First Mustang What Mods To Do First ?

[old_blue]

wire loom covers, painted interior, lots of gauges .... lots...... altezza rear tail lights, U/D pullies, 24lb injectors, shortie headers,












Vote for sub frames and suspension upkeep like shocks and struts, check ball joints, tie rods, rack and pinion system etc..... These things will start to go out if not already replaced and will answer many questions in the long run of "what is this?" and "why is my car doing this?"

 

[90lxwhite]

Honestly, cylinder heads if you're lookin to make some power. Don't d*ck around w too many bolt-ons to where if you add em up you could've had afr's put on. New shocks, springs, and subframe connectors along w a rebuilt front end was good money spent for me. While not the most fun of modifications it's more pleasurable to drive now. Oh and tires man. Get ya a goods set of tires.

 

[90lxwhite]

Hello all , this is my first time on here and I just got my first mustang . It's a 1995 gt 5.0 5 speed , it's excellent shape , it's already had some mods , like full bassani exhaust , ported intake manifold, underdrive pulleys and emissions delete. And it's got a new clutch and short throw shifter , the car feels really good now , but I know it could be faster , I was wondering if anyone could insight on what my cars hp might be at now? And what next mods I can do and still keep it reliable and daily driver ready . Thanks in advance !

I have a 95 gt w stock heads w spring upgrade, .512 cam, ported lower intake, stock h-pipe w pre-cats removed and the oem cats replaced w high flow's and Forzaflow mufflers. It made 223 to the rear so I'd think you'd be in the ballpark.

 

[tannerc91gt]

Honestly, cylinder heads if you're lookin to make some power. Don't d*ck around w too many bolt-ons to where if you add em up you could've had afr's put on. New shocks, springs, and subframe connectors along w a rebuilt front end was good money spent for me. While not the most fun of modifications it's more pleasurable to drive now. Oh and tires man. Get ya a goods set of tires.

There is absolutely no sense in a set of heads with a stock cam and stock intake you're still bottle necked severely. Even a ported stock intake isn't worth much. So while I agree with not jackin around with silly little supporting mods, I don't think a set of AFRs should be priority #1.


Bottom line is you ask 20 people, you'll get 20 different answers. Everyone has different priorities, ideas and experiences. Just read. And read. And when you think you've got it figured out read some more. THEN build. Measure twice, cut once. No one likes buying parts twice.

 

[A5literMan]

What gears do you recommend for a manual ? And how much do good subframe connectors run ? And installation cost , thanks a lot

Maximum Motorsports has very good weld in connectors for about 150$. A shop can weld them for you if you can't. The labor should be around 100-150$ Not a sexy mod but it keeps your chassis from twisting. You can get a FRPP gear kit from Late Model Restoration for about 200$ with a stangnet discount. Again labor usually around 3-500$ so total less than 1k for both mods installed

 

[90lxwhite]

Maximum Motorsports has very good weld in connectors for about 150$. A shop can weld them for you if you can't. The labor should be around 100-150$ Not a sexy mod but it keeps your chassis from twisting. You can get a FRPP gear kit from Late Model Restoration for about 200$ with a stangnet discount. Again labor usually around 3-500$ so total less than 1k for both mods installed

are the max motor you speak of full length? If not then save $100 http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-SUBS/79-04-Mustang-Black-Steel-Subframe-Connectors even if they're aren't save $100

 

[90lxwhite]

There is absolutely no sense in a set of heads with a stock cam and stock intake you're still bottle necked severely. Even a ported stock intake isn't worth much. So while I agree with not jackin around with silly little supporting mods, I don't think a set of AFRs should be priority #1.


Bottom line is you ask 20 people, you'll get 20 different answers. Everyone has different priorities, ideas and experiences. Just read. And read. And when you think you've got it figured out read some more. THEN build. Measure twice, cut once. No one likes buying parts twice.

I want literally suggesting afr but y'all know what I'm saying. If he wants a noticeable difference bolt-ons are a waste. (Kinda) Oh and before precats and having the lower ported i was making 202 rwhp. 20 horse gain

 

[ID89GT]

Nitrous would be good too. Easy horsepower. Oh and stickers. Those give lots of power as well

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Going heads as a "first" mod isn't at all a bad idea. True, you're not going to reap their whirlwind benefits without doing the rest of the top end, but the engine will run and perform find in the mean time.....and an intake manifold and camshaft can be done at a later date, without having to tear the heads off a second time. It's a decent start that will save time and expense IMO.

Here's the catch 22 though. Once you've got the heads on there, you're going to want to reap the most benefit from them....so you're going to end up buying the intake, the camshaft, throttle body, MAF, roller rockers, etc and all those other little bolt on's that you otherwise swore were a waste of time prior. So really, you're not trading one mod out for another.....just the order in which you install them.

Also, some guys consider underdive pulleys a waste. Hey, for all of about $60 for them and a solid 2-5hp gain, it's pretty tough to argue with their "bang for the buck" performance gain. And if you don't like them...who care, you only spend $60 on them? Personally, I wouldn't use them without at least a 3G alternator upgrade....but then IMO, that should be one of your first mods anyway, as the stock 75A 2G alternator is out right anaemic even for a stock car.