Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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#11,021
For a supposedly low boost 450-500hp engine you worry too much. I don't think any of that stock :poo: is going care whether the big ends are resized or what not. What DOES seem to be a problem is your area machine shops. They farked up the Aussie Headed Monster Engine sleeves TWICE, ran your head on a belt sander and just generally seem to FUBAR whatever you bring them. You could have just slapped the stock unopened long block in and been bucks and manhours ahead.
 
#11,023
droopie85gt said:
For a supposedly low boost 450-500hp engine you worry too much. I don't think any of that stock :poo: is going care whether the big ends are resized or what not. What DOES seem to be a problem is your area machine shops. They farked up the Aussie Headed Monster Engine sleeves TWICE, ran your head on a belt sander and just generally seem to FUBAR whatever you bring them. You could have just slapped the stock unopened long block in and been bucks and manhours ahead.
Click to expand...
And would’ve been the case had the intake cam not spun off the wrench when I was trying to remove the cam gears. To replace a cam seal.
That leaked. So you buy new seals
After which you learn the the VVTI gear leaks.
So you buy new seals for that too.

Seals turn into this, gaskets turn into that..

I just went down and TTY’d the main cap bolts just to see.
They TTY’d.......presently holding at 40ft lbs + 90*.
 
#11,026
CarMichael Angelo said:
And would’ve been the case had the intake cam not spun off the wrench when I was trying to remove the cam gears. To replace a cam seal.
That leaked. So you buy new seals
After which you learn the the VVTI gear leaks.
So you buy new seals for that too.

Seals turn into this, gaskets turn into that..

I just went down and TTY’d the main cap bolts just to see.
They TTY’d.......presently holding at 40ft lbs + 90*.
Click to expand...

Damn, sounds like an LS swap is so much easier. I don't even think they need oil until you cross 700 hp. Cams...you can whittle one out of a hickory stick.

:doh:
 
#11,027
droopie85gt said:
Damn, sounds like an LS swap is so much easier. I don't even think they need oil until you cross 700 hp. Cams...you can whittle one out of a hickory stick.

:doh:
Click to expand...
No ya crazy,...its 2jz swaps..Theyre a dime a dozen.
Just ask the guy that's gonna put a jag engine in his car. he'll tell you all about it. He even has pictures.
 
#11,028
95BlueStallion said:
Summit doesn’t sell everything you need?
Click to expand...
TTY main cap bolts, good sir. Nobody has them except the dealer. And considering that there were only 54 in Lexus's entire domestic inventory, Not even the dealer will have them much longer.

I'd have used studs if I knew that they could potentially distort the main bore, and they were on the engine while it was at the machine shop where they could've done something about that then.

But this is now.

I'm not gonna dick with taking the whole short block back apart. There are 14 bolts holding that crank in place now. Ill continue putting the thing together till the replacement bolts get here, and change them out as a last step before sealing the engine up.
According to the Lexus dealer across from me here at work, they're supposed to be here by the end of the week next week at the latest. With the EPS conversion, fuel cell conversion, and the entire rewire still left to do, Those boltss could take a month, and I still probably wouldn't need them.
 
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#11,029
The 119.00 manual steering rack arrived last night. Initial first looks find it to be every bit as good as a Flaming River, or Uni-steer rack that’s out there selling for twice that much. I’ll check the turn count lock to lock to see what i actually have tomorrow.

The other decision I have to make is whether or not to put the head on this thing before I attempt to put it in the car. When the head is on, it really becomes a long tall sonofabitch, and trying to angle the combo into the engine compartment always ends up hitting the engine hoist, or the firewall, or both.

Back when I was removing the even longer, taller 4.1L Forphadite engine that WAS in it before, I cut and sectioned the upper radiator saddle so I could remove it W/o having to angle it so steeply to get it in. And it’s that way now,..but this time it has brand new shiny orange paint on it. I’d be worried that the paint will crack around the bolt heads that hold the thing in place.

Given that the main cap bolts are not s’posed to be here until next week, I want to keep moving forward on the engine. That’ll mean I’m putting the head on, and removing the saddle.

The 3amd and I were talking last night,.he thinks that I may have to remove the steering support bracket to make it easier to modify the steering for the upcoming EPS conversion. I told him that with all the wiring that is currently in place, I doubt that that would be possible, but agreed with him that it would make it way easier, especially if I have to cut that support in any way.

im hoping that I can get it out of there...Tell ya what,..why don’t I put some shoes on and go down there and look..
 
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#11,031
Yeah,...this is gonna work.
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CE802D34-8C0E-4180-96CF-B0B053A7C804.webp

Now I don’t know about whats under y’all’s dashes, but under mine, there’s nothing but wasteland from the firewall back on the left side of my column. Perfect place for an EPS motor to mount.
 
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#11,036
just heard back from the guy @TOOLOW91 Referred me to to send the injectors to for testing, and calibration.
If you remember, these were eBay special Bosch injectors advertised at 1000cc( 95lh/hr) that I bought for 375.00

They are in fact just as described, all within a chicken's dick of each other flow wise.

I did good.
 
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