Hey everyone. Posting here to get some advice about what to do next. Prepare for an enormous wall of text. TL;DR: my mustang hunches above 2k RPM and I'm not sure what to do.
I have an 89 mustang GT. Owned it since 09, not driven it very much at all (~2k since purchased, has ~129k miles), but finally have a garage big enough for it so I'm trying to get it running right.
For the past several years, it's developed a, for lack of better word, miss, while driving. It seems to have gotten worse lately, and I've now pinpointed it to really occur most frequently around 2k RPM and above.
Mods from stock (no, they were already on the car when I bought it):
It's difficult to describe the miss. It's more like it's cutting out. The tach dips down whenever it happens, and it feels very violent. My family has referred to it as "hunching."
Not sure what to do next. Could this be caused by the stubby warm air filter that gets fan wash? The battery positive cable is pretty shot but makes a decent connection. I know it needs to be replaced but I'm trying to prioritize my spending toward making it run right again. I know the fuel gauge doesn't work, nor does the temperature gauge, but I assume they're unrelated. If you've made it this far, congratulations! You've shown a lot of perseverance
I have an 89 mustang GT. Owned it since 09, not driven it very much at all (~2k since purchased, has ~129k miles), but finally have a garage big enough for it so I'm trying to get it running right.
For the past several years, it's developed a, for lack of better word, miss, while driving. It seems to have gotten worse lately, and I've now pinpointed it to really occur most frequently around 2k RPM and above.
Mods from stock (no, they were already on the car when I bought it):
- 3.73 rear end
- Cobra intake (not sure if it's just the upper intake or the whole thing)
- Stock airbox delete with a cone filter stuck onto the MAF with a radiator clamp (sigh)
- Fuel filter changed ~1-2 years ago (has maybe 200 miles on it since)
- Spark plugs replaced around the same time as the fuel filter
- Rotor and distributor cap this past week
- Confirmed it was in time (set at 12 degrees without SPOUT) and confirmed it was higher with SPOUT (somewhere above 20, it's difficult to know for sure because of how rusty the harmonic balance wheel is)
- All of the fuses are good
- KOEO (no codes, but a MAF code was found stored)
- KOER (no codes, but the first time I ran this it gave a 6 cylinder ID)
- Cylinder balance test
- 1st run: Codes 20, 40, 60, 70
- 2nd run: Code 50
- 3rd run: Code 50
It's difficult to describe the miss. It's more like it's cutting out. The tach dips down whenever it happens, and it feels very violent. My family has referred to it as "hunching."
Not sure what to do next. Could this be caused by the stubby warm air filter that gets fan wash? The battery positive cable is pretty shot but makes a decent connection. I know it needs to be replaced but I'm trying to prioritize my spending toward making it run right again. I know the fuel gauge doesn't work, nor does the temperature gauge, but I assume they're unrelated. If you've made it this far, congratulations! You've shown a lot of perseverance