weird issues with TPS and anderson PMS tuner

[Jaym14]

So my car start giving me some fits recently. I noticed that under hard acceleration it would fall on it's face at 3000 RPM. This indicated an issue with the Anderson PMS stand alone feature which I currently have set to come on at 30% throttle and 3000 RPM. Sure enough, once I disabled the stand alone it stopped falling on its face. However, with the standalone turned off the car is running off the stock EEC tune and not my custom tune. I did some fooling around and it seems like my TPS had taken a dump.. easy enough I thought.. I put a different TPS that I had sitting around on. Well that didn't fix it and now my damm idle is all over the place. I tried to set base idle, but with no luck. So I think that by the original TPS taking a dump it threw the PMS outta whack and now I can't seem to get it configured correctly. If anyone can offer some help, or insight, I would greatly appreciate it. I was working on this crap all afternoon with no luck. Thanks....

 

[84Ttop]

Did you tune it yourself originally? If not it may be time to see the tuner again, Wide open throttle is easy enough to adjust w/a pms but i've always had a tough time when playing w/ drivabilty, I leave that to my buddy and although i'm getting better at it. I still don't like monkeying w/ it. Just thinking, did you calibrate the new tps to the pms when you switched them over? Was your closed throttle voltage around 1.0 volts?

 

[Jaym14]

No the car was professionally tuned. I attempted to sync the pms with the new tps but I think the replacement one was bad also. It was reading 1.18v at closed throttle. I couldn't get any reading from the old one, it completely took a dump on me. I couldn't set the base idle with the new tps installed either, it kept surging like crazy. I think I'm going to order the adjustable one that bbk sells and see how that works out for me.

 

[84Ttop]

Yeah, that voltage is way to high. I like to see .95 to 1 volt at the tps. I've drilled the slots bigger on the tps's to adjust them farther w/ out buying anything special.

 

[Jaym14]

I had drilled out the old one like you said also. When it was working correctly it was at .96v @ closed throttle. I'm going to pick up a new tps and try that. After I install the new (working) tps I should be able to set base idle and hopefully the stand alone system will work again.

 

[Jaym14]

well I've swapped in a new TPS, cleaned out the IAC, and reset base idle. The surging idle stopped but now the idle is pretty low (around 800) and I can't seem to adjust it much higher. Also now when I step on the gas the RPMs hang for a few seconds before dropping (WTF??? lol) and the standalone still won't function. I'm getting really frustrated! I did not set the TPS voltage though cause I did not have a meter at the time so that could be one problem. Going to mess with it more this weekend but if that fails I'm just going to drop it back at the tuner and let him solve the problem.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Getting the idle right with the PMS can be tricky if you havent done it a lot, also make sure (do this with the car off) that when you press the pedal to the floor it is going into WOT.

You can adjust the idle screw on the TB to increase the idle, then tune it with the PMS. If it hangs it could be re-learning, the cable could be routed where it is tight or the IAC could be bad.

I tend to set the voltage to .85 since at WOT many will peg 1.0+ sparatically.

What version of the PMS are you running? I have always found Rick Anderson to be great help when I have a qucik question. Try giving AFM a call...

 

[DonMaximo]

And while I'm not familiar with all the changes you made in ferreting out your problem, you may want to consider clearing your KAMs.

If you're changing TPS settings and TB plate positioning, you could very well be moving away from the MAF Transfer your tuner original setup for you. The MAF is a 30 point scalar within the EEC which maps TPS voltage to Hg (i.e. MAF). These settings cannot be altered unless you have the appropriate hardware/software combo. (I use Binary Editor & Moates QH).

Clearing the KAMs may help alleviate the problem to the point where you're satisfied with the operability.

You can clear the KAMs by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery - place ignition key in ON position - stomp on brake a few times - place cable back on battery.

When you start car - you may need to feather throttle while the EEC relearns KAMs. Afterwards, start driving the car around town...this driving around will give the EEC time to consider load, HEGO's, MAF, fuel trims, etc.

<just a thought>

Regards, D

 

[Notchbck93]

Most guys that I know unplug their 02's (usually swap with wide band ---like fast dual wideband) and disconnect the IACV, disconnect the battery, clear the KAM, start the car and tune it that way via dual wide band.

Drive it around and tune it as you go. Most of them also get the A/F ratio close to stoich by adj fuel pressure before making any other changes via PMS.

After you adjust f/p and manual idle and have it so she runs great without the 02's, you then clear the KAM and plug everything back in and most have said the EEC only has very small corrections to make that point and their cars have never run better.

Don't forget about the cold/warm compensation on there as well.

 

[Jaym14]

wow those were 3 very helpful replies guys I really appreciate it. I'm going to get back to the car this sunday probably and I'll post a reply with my results. Thanks again!

 

[57fairlane]

I would say to set the TPS to .96-.98 and make sure the PMS is reading idle.

With the motor warm, unplug the IACV, set idle, turn off and plug back in. If you need to, use the idle control feature after this.

Also check you foot to the floor is reading WOT on the PMS as well.

 

[Jaym14]

ok guys, here's an update...

#1 problem is that I still don't have a voltmeter handy to check my TPS with. Mine is broken

However, I did mess around with it today. I drilled out the holes in the new TPS and made some adjustments. I got the car to idle beautifully @ 1000 RPM with no surge. Also I was able to solve the issue I was having with the RPM's hanging, it was mechanical. The idle screw and throttle cable needed adjustment.

The Bad: I still can't get the PMS stand alone to work. It's set to come on @ 30% throttle and 3000 RPM. As soon as I hit those criteria the car hangs.. it feels like hitting a rev limiter. Turn off the Stand alone and the car runs fine. Of course I don't want the stand alone off because then I can't use my custom tune

Could this be caused solely by not being able to dial in the TPS voltage exactly into the PMS because I don't have a meter? It seems like I can't get them to sync up.

 

[57fairlane]

Could this be caused solely by not being able to dial in the TPS voltage exactly into the PMS because I don't have a meter? It seems like I can't get them to sync up.

Probably . . . but I thought that both requirements had to be met before standalone engaged right?

So what happens at 4000rpm with 10% throttle?


Have you called Rick yet?

 

[Notchbck93]

I was going to add, you can see your tps voltage on your PMS hand unit.