Before And After Realistic Hp And Torque Estimates

[stykthyn]

I have regular gt40s, but we aren't talking huge amounts of boost. Like you I am using a stock bottom end which would be the first thing to fail in a high boost application. 9-10lbs with a good tune will put plenty of smile on our faces even if you are using p heads.

 

[Bob F]

Thats good to hear! I was thinking even 5-6 lbs. wouldn't work. I also figure with boost my stock clutch and/or T-5 will probably need to be upgraded at some point. Again this is fun street vert not a drag car.

 

[Bob F]

OK I just got the before Dyno numbers. 228.78 hp and 290.84 Torque. He said Peak power was at 4800 and it is running lean at WOT. I am very happy with the numbers but 4800 peak seems odd and the lean WOT concerns me. Hopefully the new injectors and adj. pressure regulator will help with that?

 

[Bob F]

I Finally figured out to change the image to a JPEG to get it to upload.

 

[A5literMan]

What fuel pump are you using at the moment? That could be your lean issue.

 

[Bob F]

What fuel pump are you using at the moment? That could be your lean issue.

Good point. It is the original stock pump, regulator and injectors. All of those are getting replaced so I'm hoping that will help.

 

[Bob F]

NOW I'M GETTING PUMPED!

 

[cleanLX]

Very nice.
You had a strong stocker. When my motor was stock, but had 76mm MAM, full exhaust it made 232/292 and it ran 12.9's.
Looks like the A/F is pretty steady at 13.8-13.9... which is exactly where mine ran with factory tune, even with a 255lph pump. Never worried about it, car ran hard.

I too would agree with others... time for a fuel pump with your upgrades.

 

[Bob F]

Ours had pretty close numbers. What gear and rear tires to get that 12.9? Mine is a vert so I'm thinking mid 13's once I get some drag radials.

 

[stykthyn]

What tq arm set up is that?

 

[cleanLX]

had 4.10's in it and ran MT ET Street DOT bias out back and ET Front on skinnies at the other end.
not sure how much track time you intend on, or what the reasoning is for drag radial, but, I've found dr's to be a very frustrating experience with a 5spd and basic suspension. Best on dr's, 1.82 (walking the clutch out and the gas down in a tightly orchestrated dance... not easily repeatable/consistent) best on bias plys 1.64, drop the clutch at 5500rpm and let it eat.
If the dr's are for track only, and you are not going to an adjustable clutch, engine management system and sophisticated suspension, forget the dr and go bias.

 

[Bob F]

What tq arm set up is that?

If u mean the black axle to diff brace it is SWARR Auto

 

[Bob F]

had 4.10's in it and ran MT ET Street DOT bias out back and ET Front on skinnies at the other end.
not sure how much track time you intend on, or what the reasoning is for drag radial, but, I've found dr's to be a very frustrating experience with a 5spd and basic suspension. Best on dr's, 1.82 (walking the clutch out and the gas down in a tightly orchestrated dance... not easily repeatable/consistent) best on bias plys 1.64, drop the clutch at 5500rpm and let it eat.
If the dr's are for track only, and you are not going to an adjustable clutch, engine management system and sophisticated suspension, forget the dr and go bias.

I do have an adj. Clutch, control arms with poly bushings, Strange adj. Shocks and struts, 4.10's, and basically the full Stiffler,s system.

 

[Bob F]

Ideally I would like 17 inch drag radials on my Cobra replicas for the street and get my stock 15 inch turbine rears widend to 9 inchs and the fronts narrowed to 5 inch for big n littles at the track.

 

[A5literMan]

Ideally I would like 17 inch drag radials on my Cobra replicas for the street and get my stock 15 inch turbine rears widend to 9 inchs and the fronts narrowed to 5 inch for big n littles at the track.

That would be cool.

 

[cleanLX]

that would be very cool. I though about doing that with a set of pony's.
By adjustable clutch, I'm talking about a McLeod soft lock or something similar, something you can dial in bite and slip, not a typical firewall adjuster and cable setup... or and engine management system that controls power off the launch.
Maybe you'll be able to get the dr's to work for you, but I found them way too inconsistent and frustrating and gave up on them. dr's simply do not like to be shocked the way a standard with with typical clutch/suspension set up works.

 

[A5literMan]

that would be very cool. I though about doing that with a set of pony's.
By adjustable clutch, I'm talking about a McLeod soft lock or something similar, something you can dial in bite and slip, not a typical firewall adjuster and cable setup... or and engine management system that controls power off the launch.
Maybe you'll be able to get the dr's to work for you, but I found them way too inconsistent and frustrating and gave up on them. dr's simply do not like to be shocked the way a standard with with typical clutch/suspension set up works.

Agreed. Dr's don't like manual trans/track passes very well. But I only have used Nitto's. But they work fairly well on the street. As long as Bob remembers they aren't going to last very long(5-10k miles seems to be the avg) lol.

 

[Bob F]

Thanks guys, I only drive 2-3k miles per year so that's ok. Just today after talking to my mechanic I decided to switch to mass air. So now what little money I have left is going towards that. I have everything I need except the computer.

 

[Bob F]

Well, I went with the mass air conversion, 24lb. injectors, and 75mm Pro M. I am happy with the results. A big thank you to Mike Post in Hampshire IL, he did all the work and dyno runs. I will be seeing him again for some tweaking, probably an SCT tune, and at some point a Vortech

.

 

[cleanLX]

that is strong for untouched P heads and stock cam. Very nice.
Bet it's a hoot to drive.