Chassis Pivot Bolt Removal-LCA installation

hey guys,

this weekend i plan on installing my LCA's.. I have taken a look at my task and notice that the front bolts (chassis pivot bolt) appears to be difficult to get to and remove.. do you any suggestions for tools that i need or ways to remove these bolts easily? it seems really tight up that way...
based on reading MM instructions and a few threads on here, the rest doesnt seem to difficult.

if you guys have any other suggestions, please let me know as well
thanks in advance!
 
The main thing to watch out for is if you have an aftermarket exhaust. You might have to unbolt the back half of the exhaust and pull them off the hangers to get access to the frame bolts. You might want to spray some liquid wrench in there the day before you do it just to loosen it all up if there is any rust. Make sure you have the proper sized wrenches/sockets and it will go easily.
 
The main thing to watch out for is if you have an aftermarket exhaust. You might have to unbolt the back half of the exhaust and pull them off the hangers to get access to the frame bolts. You might want to spray some liquid wrench in there the day before you do it just to loosen it all up if there is any rust. Make sure you have the proper sized wrenches/sockets and it will go easily.
+10
When I started to unbolt the bolt you're talking about, I couldn't get the bolt completely out of the chasis, and:fuss: I cursed the history of man kind and there mothers until I figured out that I could unbolt the exhaust hangers and push the exhaust to the side to completely remove the bolt:mad:. Wish the directions would've told me that. Now I owe Mankind and there mother's an apology:grouphug:.
 
Unbolt the catback from the mid pipe.
Remove the tail pipe exhaust hanger.
Remove the muffler hanger.
Wrench on outside nut, impact gun on inside bolt.

They'll come off plenty easy. I take off the nut then thread it back on a few threads, then take off the rear bolt at the knuckle/axle. All while supported by a screw jack (I suppose a floor jack would suffice if you don't have a lift). Remove the rear bolt, lower the screw jack, a few inches down the LCA and spring assembly practically fall out. Then remove the front bolt.

When you use the screw jack to compress the spring installing the LCA again, the holes will not want to line up. A second screw jack carefully placed under the dog bone will help line up the holes EXACTLY with no pushing, shoving, or grunting required.
 
thanks guys thus far,, i have my exhaust dumped at the mufflers so shouldnt be a problem..
i do not have a impact gun unfortnuately..
i know i need 18mm sockets, however, will regular length, ie. not extended like a spark plug suffice?
im prolly over analzying this install but want to make sure im fully prepared
thanks
 
No, you'll need a deep socket, or an extension to get through the torque box area to that bolt.
If you don't have at least two jacks you'll have a ton of fun.

Get that car as high up on the jack stands as you possibly can, you'll need a ton of room to swing big breaker bars around and to lower that LCA to the point where there is no spring pressure.

The mufflers are what get in the way. You'll probably be easiest to just remove everything after the H pipe in your case.
 
Keep in mind the bolts should be retorqued while under normal load, not with the suspension free hanging. This does matter, as I found out the hard way. Bushing bind, much?

If you have any issues, my services are for hire at a very reasonable rate (compared to most mustang shops at $100/hr) in the central NJ/PA area. Lift, air tools, teaching or just doing it myself offered. Any nut and bolt on a Honda or Ford except audio and body work.
 
If you have the car up on jack stands and load the suspension from the axle by jacking the pumpkin you are not supporting the load of the car through the 3rd member. The jack stands support the load of the car. Jacking the car to normal ride height should load the suspension enough to properly torque the control arms.

On a side note, I've never known anyone that has broken anything on a SN95 based Mustang because they jacked the car up from the diff.
 
Based on your placement of jacks and jack stands, you're not loading the suspension. Using your positioning, it would require you to jack the car up high enough to get the jack stands out, then lower back down to normal ride height.

You will not achieve normal ride height without getting daylight between the jack stands and the body. Torquing suspension bolts with the suspension at half droop or with the butt up in the air is as useless as just hammering them on with an impact gun with the suspension at full droop.

You'd never notice the damage you did. Put a laser to your axle tubes with it out of the car. Did jacking it a few dozen times up by the pumpkin or tubes cause it? Probably not, but it certainly didn't help it.