]

Thanks for the info. It makes sense that you want to make sure you have enough power..

Believe it or not, you won't over power a sub...

 

[90blacknight]

ebay is the place for car audio

Not for used amps it isn't!!! You're better off finding one locally. Most, and I said most not all, used amps on ebay have had every joe hackjob shoemaker have a go at repairing them. I've bought quite a few amps on ebay and ALL had had work done at some point or another. Plus, used amps, the good ones at least, are going for quite a premium on ebay these days I find. I've had much better luck buying locally, for price and reliability. You should see some of the hackjobs I've come across from fleabay.

 

[LaserSVT]

Not for used amps it isn't!!! You're better off finding one locally. Most, and I said most not all, used amps on ebay have had every joe hackjob shoemaker have a go at repairing them. I've bought quite a few amps on ebay and ALL had had work done at some point or another. Plus, used amps, the good ones at least, are going for quite a premium on ebay these days I find. I've had much better luck buying locally, for price and reliability. You should see some of the hackjobs I've come across from fleabay.

My Xtant 3300c (first gen) I got for $175 shipped and it was over $1200 new. The guy even installed all new caps and cooling system in it for free. The amp kicks ass and runs just like new even though the amp is 15+ years old.
Before that I bought two old school Rockford amps for $40 shipped each. One was a 400w mono block and the other was a 100w 2 channel. They worked excellent with no issues untill I sold them. Before that I scored a Butler Tube Driver for $60 shipped and it worked perfectly as well.

When you buy you HAVE to look at the guys feedback. I wont buy from someone that has less then 100 feedbacks as a seller and has to have an approval rating over 98% positive. Those are the people that take care and dont sell junk.
If you are looking at a JL amp for $100 from a dude that has a feedback of 20 and a 88% positve score then walk away cause the amp prolly has issues. Just have to know how to read the ebay system to find the right deal.

 

[90blacknight]

I still recommend staying away from ebay. Example, I bought an older fosgate 5 channel amp off a very reputable seller. Amp was working just as described. Amp worked for two years because I never bothered to hook up the subwoofer channel to a sub. Hooked it up and it lasted 2 days. It seems the sub output had been previously repaired with the wrong parts. I know this because I had a local fosgate guru tech look at it. Now, it's very likely the seller had no idea of the whole history of the amp. Just because an amp is currently working does in no way tell the whole story. Buying used amps is very hit and miss. Best thing you can do is try to find one with the warranty seals still intact or buy from the ORIGINAL owner, who might know it's entire history.