Progress Thread Low budget 89 LX build, Car is apart again

[Gravydog]

Update time:
I've been working on reassembly here and there, I'm not going to make my paint deadline, and that's OK, the expiration date on the can is just a suggestion. I waited 25 years for this car, why get in a hurry now. I had the engine running the other day, but there is a pretty good fuel leak from the lines that run along the frame rail that was all rotted out, shocker right?
One of the few mods I'm doing is the electric fan from a Dodge Challenger that I showed before, so tonight I decided to make some mounts for it. I made 4 of these from 16 gauge Sheetmetal, they're attached to fan with 1/4 inch rivits, just like the ones that hold an outer door handles on. With these mounts, the fan bolts to the radiator pretty much same way the factory shroud does.

By mounting the fan upside down on the radiator, I was able to get creative and mount the factory over flow bottle, doing it this way also put the wiring on the driver side, closer to the battery.

Here is a test fit in the car, I'm pretty happy with how it fits, and that I can use the over flow bottle

That's where I'm at for now, I'll pull it back out and paint the mounts so the don't rust, I also have a 3G alternator, and a fan controller to turn this thing on and off, but 1 thing at a time.

 

[90sickfox]

In my experience for some reason the 4 cylinder t5 holds up better than the v8 one. The last bunch of years I've gone through ( 2 ) v8 t5s ( 1 ) z spec t5...and the last 12yrs on a 4 cylinder transmission. My 347 made quick work of the z spec. The dog ears for second were worn off the gear. That would cause it to pop out of second. The detent blockers also started locking up causing it to not go in some gears. One of the v8 input shafts twisted and the bearings were trashed. The other one was due to gear oil and hard shifting when cold with bad synchros. This 4 cylinder transmission has been behind the 306, 347, and the last 4yrs behind my hardly driven 331 turbo. Guys told me the 4 banger transmission was stronger....this one came out of a 79 pace car in the JY. No idea what it was in before that. It's still living and working flawlessly.

I'm liking the fan install. Very similar to when I used the Jeep Cherokee electric fans....but I mounted them in the factory fan shroud.

 

[Gravydog]

In my experience for some reason the 4 cylinder t5 holds up better than the v8 one. The last bunch of years I've gone through ( 2 ) v8 t5s ( 1 ) z spec t5...and the last 12yrs on a 4 cylinder transmission. My 347 made quick work of the z spec. The dog ears for second were worn off the gear. That would cause it to pop out of second. The detent blockers also started locking up causing it to not go in some gears. One of the v8 input shafts twisted and the bearings were trashed. The other one was due to gear oil and hard shifting when cold with bad synchros. This 4 cylinder transmission has been behind the 306, 347, and the last 4yrs behind my hardly driven 331 turbo. Guys told me the 4 banger transmission was stronger....this one came out of a 79 pace car in the JY. No idea what it was in before that. It's still living and working flawlessly.

I'm liking the fan install. Very similar to when I used the Jeep Cherokee electric fans....but I mounted them in the factory fan shroud.

I'm going to keep the 4banger t5 in there till it does break, mine has some wear on the end of the main shaft, I think it's because they had the V8 pilot bearing in there still. I figure I should get a V6 trans or 2 while they're still in the yards, someday they will be all gone like the Foxbodys.
What rear gear are you running with the 4cyl trans?

 

[90sickfox]

Right now I have 3.55:1 in an IRS rear. Used to run 3.73:1 with the straight axle 8.8.

 

[General karthief]

Right now I have 3.55:1 in an IRS rear. Used to run 3.73:1 with the straight axle 8.8.

so what are your thoughts on the difference?

 

[Gravydog]

so what are your thoughts on the difference?

Yes, tell me more, I have a set of 3:73, but haven't installed them yet, I'm kinda worried about 1st gear with the 4 Cyl tranny.

 

[90sickfox]

I liked the 3.73 better. The 3.55 is better for the way the car is set up now....I actually could go with a 3.27 or 3.08. I enjoyed the acceleration getting up to speed on the highway.

To be honest I really haven't paid attention to the 4 cylinder first gear ratio. It doesn't feel overly short to me at all. 1st gear is up to about 5 to 10 mph. I say put the 3.73 in and have fun. When I race I always start in second. Gives me less gears to change.

 

[Gravydog]

Well, it's all back in 1 piece. I took it out over the weekend for some shakedown runs, and everything seems good. I still need to wire the fan controller, but for now it's parked over the lift, ready to finish body work.

 

[JustinL]

What's left for body work? Rockers?

 

[Gravydog]

What's left for body work? Rockers?

Got a rust spot on the drivers side rocker, some rust on the door bottoms and a couple of door dings. Then detrim and final paint prep.

 

[JustinL]

Got a rust spot on the drivers side rocker, some rust on the door bottoms and a couple of door dings. Then detrim and final paint prep.

I need inner/outer rockers for my ttop and I'm not finding much info out there on replacing them. On mine, the front side of the car by the firewall has the most rot (or is completely missing) so I don't think this will be a section and cut method.

Either way, keep us updated on how you go about working yours. I already learned a ton about the frame rails from later model mustangs fitting!

 

[Gravydog]

I need inner/outer rockers for my ttop and I'm not finding much info out there on replacing them. On mine, the front side of the car by the firewall has the most rot (or is completely missing) so I don't think this will be a section and cut method.

Either way, keep us updated on how you go about working yours. I already learned a ton about the frame rails from later model mustangs fitting!

My rocker isn't that bad, I will more that likely just use some fiberglass filler like I did on the rear wheel arch. I know that isn't the proper repair, but summers coming and I want this car done. The paint job it's getting will just be one step above Maaco, but that's on purpose, the paint was free, so it fits my budget perfectly.
Inner and outer rockers is a pretty big job, what kind of shape is the floor in? Just wondering cuz the inner rocker welds to it.

 

[JustinL]

Floors you say?

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tVqsFMX/0/XL/i-tVqsFMX-XL.jpg

 

[DudeStang]

Fascinating thread. I wish I knew how to do half the stuff you have been doing with the body/engine bay repairs. Keep up the good work.

BTW, you should have a YouTube channel to document some of this work. Might be too much of a pain in the ass on top of everything else you got going on but I'd watch the progress...and I imagine a lot of other folks would learn a thing or ten.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

Got a rust spot on the drivers side rocker, some rust on the door bottoms and a couple of door dings. Then detrim and final paint prep.

How are you going to repair the door bottoms? This car reminds me of my first Mstang,an 87 LX hatch. Great job on yours so far,keep it up.

 

[Gravydog]

Fascinating thread. I wish I knew how to do half the stuff you have been doing with the body/engine bay repairs. Keep up the good work.

BTW, you should have a YouTube channel to document some of this work. Might be too much of a pain in the ass on top of everything else you got going on but I'd watch the progress...and I imagine a lot of other folks would learn a thing or ten.

Thanks for the kind words, trust me though, nobody wants to see my face on YouTube.

 

[Gravydog]

How are you going to repair the door bottoms? This car reminds me of my first Mstang,an 87 LX hatch. Great job on yours so far,keep it up.

The door bottoms aren't too bad, I'll probably just clean them up, POR 15, seam sealer, paint and spray some rustproofing inside the doors. I've done similar repairs before and they last for a long time, if this car was nicer, I'd find some rust free doors.

 

[JustinL]

Thanks for the kind words, trust me though, nobody wants to see my face on YouTube.

Plus you already did a lot of the work... can't take it apart and redo it! Well you can but -

 

[Gravydog]

Update time, I've been side tracked with some other projects, but the Mustang is still moving forward. I'm not going to do a step by step, just an update and a big picture dump.
The day I started doing bodywork, I realized the doors were worse than I thought they were, a rust free set off doors popped up on Facebook, so I went and snagged them, I also got the front clip from the same car, I didn't really need it, but the guy said if I was taking the doors, I had to take it too. I had some fitment issues with the passenger door, it was sticking out about 1/4 inch from the cowl, I tried to fudge it, but ended up cutting the upper hinge off the door and welding it back on in the correct position. All of the bodywork is done, everything is in primer, and tonight I seam sealed the doors and cut them and the door jambs on the car in. I still need to remove the quarter glasses, hang the sheet metal back on, and prep the bumper covers.
I might try for paint this weekend, but I think that may be pushing it, I'm tired.
Pics.

 

[Gravydog]

More pics

This is where I'm at for now, did I mention I'm tired. I went way farther with this car than I wanted to, this was supposed to just be a quick sand and shoot.