Proform Pedestal Mount 1.7rr Questions
- Thread starter jdemolet
- Start date
get rid of those pro-form rockers. they are notorious for breaking....badly. Sounds like you are pretty new at this and all your questions need more info before they can be answered. give us a run down on your entire engine set up.
On the cam base circle for whatever valve I was working on. With the lifters pumped up. I would tighten the 5/16 bolt until I felt resistance while spinning the pushrod. From there I would torque the bolt to only 8 or 12 foot pounds with a beam torque wrench. See how far it turned from zero lash. Anywhere from 1/4 to 1 turn, whatever. I think I shot for between 1/2 and 3/4 turns. Add or remove shims to achieve it.
I only went to 8 or 10 foot pounds for the measurement because once the bolt and pedestal are seated it doesn't matter how tight you torque it. If I tried to torque it to 30 ft-lbs and it takes 2 turns, it doesn't matter because everything was already seated at 1/2 turn, as an example. Beyond that is just stretching the bolt and it doesn't factor in to your measurement. I hope that makes sense.
The place you read was correct. Zero lash is the point at which there is no play in your valvetrain. The point you feel resistance on the pushrod, or it stops turning.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Ok, i'll bite...
Stock cam? heads? Tb? MAF? How many miles on the valve springs and are they stock. Increase the lift on a set of worn or high mile stock springs and you will get things like binding, breakage, or worse PTV boomage.
Why are you installing 1.7 RR with stock heads. waste of time and money IMO. Wait until you can afford some better heads, then you pick the cam and build the motor around that- choose the heads, springs intake, TB, injectors, etc.
Pushrod length is determined by the heads, cam, rockers, head gasket, and a host of other variables. On pedestal mount rockers, often shims are needs to achieve proper preload. Follow the manufacturer recommendation for proper preload and torque.
You are way far away from needing more injectors.
Stock cam? heads? Tb? MAF? How many miles on the valve springs and are they stock. Increase the lift on a set of worn or high mile stock springs and you will get things like binding, breakage, or worse PTV boomage.
Why are you installing 1.7 RR with stock heads. waste of time and money IMO. Wait until you can afford some better heads, then you pick the cam and build the motor around that- choose the heads, springs intake, TB, injectors, etc.
Pushrod length is determined by the heads, cam, rockers, head gasket, and a host of other variables. On pedestal mount rockers, often shims are needs to achieve proper preload. Follow the manufacturer recommendation for proper preload and torque.
You are way far away from needing more injectors.
flo tek is also chinese made crap just like those proform rockers. IMHO a gt40/p top end is THE best budget mod out there. Assuming you can pull it yourself you can put the whole package together for 500 or less and it will give you an extra 40-60hp over the stock fox set up.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
You are better off with a set of Explorer heads and new springs. Save your money for when you get a good set of heads.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I think Brian @Gearbanger 101 knows of a guy that sells them already assembled with decent springs for 3-400.
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