first off i would like to say hello to everyone on the forum. i planing a new set up a stock 302 motor with a on3performance turbo kit including 44# injectors 225 wallpro fuel pump oil filter relocate kit on3performance maf sensor and there ballpark tune. my hopes are to have a fun street car that will retain a/c and stock drivablity what clutch will offer holding power but not leave my legs sore in traffic but not cost to much thanks in advance
choosing a clutch
- Thread starter P51MustangFreak
- Start date
I recommend the Spec Stage 3+. I run it on my 762rwhp turbo'd 331. It's stiffer than stock, but it's not bad at all and is priced comparably with all of the other aftermarket clutches.
If your clutch is overly stiff, make sure you're using an OEM cable, and buy a UPR adjustable clutch quadrant kit. I went from clutch that was so tough that it made me hate driving the car to a clutch that felt comparable to my honda accord, and I loved driving the car again.
Chris
If your clutch is overly stiff, make sure you're using an OEM cable, and buy a UPR adjustable clutch quadrant kit. I went from clutch that was so tough that it made me hate driving the car to a clutch that felt comparable to my honda accord, and I loved driving the car again.
Chris
thank you for your advice its my first stick shift build just want to do it right so why is it important to use stock cable how long can i expect the stock t5 to last before she blows up im shooting for 450 to the wheels i have a 5500 doller budget so im trying to strech it out as long as posible
joe
joe
Id go stage 2 or stage 2+, the stage 3 can be a little too aggresive especially on the stock t5.
The stock t5 is hit or miss with the power they hold, you can break them stock or have them hold power. They typically break when the car hooks hard or powershifted in a high hp or tq car. Id put a tko600 on your future list.
The stock t5 is hit or miss with the power they hold, you can break them stock or have them hold power. They typically break when the car hooks hard or powershifted in a high hp or tq car. Id put a tko600 on your future list.
5 seconds
That much power, and more to the point the torque you'll make with turbos, can snap the T5 like a twig. Remember T5s were only rated to 275 or 300 lb-ft of torque in the foxes depending on the year. If you baby it, you might make it 10 seconds 
In reality, I've seen guys do really well with the T5 even at the power level you're talking about, but consider yourself on borrowed time. Easy shifts and street tires are the T5's friend.You will use that up surprisingly quickly. If you have any fabrication skills at all, build your own kit and use some inverted shortie headers. Might I recommend the Master Power T70 as one of the most cost-efficient turbos for a 5.0 motor. They're capable of making that powerlevel without breaking a sweat.
It and the steeda adjustable are the only cables that have ever worked for me. The others stretched and/or became nightmarishly hard to depress. I couldn't understand what was going on, and was awestruck at how much more I appreciated my car again after switching back to OEM. Trust me on this one, do not skimp on the cable. If you need a longer cable for routing purposes with your turbo system, use an SN95 OEM cable. Just cut off the plastic peice that goes to the firewall and it works on the fox like a charm. It also allows a more gradual bend from the firewall downward and back to the bellhousing.
I didn't think about that, Rick. Spec 3s are also a lot more touchy on engagement/disengagement. I was just worried about the amount of torque this guy is likely to make. I never had to worry about a T5 once I was turbod.
I really think building a T5 is the wrong way to go, brother. There are companies that will build one for you, but you won't save much, if any, money and you'll end up with a much weaker tranny. In my opinion, if you can't afford to build the drivetrain, you can't afford to build the motor, man. Your car will quickly become a nightmare if you build a motor like this without upgrading the rear and tranny. This hobby is retardedly expensive.
Chris
Chris
TRICKYGT
New Member
I just got my Spec 2 and hopefully its going in on tuesday. Went with flywheel and steeda adjustable. Will let you know how it goes.
anyone kno a place i can pick up a kit to swap the tko in place
sell your t5 before it breaks locally on craigslist and get a tremec 3550.
its inbetween a t5 and tko600 spec. rated for 450 torque. handles what you need for power. they only cost about 1200 for a trans with bellhousing and accessories.
i agree with rick on the clutch and t5 theory. i know a few people with stock power levels that mangled t5's FAST. i beat my t5 hard with 400whp for about 6 months with lots of abuse before that @ 300whp. it was great up til i told it.
before you break it potentially, get some $$ out of it and grab a tremec 3550.
its inbetween a t5 and tko600 spec. rated for 450 torque. handles what you need for power. they only cost about 1200 for a trans with bellhousing and accessories.
i agree with rick on the clutch and t5 theory. i know a few people with stock power levels that mangled t5's FAST. i beat my t5 hard with 400whp for about 6 months with lots of abuse before that @ 300whp. it was great up til i told it.
before you break it potentially, get some $$ out of it and grab a tremec 3550.
I believe the 3550 has a stock-type 10-spline input shaft. The TKO has a 26-spline shaft. Yes, you need a different bellhousing and driveshaft yoke. You either need or should replace the following parts: clutch fork, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, shifter (unless you want to use the crap tremec shifter - T5 shifters don't fit), and trans-mount. You can reuse the stock mount but you'll have to modify it a little.
Oh... and I think a speedo gear because the number of teeth goes from 7 to 8 or something like that... memory's a little fuzzy.
With the power you plan I would go with a steel bell only....Quicktime makes the best one out in my opinion, lots of clearance. You could buy their non sfi one and save a little money.
3550 is a 10 spline, 600 is 26 spline input. Youll also need a driveshaft yoke for the tko.
3550 is a 10 spline, 600 is 26 spline input. Youll also need a driveshaft yoke for the tko.
