427w carbed: done

[cody50]

I just finished putting a carbed 427w in my 94. There are quite a few threads out there regarding both the windsor swap and the carb swap. However I didn't find all the info I wanted before I started so I thought I might try to help. Heres the specs

ford block- machined
427c.i. 10.7:1 coast high stroker kit
balanced to my flywheel and balancer
RHS 215cc heads
port matched to intake and exhaust gaskets
Vic. Jr intake- port matched
Comp extreme solid roller
.621 lift 254 duration @.050
MSD 85805 dist. mallory digital box
Canton pan and windage tray
Holly gerotor pump
sumped factory fuel tank
Mac 1 3/4" chrome longtubes 3" collectors
dumps then flowmaster "catback"
edelbrock 750 for now...

already done- tubular k-member, manual brakes, subframes, rollbar w/ harnesses, centerforce clutch, 4:10 gears, line lock, front lowering springs,

No dyno or track numbers yet, but it feels a whole lot stronger than my old 347efi.
ANY QUESTIONS?

 

[Pokageek]

Nice. my guess 500rw

 

[cody50]

here are some pictures of it. I love the lack of wiring under the hood now.
included are pictures of where my fuse box and CCRM are now, the fuel pump and sump, where I had to trim my hood to get the air cleaner to fit.

 

[cody50]

nm

i guess i ran out of room... so this is all i got

 

[Rookie71]

My guess is around 460rwhp

 

[cody50]

My guess is the tranny explodes before it gets to its peak hp on the dyno, but I would be very happy with 460rwhp especially with that little 750edy on there. The comp cams desktop dyno estimated it at 650hp and 610tq on te motor, but that seems like a bit much.

 

[cody50]

more info

Coast High stroker kit- $1050
Summit balancer- $80
Centerforce clutch-$260
RHS 215cc heads- $1100
Used Vic Jr intake- $140
Billit timing chain- $110
Used crane rockers- $80
Gaskets- $175
Trunk battery box- $80
Random electrical- $50
Block and machine work- $700
(includes notching cylinders)
Solid motor mounts- Maximum Motorsports $55
2 core radiator - eBay - $175
Fuel Lines and pumps- $350
Sump tank- $30
Mac headers- $370
Header dumps- $50
ARP bolts $110
Canton pan,, pump tray- $360
Main girdle- trick flow- $160
Comp valves, retainers, locks- $240
Comp reduced base circle cam- $370
(normal cam hit connecting rods)
Mallory digital ignition- 250
MSD 85805 dist- $260
Used solid roller lifters- $100
Chromemoly pushrods- $80

Things to do:
I removed the fenders so as not to scratch them also made hiding wires a lot easier. I painted while I was at it too. You can mount the CCRM on the inside of the fender well. I ran a switch to pin 17 to turn my fan on, and I ran a power to the green and yellow wire to turn on the fuel pump. With this done it runs any time the key is on so I used another switch to disconnect the ground of my fuel pump so I can turn it off too.
The engine fuse box is mounted on the inside of the other fender well. I lengthened the alternator wires ran them through the bumper support and out the hole the air filter used to get air from so they didn’t go across the engine compartment. The alternator main wire, the battery wire and the starter wire all junction together near the fuse box.
The entire efi harness went away, I just matched up what wire went to the coolant sensor and oil pressure sensor and reconnected them on the back side of the plug. Right now I’m still missing my tach, haven’t really looked into it (any suggestions).
I used a plasma cutter to make swiss cheese of the bumper reinforcement, it now weighs much less, but still gives the bumper cover rigidity. As you can see the hood I have needed some trimming to fit with the air cleaner, but I think it worked out all right. I got a cheap overflow tank to get rid of the ugly piece of plastic one.
I flipped the tensioner around backwards in order to remove the smog pump and AC. Don’t know if this is recommended by anyone, but it seems to be working. I had to grind down the aluminum bracket a bit to get the range of travel I wanted.
A guy in town formed the sump for the tank and bravely welded it on for me. We ran water through the tank for a long long time.
Timing is set at 18 degrees at idle and quickly goes to 38. Timing chain cover and water pump and everything all worked from my 302.
ANYTHING ELSE YOU WANT TO KNOW?

 

[Pokageek]

You are running a bigger cam and heads than me and I made it above 450rwhp. Plus carbs make more HP. Not much but a couple more.

Why a t-5? grenade.

 

[cody50]

I ran out of money before I could get to replacing the trans. I"ll replace it when it does brake. I am a fan of carbs because of the intake advantage. I can see the intake valve with the intake on, try that with an efi intake.

 

[earleys94gt]

Sounds like a cool project, should be a fun car to run.

And some people think a carb swap is a waste of time...

 

[427_LX]

ANY QUESTIONS?

Wgat wires did you connect to for the MSD? I have a `94 that I am sticking a carbed 5.0 into for now, until I decide whether I want to put my 351C or 351W roller motor in. My 351C is pretty nasty, and would be fun to drive, but still debating on it..
Do I need to keep the computer in it to operate the speedo? If not, it will be gone, if so, I guess it will have to stay for now. I will be having to figure out the fans as well...Any help there? Thanks in advance....

 

[revhead347]

Nice setup, I bet it hauls ass.

Kurt

 

[cody50]

wiring

definately hauls ass when the tires grip. As for the MSD, I used an aftermarket (MSD) dist. as well from there it was just following the wiring diagram. connect the two wires from the distbributor to the box, get power and ground, and then connect to the coil. I used the factory coil. It was really simple. I left the factory computer and the speedo works. So did the fuel and amps. Had to re-run the coolant and oil wires back to the harness in the passenger fender. The computer controls the fans too. I put the fans on a switch so i can turn them on right away, and i am using an aftermarket tach

 

[revhead347]

I ran out of money before I could get to replacing the trans. I"ll replace it when it does brake. I am a fan of carbs because of the intake advantage. I can see the intake valve with the intake on, try that with an efi intake.

Might want to go ahead and replace that Centerforce when you change the transmission, there is no way that is going to hold up.

I've heard good things about the RHS 215cc heads.

Kurt

 

[302GTS]

Might want to go ahead and replace that Centerforce when you change the transmission, there is no way that is going to hold up.

Kurt

Guy around here is running a 427 in his Fox. He has a Centerforce in it and, after only a couple passes at the strip it's already not doing so hot.

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, I had a Centerforce with the engine I have now. It was the first clutch I put in it. I really liked the Centerforce I had in my MR2 so I gave it a shot in the Mustang. It made it 3 passes at the track, and it came out in a pile of dust. I had to tow the car home. The Centerforce uses a stock pressure plate to keep things cheap. Anyway, it will get by on street tires. When you put a better transmission in it, you're going to want one with a 26 spline input shaft, so you're going to have to put a new clutch in anyway.

Kurt

 

[302GTS]

Yeah, I had a Centerforce with the engine I have now. It was the first clutch I put in it. I really liked the Centerforce I had in my MR2 so I gave it a shot in the Mustang. It made it 3 passes at the track, and it came out in a pile of dust. I had to tow the car home. The Centerforce uses a stock pressure plate to keep things cheap. Anyway, it will get by on street tires. When you put a better transmission in it, you're going to want one with a 26 spline input shaft, so you're going to have to put a new clutch in anyway.

Kurt

Funny you mention the stock pressure plate thing. Do they happen to do that on all their clutches, for all cars?

Reason I say that, is because a friend of mine has a TT swapped 300zx, and the Centerforce in there lasted 2 days after the swap - the fingers were bent in all directions on the pressure plate.

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, they use a stock pressure plate in just about everything as far as I know. Same goes for an entry level SPEC or Mcleod. However, the higher end clutches from those manufacturers have more clamping pressure.

Kurt

 

[cody50]

Funny, I took it to the track with the stock T-5 and Centerforce clutch (with 30x10 slicks and 4.10 gears) didn't break anything. I didn't drop the clutch really hard on launches and shifted at about 5,700 (because thats all the edelbrock 750cfm was good for). I was still surprised she all held. Now I have a carb that flows about 930cfm so that'll all change next time I get to take it out.

I so far fairly impressed with the heads- Not overwhelmed though. Still dialing in the car, just got a wideband. I'll update once I get a good solid pass under it.

 

[Pokageek]

That's good news. What did it run? Let me know when your ready for a trans. Mine will shift up to 7200 and handle 650ft of TQ. Its a little whiny for me but great for tracker.