Lca Install Difficulty Level??

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Ok so finally on the LCA project. So looks like my mufflers are pretty close to where I need to get in for the other bolt. I thought maybe if I disconnect from my H pipe I could maybe make some room. Am I right on this? If so how do I disconnect from the collector area, I took the bolts off but do I just have to pry it apart?
 
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Pull bolts out. Put bolts back in.

Jack stands and a good floor jack. Take your time and disassemble just one side at a time.

A good (set of) pry bar(s) can be handy to have around but you will hopefully not need them at all.

Have you already inspected your torque boxes? Can you post up quality pics of them?
Ok so this is my drivers side now that everything is out. Idk what to look for in regards to bad torque boxes but how do these look.
 
The upper bushings on the differential will be a pita to remove and install. MM sells a neat little tool to remove and install bushings that makes it a bunch easier.

MM recommends stock style bushings in that area, their argument sounds valid. So use stock rubber at that one point.

They even recommend a stock style upper control arms.
 
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I have that nifty little tool, haven't used it yet, where you at? I could send it to ya to use then you could send it back but honestly when I did mine the rear was out and I just hammered them out and then back in, if your not taken the rear out it would make life easy.
 
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Your boxes appear to be pretty straight. What control arms and bushings did you say you were putting in?
I’m using the UPRs for now and later would like to upgrade to a full MM suspension, but that would be later down the line, but picked these up for the time being, in great shape not bad for 125. As for the rear axle I am putting the prothane bushings But seems like those are gonna be a pain to get out. I’ve read to use the MM tool, air chisel, and even just drill them out with a drill bit.
 
I have that nifty little tool, haven't used it yet, where you at? I could send it to ya to use then you could send it back but honestly when I did mine the rear was out and I just hammered them out and then back in, if your not taken the rear out it would make life easy.
So my rear axle is not out, still trying to figure out how to get those out. I hear that tool is the easiest way to go. I live in Austin, tx. I read on lmr that you could use a drill bit and let it walk around the bushing and the metal housing and it will come out, I’m guessing it’s just basically cutting it out. Idk how true that is or how easy that would be.
 
You should heed the warning above about suspension bind caused by too stiff of an upper bushing.


Do any of you guys have practical experience with that kit on the street? What's it like?
 
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You should heed the warning above about suspension bind caused by too stiff of an upper bushing.
So you think this might be to stiff? I did see these on lmr but I don’t know what their return policy is. Starting to think maybe I shouldn’t have messed with these.

Do any of you guys have practical experience with that kit on the street? What's it like?
 
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So my rear axle is not out, still trying to figure out how to get those out. I hear that tool is the easiest way to go. I live in Austin, tx. I read on lmr that you could use a drill bit and let it walk around the bushing and the metal housing and it will come out, I’m guessing it’s just basically cutting it out. Idk how true that is or how easy that would be.
I believe if you’re just going to change out the upper diff. Side bushings you’ll want to leave the stockmetal sleeve in tact and slip the new bushings into the sleeve.

I could be wrong, but I think that’s how those bushings work.

New oe bushings come with a new sleeve.
 
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Also can one pick up spring isolators from say auto zone etc or am I better off just using lmr. Feel like the ones on the lowers are fine but the ones on top are kinda beat as were the lower ones one the stock lca’s as you can see. What is that black boot for inside the spring and does that need to be in there?
 
I believe if you’re just going to change out the upper diff. Side bushings you’ll want to leave the stockmetal sleeve in tact and slip the new bushings into the sleeve.

I could be wrong, but I think that’s how those bushings work.

New oe bushings come with a new sleeve.
That’s what I thought to, the ford performance come with bushing and sleeve. The ones I got I have to get the bushing out of the sleeve and insert the new bushing even though that is apparently easier said than done
 
Kind of funny how they include bushings with friction modifier and c-clips. Are you pulling the axles for some reason?

I would think a parts store would have isolators, though I did order mine from LMR.
No not pulling my axles just figured while I was in there I’d change those axle bushings. So on lmr this what read for the prothane bushings kit I got. Seems like most just cut the old bushings out and slipped these in. My question is where does that other bushing go?
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So my rear axle is not out, still trying to figure out how to get those out. I hear that tool is the easiest way to go. I live in Austin, tx. I read on lmr that you could use a drill bit and let it walk around the bushing and the metal housing and it will come out, I’m guessing it’s just basically cutting it out. Idk how true that is or how easy that would be.
Limited room with the housing still in the car, if you are changing uppers and lowers drop in on the ground, nothing to it.
That black thing inside the spring keeps harmonics down, spring vibration, I think
Or it keeps the bugs out, thats a down under thing.
 
No not pulling my axles just figured while I was in there I’d change those axle bushings. So on lmr this what read for the prothane bushings kit I got. Seems like most just cut the old bushings out and slipped these in. My question is where does that other bushing go?
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They fit on the inner side, it's kind of a collar for the control arm to press against. They should fit on the very end if the main bushing once you have it pushed into the metal sleeve.