2 is defintly the easiest if your doing it in the car. I'll be doing it outside the car on a freshly rebuilt engine. the bellhousing I have came with the trans.
t-5 conversion, cause lord knows we need another thread on this
- Thread starter HDTony
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2 is defintly the easiest if your doing it in the car. I'll be doing it outside the car on a freshly rebuilt engine. the bellhousing I have came with the trans.
Im sure you know that, whatever you do get the flywheel that matches your balancer. The 1968 would have 28 oz flywheel.
The T-5 lines up with the original shifter hole perfect when using the spacer plate. If no plate, I would have to cut about 1" towards the dash. Then you have to reach way foward to shift.
There is an upper and lower shifter boot. Be sure to install the lower one before installing the tranny. Guess how I know that one.
Im using a regular T-5 shifter and late model wood knob. They make some nice looking original style shifters that bolt to the T-5. There are tons of aftermarket shifters, but I dont like the handles.
The T-5 lines up with the original shifter hole perfect when using the spacer plate. If no plate, I would have to cut about 1" towards the dash. Then you have to reach way foward to shift.
There is an upper and lower shifter boot. Be sure to install the lower one before installing the tranny. Guess how I know that one.
Im using a regular T-5 shifter and late model wood knob. They make some nice looking original style shifters that bolt to the T-5. There are tons of aftermarket shifters, but I dont like the handles.
Hey, really don't want to start yet another thread so thought I'd post a question on T5's in here first. lol. I have a 70 mustang with a 347. I've had 2 T5's in it before and am switching to stick from auto yet again (I know, don't know why I keep switching). I know it's best to use 91-93 T5's, but I have a good 95 T5 looking at me. As far as I know, to only differance it the longer input shaft and shifter is further back. I'm sure the deeper bell housing compensates for the longer shaft so why do I never see anyone using 94-95 T5's? Is there a problem putting them in? Smitty
PoppyMod
Member
Hi,
Read through this article for a good overview.
Five Speed Mustang Transmission - Tremec Transmission - Mustang Monthly Magazine
Happy Trails!
I have swapped t5 on 67 (with late model bellhousing, stock position of the engine).
- No need to cut space for shifter, the shifter nicely fits to OE hole.
- No need for special t5 crossmember - there is nothing wrong with c4 OE crossmember. Can be easily adapted for t5.
- Late model clutch allows more precise shifting than old style clutch.
- Driveshaft: I had the stock c4 driveshaft shortened by 1" (after reading some Interent t5 swap guide). This turned out way too much.
- No need to cut space for shifter, the shifter nicely fits to OE hole.
- No need for special t5 crossmember - there is nothing wrong with c4 OE crossmember. Can be easily adapted for t5.
- Late model clutch allows more precise shifting than old style clutch.
- Driveshaft: I had the stock c4 driveshaft shortened by 1" (after reading some Interent t5 swap guide). This turned out way too much.
The Tremec is an entirely different transmission, and if you get the correct unit, and select the correct shifter location, the Tremec also fits the stock hole.
I stand by my prior statement, that if you shorten the input shaft, and mount the T5 an inch closer to the engine, you'll hit the front of the shifter hole. The input shaft he's talking about is the thing sticking out of the front, or engine side of the transmission.
Actually, the donor target is the 86-93 "World Class" T5, which is also available new.
The 94-up Mustang T5 relocated the shifter, so it won't line up with the hole in the floor. Doesn't matter what bell you use.
Getting the correct dimension trans is just too easy, which is why you don't see the 94-95 getting used.
I've been dealing with clutch cable installations on fox mustangs for a full decade, and now on my 66 for 2 years.
There is a reason why Ford moved to a cable setup vs the original z bar setup.
The clutch cable in both of my 86 mustangs lasted over 100k miles on the original cable, and now I've been going solid 2 years in my 66 mustang.
The clutch cable in my 66 combined with my rollerized bearings in my pedal assembly from mustang steve literally made my pressure so light and smooth I can depress the clutch pedal with 2 fingers.
The sad part is that a majority of people don't know how to route clutch cables, and have problems with exhaust system clearance. A properly routed cable that does not come into contact with the exhaust system will be better than the original z bar setup.
I personally payed to have my header on the dr side cut and moved on tube #1 so that it was out of the way of the clutch cable. This fixed all my problems and it's been perfect either way.
chris66dad
Member
I found it easier to convert to hydraulic with my T5. Total cost was around 220.
More info and parts list:
Hydraulic clutch
More info and parts list:
Hydraulic clutch
I've had headers, no cutting of them was required.
My stock linkage, with a coupla new nylon bushings, has been on my car in use for 45 years, and 400,000 miles.
Get back to me in 43 years and we'll compare notes.
