That's awesome and why I'm seriously interested in buys these. It's all 4 roller Jack's and the stand for $75 tax included. Not sure how much shipping is though. They appear to be hydraulic too.
Tool Review Time
- Thread starter NIKwoaC
- Start date
Thats a really low price. The pair I have I bought long time ago. I go jacked a eldorado by the front wheels and spun it out 90* by myself. I was much younger then.
they will catch on any rock/chip or floor imperfection though.
they will catch on any rock/chip or floor imperfection though.
These are the 
(specifically that brand & specifically that capacity of 2500 lbs/dolly):
.
I got some narrow ones for the front and extra wides for the rear. They're over-capacity for my car, and the casters are top-notch. I only use them on a flat concrete garage floor, but it will go over the cracks between concrete slabs. The reviews are awesome. Some say they work on the rougher style driveway concrete. They also say that the cheaper ones bend and can't handle 5k lbs cars, but these can. They do not have wheel locks. So, it's gonna roll if there's an incline. But, I do single handedly move the car around the garage when needed. It takes a little ass, and I'm a big guy, but I don't see how you're gonna push a 3200+ lbs car around on anything any easier without some sort of help. I greased up everything when I put the casters on, and I can push the car hard enough or wiggle it back and forth until the casters align, but I do recommend lining the casters up before you set the weight on if you can. They aren't cheap, but I don't believe in cheap tools other than maybe some hand stuff. I want stuff to last forever, and I believe these will.
I like those jack style ones, and would be a little interested in them, but they do take up more space.
(specifically that brand & specifically that capacity of 2500 lbs/dolly):
.
I got some narrow ones for the front and extra wides for the rear. They're over-capacity for my car, and the casters are top-notch. I only use them on a flat concrete garage floor, but it will go over the cracks between concrete slabs. The reviews are awesome. Some say they work on the rougher style driveway concrete. They also say that the cheaper ones bend and can't handle 5k lbs cars, but these can. They do not have wheel locks. So, it's gonna roll if there's an incline. But, I do single handedly move the car around the garage when needed. It takes a little ass, and I'm a big guy, but I don't see how you're gonna push a 3200+ lbs car around on anything any easier without some sort of help. I greased up everything when I put the casters on, and I can push the car hard enough or wiggle it back and forth until the casters align, but I do recommend lining the casters up before you set the weight on if you can. They aren't cheap, but I don't believe in cheap tools other than maybe some hand stuff. I want stuff to last forever, and I believe these will.
I like those jack style ones, and would be a little interested in them, but they do take up more space.
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I do a lot of electrical repairs at work, usually as part of removing aftermarket stereo or alarm equipment.
Here's a look at a few of the items in my arsenal:
www.harborfreight.com
Most crimpers/strippers of this design tend to be straight-up garbage. I've had them from Harbor Freight, WalMart, and most of the parts stores, and they've all universally sucked. That changed recently, as I bought one of these cheapies at Harbor Freight to do a backup camera install on the girlfriend's Jeep, and other than the handle grips being completely awful, they weren't so bad. They didn't twist or bend or break like I'm used to out of cheaper crimp tools.
www.matcotools.com
These are my daily go-to crimper/stripper/cutters for most jobs. While similar to the crappy design I'm sure we're all used to, they have comfortable and cushioned grips, a cutter that actually cuts, and is sturdy enough not to flex when crimping.
Amazon product ASIN B00CDDBAQUView: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5950A-Crimpro-Angled-Service/dp/B00CDDBAQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=otc+5950a&qid=1576559696&sr=8-1
Sometimes I'm stuck working on a harness under a dash or behind a bumper and just don't have the kind of room I need for my Matco crimpers. That's when these little guys are a lifesaver. They're well built, compact, and have all the features you could want.
Amazon product ASIN B006O1Y1FYView: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18960-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B006O1Y1FY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=tool+aid+crimper&qid=1576559628&sprefix=tool+aid+cr&sr=8-6
These are the Cadillac or Lexus of wire crimpers. Ratcheting action, giant cushioned handles, interchangeable dies to let you crimp virtually any kind of wire, and even specialty dies are included with more available. If I'm doing a big wiring job (like Explorer inflatable seatbelt harnesses, custom audio work, or a whole harness install) this is the tool I turn to. It's especially handy when dealing with Delphi Weatherpack connectors, Ford crimp-n-solder barrel crimps, or Chrysler's bull foldover crimps for their TIPM repair recall on 300s and Chargers. It only does one thing (crimp), but it does it exceedingly well.
Here's a look at a few of the items in my arsenal:
8 In. Four-Way Wire Crimper/Stripper Tool
Amazing deals on this 8In Four-Way Crimping Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Most crimpers/strippers of this design tend to be straight-up garbage. I've had them from Harbor Freight, WalMart, and most of the parts stores, and they've all universally sucked. That changed recently, as I bought one of these cheapies at Harbor Freight to do a backup camera install on the girlfriend's Jeep, and other than the handle grips being completely awful, they weren't so bad. They didn't twist or bend or break like I'm used to out of cheaper crimp tools.
Product not found | Matco Tools
These are my daily go-to crimper/stripper/cutters for most jobs. While similar to the crappy design I'm sure we're all used to, they have comfortable and cushioned grips, a cutter that actually cuts, and is sturdy enough not to flex when crimping.
Amazon product ASIN B00CDDBAQUView: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5950A-Crimpro-Angled-Service/dp/B00CDDBAQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=otc+5950a&qid=1576559696&sr=8-1
Sometimes I'm stuck working on a harness under a dash or behind a bumper and just don't have the kind of room I need for my Matco crimpers. That's when these little guys are a lifesaver. They're well built, compact, and have all the features you could want.
Amazon product ASIN B006O1Y1FYView: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18960-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B006O1Y1FY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=tool+aid+crimper&qid=1576559628&sprefix=tool+aid+cr&sr=8-6
These are the Cadillac or Lexus of wire crimpers. Ratcheting action, giant cushioned handles, interchangeable dies to let you crimp virtually any kind of wire, and even specialty dies are included with more available. If I'm doing a big wiring job (like Explorer inflatable seatbelt harnesses, custom audio work, or a whole harness install) this is the tool I turn to. It's especially handy when dealing with Delphi Weatherpack connectors, Ford crimp-n-solder barrel crimps, or Chrysler's bull
foldover crimps for their TIPM repair recall on 300s and Chargers. It only does one thing (crimp), but it does it exceedingly well.
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I've got a set similar to the cadillac set, but it doesn't have extra dies. Might look into seeing if mine are replaceable. I also have a wire stripper that grabs and spreads the wire sleeves and that can be cool for exposing a wire without cutting it. It's tunable to the size of the wire through a twisting knob. I'm not home for the holidays, but I'll get a pic next time I remember too.
I have a pair of NAPA wire crimpers that look just like the Matco ones. Very sturdy construction and they don't deflect when you try to crimp something. They work great and I've had them for over 20 years. The OTC 4 in 1 with the angled head looks like it would come in super handy from time to time. I might have to look into getting one.
Stumbled across this and thought I would share. I haven't bought them, so no review, but for $75 it seems like a good deal.
Rolling-Car-Jack(4 Piece Set)
About This Item In many situations it's not easy to move your car around when you are doing work on it. But if you need to move your car when it doesn't run or when you are trying to get it running, or just trying to make some extra room in your garage, the Hydraulic Vehicle Automotive Moving...duodong.myshopify.com
These work very well if you have a practical use for them. We used larger versions of these as tire dollies to remove and replace aircraft tires.
With one of these jack under each of the car tires, you can easily push a car across a shop floor.
This brake line flaring tool works very well for me! I have a few different kinds from years past and this one seems to get it done right the first try and with less effort.
Titan Tools
Amazon product ASIN B06XPRVCPVView: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=titan+tools&link_code=qs&qid=1576613505&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-23
Titan Tools
Amazon product ASIN B06XPRVCPVView: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=titan+tools&link_code=qs&qid=1576613505&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-23
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That was my thought.
After considering that particular add though I don't trust it. It was one of those things that popped up in the book of faces and I'm afraid its a scam. Price is way to low. Actually I might just delete the post to keep someone from falling for it.
After considering that particular add though I don't trust it. It was one of those things that popped up in the book of faces and I'm afraid its a scam. Price is way to low. Actually I might just delete the post to keep someone from falling for it.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Since it is the new year...let me give my review on my Kobalt 24v 1/4" impact, drill, sawzaw and flash light set. I later added the blower, weedwhip and a hedge trimmer all were bought at sale prices online.
The main reason for this set was to upgrade my aging 18v Dewalt drill, light and sawzaw. I also wanted to add a light duty impact for lug nuts, my dewalt drill was used as a impact once nuts were broke lose and was getting tired. Probably the next most popular piece I use regularly is the flashlight, there just so handy and the Kobalt is way brighter compared to the Dewalt.
This set was purchased in 2017 brand new off CL, at the time the 1/4" impact was the highest rated on the market at 150 ft lbs. The 3/8" impact uses the same body and is rated the same. I like the light weight of the 1/4", my only issue is I keep snapping off bits in high torque applications. I have been using the cheap Harbor Freight bits when they are on sale namely the 1/2" to 1/4". I have recently moved onto a higher quality bit. Battery life is decent on both the saw and impact, it's also very respectable on the blower and weed whip. The weed whip is very powerful and light, my mom in her 60's mostly uses it. The blower is fine for light jobs but nothing beats my Stihl 2 stroke.
I was recently looking at Milwaukee 18v Fuel kits for Christmas presents to upgrade my dads set. I did see there 1/4" impact was rated slightly higher at 164 ft lbs. I will look at doing a review on that set soon too.
The main reason for this set was to upgrade my aging 18v Dewalt drill, light and sawzaw. I also wanted to add a light duty impact for lug nuts, my dewalt drill was used as a impact once nuts were broke lose and was getting tired. Probably the next most popular piece I use regularly is the flashlight, there just so handy and the Kobalt is way brighter compared to the Dewalt.
This set was purchased in 2017 brand new off CL, at the time the 1/4" impact was the highest rated on the market at 150 ft lbs. The 3/8" impact uses the same body and is rated the same. I like the light weight of the 1/4", my only issue is I keep snapping off bits in high torque applications. I have been using the cheap Harbor Freight bits when they are on sale namely the 1/2" to 1/4". I have recently moved onto a higher quality bit. Battery life is decent on both the saw and impact, it's also very respectable on the blower and weed whip. The weed whip is very powerful and light, my mom in her 60's mostly uses it. The blower is fine for light jobs but nothing beats my Stihl 2 stroke.
I was recently looking at Milwaukee 18v Fuel kits for Christmas presents to upgrade my dads set. I did see there 1/4" impact was rated slightly higher at 164 ft lbs. I will look at doing a review on that set soon too.
Used these to install a scraper mod onto my two-stage snow blower without having to tear the whole thing apart:
Amazon product ASIN B0195V5ICOView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195V5ICO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No problem whatsoever cutting mild steel.
Amazon product ASIN B0195V5ICOView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195V5ICO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No problem whatsoever cutting mild steel.
The Old Stuff:
When I'm drug to the flea market, thrift stores, yard sales, etc by friends, family, or a girlfriend, I make a beeline for the tools.
These days you'll find a lot of Chinese crap, new and used, at the flea markets, but not always.
An actual US-made Crescent-brand crescent wrench, a Williams crescent wrench, and US-made Crescent pliers, total spent: $9.25
That's Harbor Freight money for quality that's simply not made anymore. Keep your eyes open for deals guys, they're still out there.
When I'm drug to the flea market, thrift stores, yard sales, etc by friends, family, or a girlfriend, I make a beeline for the tools.
These days you'll find a lot of Chinese crap, new and used, at the flea markets, but not always.
An actual US-made Crescent-brand crescent wrench, a Williams crescent wrench, and US-made Crescent pliers, total spent: $9.25
That's Harbor Freight money for quality that's simply not made anymore. Keep your eyes open for deals guys, they're still out there.
Then brother, have I got JUST the thing for YOU!
Amazon product ASIN B005EXOK22View: https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-86-03-250-SBA/dp/B005EXOK22/ref=asc_df_B005EXOK22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17744891892952512927&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026831&hvtargid=pla-491566793747&psc=1
That's right, Knipex makes a "pliers wrench".
It looks weird, but here's the thing... it works! It uses the same locking mechanism as their Cobra pliers in the middle, so when you set it to a position, it's staying. The jaws move paralell to each other, so it stays true to the sides of the object you're tightening or loosening (I use the
out of these things during alignments!) and like the Cobra and Alligator pliers, they're engineered to stay tight to what you've put them on while you're working, even though they don't lock. Even more convenient, if something is actually too tight for them, the size of the wrench you need is handily indicated on the side.It's the answer to a question I never asked before, but maybe should have.
I work on stuff for a living so I buy tools-lots of them. Sometimes people borrow them when I'm not looking and that makes me angry, very occasionally I have to replace said "borrowed" tool, and that makes me VERY angry.
Anyway....
A couple of the most used tools I own. One-mityvac MV7300 fluid extractor. Invaluable. I have found thousands of uses for it from bleeding brakes to engine oil changes. I actually change the oil in my little Mustang without getting under it, filter and all (2.3L). Stuff the tube down the dipstick hole, suck it all out, change filter, replace with new oil, done. While it's sucking oil out I can change/clean the air filter, or whatever. Some guys like beer (I do not) and the time it takes to suck 5 quarts out gives 'em enough time to go get their favorite and chug it. In my line of work, I found that using the evacuator to pull oil out of lawn mowers saves a TON (and I mean HOURS in an 8 hour work day) of time...why? Cause for one, you stuff the big tube down the dipstick hole, it pulls 3 quarts out in about 30 seconds while I change the air filter. Secondly, I never have to touch the drain bolt; and a lot of these are screwed into cheap cast aluminum and before the fluid evac, I found myself fixing more than a few engine blocks and oil pans. Not anymore. Don't even touch them now, which also saves the company (and me) some money. When I say it's an MV7300 fluid evacuator, it's actually a "version" of it...the genuine MV7300 holds about 8 quarts and it's full. Well I empty 8 quart container about 4 times a day. So....I grabbed an old 10 gal air tank, cut the brackets off and made my own using the MV7300's venturi and it's hoses. Put a couple wheels on it and a handle. Then in the center I ran a 1/2" pipe all the way down to within 1/4" of the bottom of the tank....so when you put pressure in the tank, it "pumps" the fluids out, that way I can use it all day long and just put a little air pressure in it to push it all out into the oil heater's tank (this time of year), without having to pick the heavy turd up. 10 gal of oil + the weight of the tank & wheels is about 80 lbs. No way I'm going to manually dump that every day if I can help it. Bleeding brakes is easy enough; it comes with the adapters to attach to the bleeder. Crack the bleeder turn the valve on and it will suck fluid right through the line(s). Also works for no-mess transmission fluid changes, suck all the stuff out of the pan so that when you go to remove the pan there ain't nothing left in it to go everywhere. TONS of uses! Differentials too...I don't even remove the cover anymore. No need to, stuff the tube down into the diff, let it suck for a while, refill, done. No mess. No gaskets. no scraping. Transfer case on my truck. Old gas out of motorcycle tanks. Gosh the list just goes on and on. IF you don't have one, get one. Outboard motors? Fluid evacuator to change oil (4 stroke). Jet ski oil change? Same deal. It is a must have for a lot of shops. Sometimes if I'm changing a radiator, I'll stuff the tube down the filler neck as far as I can get it, suck what I can out, and then replace the radiator. Makes less mess. Bleeding HST's on lawn mowers; another use (and THAT....works awesome).
Second most used tool is my DeWalt 1/4 impact driver. Came with the drill and batteries. I use a 3/8 drive 1/4" impact bit and use it for a 3/8 drive impact for small stuff up to about 3/8", and in my line of work that's 90% of what I do. The other 10% is 1/2" drive territory, air gun works fine for those-and it preferred actually over a heavy battery powered version.
On the pressure brake bleeder, yeah they work pretty good. Couple things. You can make them. I use an old garden sprayer with some fittings & hoses. Had to buy the adapter for the m/c. You can't just use a m/c cap with a fitting because the cap is vented out of the edge and it will make a big mess. Tried it already. Put some fluid in the bottom, pump it up to 15 psi (I put a gauge on it), hook it to the master cylinder and then turn it on. Then go to the wheel, loosen the bleeder and let it work. It doesn't take long. Don't use too much pressure on plastic master cylinder reservoirs. 15 psi is all you need. I tried with shop air pressure and that didn't go too well. Before bleeding, I suggest pulling the bleeder(s) and putting a little bit of teflon tape on the threads, but not all the way to the bottom. Just the middle. That way there's little to no chance of getting tef tape into the caliper/wheel cylinder, but it will seal up the threads enough so that your clear tube doesn't show a bunch of bubbles in it all the time, which fools you into thinking it's got a bunch of air in it. Just makes the process go easier/quicker. Some guys use grease and that works too. Oh one thing about the master cylinder adapter, clean the o-ring before putting the tool away. If you don't the next time you go to use it, the o-ring will be swelled up and you can't get it into the top of the master cylinder. Speaking from experience.
Anyway....
A couple of the most used tools I own. One-mityvac MV7300 fluid extractor. Invaluable. I have found thousands of uses for it from bleeding brakes to engine oil changes. I actually change the oil in my little Mustang without getting under it, filter and all (2.3L). Stuff the tube down the dipstick hole, suck it all out, change filter, replace with new oil, done. While it's sucking oil out I can change/clean the air filter, or whatever. Some guys like beer (I do not) and the time it takes to suck 5 quarts out gives 'em enough time to go get their favorite and chug it. In my line of work, I found that using the evacuator to pull oil out of lawn mowers saves a TON (and I mean HOURS in an 8 hour work day) of time...why? Cause for one, you stuff the big tube down the dipstick hole, it pulls 3 quarts out in about 30 seconds while I change the air filter. Secondly, I never have to touch the drain bolt; and a lot of these are screwed into cheap cast aluminum and before the fluid evac, I found myself fixing more than a few engine blocks and oil pans. Not anymore. Don't even touch them now, which also saves the company (and me) some money. When I say it's an MV7300 fluid evacuator, it's actually a "version" of it...the genuine MV7300 holds about 8 quarts and it's full. Well I empty 8 quart container about 4 times a day. So....I grabbed an old 10 gal air tank, cut the brackets off and made my own using the MV7300's venturi and it's hoses. Put a couple wheels on it and a handle. Then in the center I ran a 1/2" pipe all the way down to within 1/4" of the bottom of the tank....so when you put pressure in the tank, it "pumps" the fluids out, that way I can use it all day long and just put a little air pressure in it to push it all out into the oil heater's tank (this time of year), without having to pick the heavy turd up. 10 gal of oil + the weight of the tank & wheels is about 80 lbs. No way I'm going to manually dump that every day if I can help it. Bleeding brakes is easy enough; it comes with the adapters to attach to the bleeder. Crack the bleeder turn the valve on and it will suck fluid right through the line(s). Also works for no-mess transmission fluid changes, suck all the stuff out of the pan so that when you go to remove the pan there ain't nothing left in it to go everywhere. TONS of uses! Differentials too...I don't even remove the cover anymore. No need to, stuff the tube down into the diff, let it suck for a while, refill, done. No mess. No gaskets. no scraping. Transfer case on my truck. Old gas out of motorcycle tanks. Gosh the list just goes on and on. IF you don't have one, get one. Outboard motors? Fluid evacuator to change oil (4 stroke). Jet ski oil change? Same deal. It is a must have for a lot of shops. Sometimes if I'm changing a radiator, I'll stuff the tube down the filler neck as far as I can get it, suck what I can out, and then replace the radiator. Makes less mess. Bleeding HST's on lawn mowers; another use (and THAT....works awesome).
Second most used tool is my DeWalt 1/4 impact driver. Came with the drill and batteries. I use a 3/8 drive 1/4" impact bit and use it for a 3/8 drive impact for small stuff up to about 3/8", and in my line of work that's 90% of what I do. The other 10% is 1/2" drive territory, air gun works fine for those-and it preferred actually over a heavy battery powered version.
On the pressure brake bleeder, yeah they work pretty good. Couple things. You can make them. I use an old garden sprayer with some fittings & hoses. Had to buy the adapter for the m/c. You can't just use a m/c cap with a fitting because the cap is vented out of the edge and it will make a big mess. Tried it already. Put some fluid in the bottom, pump it up to 15 psi (I put a gauge on it), hook it to the master cylinder and then turn it on. Then go to the wheel, loosen the bleeder and let it work. It doesn't take long. Don't use too much pressure on plastic master cylinder reservoirs. 15 psi is all you need. I tried with shop air pressure and that didn't go too well. Before bleeding, I suggest pulling the bleeder(s) and putting a little bit of teflon tape on the threads, but not all the way to the bottom. Just the middle. That way there's little to no chance of getting tef tape into the caliper/wheel cylinder, but it will seal up the threads enough so that your clear tube doesn't show a bunch of bubbles in it all the time, which fools you into thinking it's got a bunch of air in it. Just makes the process go easier/quicker. Some guys use grease and that works too. Oh one thing about the master cylinder adapter, clean the o-ring before putting the tool away. If you don't the next time you go to use it, the o-ring will be swelled up and you can't get it into the top of the master cylinder. Speaking from experience.
On the super duty LED light bar, if you don't have to run a front license plate, remove the bracket for it and a 20" light bar just fits into the slot behind it. I have one in mine, looks factory. Had to make brackets but it wasn't hard. I have it wired into the fog light wires so you just pull the headlight switch and bingo, plenty of lighting for off-road stuff. Mine is a 2003, I think 99-07? had the same bumper and slot in the middle as I recall. I should have gotten a curved bar but this one's plenty for what I need it for. When I put it in I was thinking gosh, 8000 lumens is going to make some people mad if I use it on the streets but nowadays all the factory cars/trucks come with LED lighting which blinds basically everybody anyway so 8,000 lumens of light bar is nothing now. But still better than just the headlights.
Harbor Freight Hot Knife
www.harborfreight.com
It's been dead at work thanks to Covid-19... So I've had a little free-time to do something I've always wanted to do; shadow some of the drawers in the toolbox.
I did the first drawer the old-fashioned way, with a utility knife, and it turned out quite nice:
The only problem was, it was time-consuming as hell, because the foam mats I'm using are incredibly dense.
I needed a faster method, so I bought the hot knife at Harbor Freight, and did this drawer next:
The cuts aren't as clean, and the details are a little jagged, but it was SO much faster, and I got better at it as I went along, soon making cut-outs that rivaled those done with the utility knife in the wrench drawer.
After perfecting my technique, I was able to do this:
Bottom line is, Harbor Freight's hot knife works great. The only downsides are that it feels flimsy and cheap (but it is, in truth relatively durable, it survived being dropped from about 3 feet onto the hard floor of the shop the other day), it takes awhile (about 3 minutes) to warm up initially, and the guard/depth-guide on it needs different screws if you're going to get them tight enough to hold it in position.
The secret to cutting these:
www.harborfreight.com
was to never let it cool all the way down while using it, and to use the edge at the end of the "blade" at an angle, almost like a utility knife, pushing it through the foam. I frequently found it easier to hold it inverted to get the detail work done due to the angle of the handle.
I'm overall very happy with the performance of the knife, and I'm glad I found the Youtube video of a guy that used the anti-fatigue mats to shadow his box, because these mats are a LOT cheaper than Kaizen foam.
130 Watt Hot Knife
Amazing deals on this 130W Hot Knife at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
It's been dead at work thanks to Covid-19... So I've had a little free-time to do something I've always wanted to do; shadow some of the drawers in the toolbox.
I did the first drawer the old-fashioned way, with a utility knife, and it turned out quite nice:
The only problem was, it was time-consuming as hell, because the foam mats I'm using are incredibly dense.
I needed a faster method, so I bought the hot knife at Harbor Freight, and did this drawer next:
The cuts aren't as clean, and the details are a little jagged, but it was SO much faster, and I got better at it as I went along, soon making cut-outs that rivaled those done with the utility knife in the wrench drawer.
After perfecting my technique, I was able to do this:
Bottom line is, Harbor Freight's hot knife works great. The only downsides are that it feels flimsy and cheap (but it is, in truth relatively durable, it survived being dropped from about 3 feet onto the hard floor of the shop the other day), it takes awhile (about 3 minutes) to warm up initially, and the guard/depth-guide on it needs different screws if you're going to get them tight enough to hold it in position.
The secret to cutting these:
Anti-Fatigue Foam Mat Set, 4 Pack
Amazing deals on this Anti-Fatigue Foam Mat Set 4Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
was to never let it cool all the way down while using it, and to use the edge at the end of the "blade" at an angle, almost like a utility knife, pushing it through the foam. I frequently found it easier to hold it inverted to get the detail work done due to the angle of the handle.
I'm overall very happy with the performance of the knife, and I'm glad I found the Youtube video of a guy that used the anti-fatigue mats to shadow his box, because these mats are a LOT cheaper than Kaizen foam.
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Various tools that I've really appreciated lately:
Amazon product ASIN B01G31X8IKView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G31X8IK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Olsa tools has got a pretty nifty lineup of tool storage solutions available. They also sell a lot of gimmick-y and crappy-looking tools, that I'll admit, I've never tried, so I can't judge other than by how they look. Their storage solutions, however, are top notch, and I'm a huge fan of their aluminum socket rails. For the sets that don't warrant a full Hansen or Westling socket tray, these aluminum rails work really well, and unlike a lot of other socket rails out there with plastic holders, these aren't flimsy and don't fall apart.
Amazon product ASIN B07SM1KHXQView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SM1KHXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ABN (Short for "Auto Body Now", of all things) has a fairly big presence on Amazon in the tools market. Among the things they sell are socket rails that are identical in every single way to the ones being sold by Olsa (which, to be fair, is also identical to the one included with my Astro Pneumatic stubby 3/8s socket set). Remember when @Noobz347 posted that video about who owns and makes what tools and I mentioned it was even more complicated than that and that the video (which was very recent at the time) was already out of date? A lot of your tool brands are buying certain things in bulk from the same factories in China and slapping their sticker on the package these days, and this is an example of that. I'm not complaining though, because once I caught on, it meant finding the best deal on a particular item actually got easier.
Amazon product ASIN B0195PCN7SView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195PCN7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ABN also sells these nifty relay pulling pliers. Not only do they work for relays, but I've found them to be FANTASTIC for removing ignition coils on BMWs at work. Those little jaws look thin (and they are) but they're strong. These were a welcome addition to the toolbox.
Amazon product ASIN B00SX5RSA4View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX5RSA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yet another product sold under the ABN brand, I bought this to do struts on my mom's Taurus in her driveway, figuring they'd suck, but they were cheaper than the loaner tool from the parts store, and because the Taurus's suspension design sucks, I knew I'd need it again. It's actually a perfectly good tool for the job. The locking pins were inserted backward at the factory, but that was nothing I couldn't fix in five minutes, and they held up fine. I even used them again on another car. They don't get used at the shop, because we've got a full-size wall-mounted spring compressor there, but for stuff at the house? They've worked perfectly fine, and better yet, no missing parts or bent or broken pieces on a parts store loaner.
Amazon product ASIN B003YVWHOEView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVWHOE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This tool made me look like the GOD of steering and suspension when I was at Carmax. I got a lot of years and service out of this little gadget, until it finally met it's match on a Ford Fusion. All other cars, trucks, and SUVs, it made a mockery of, simply put a 24mm socket on the end and use any of my impact wrenches to pop ball joints are tie rod ends loose with zero effort. The Fusion with the double lower control arms actually broke this little jewel... and then a pry bar... and damned near my spirit. For all other applications I've ever tried this tool on, it was more than up to the challenge, even on some 3/4 ton trucks. Just don't try to use it on a Fusion/Milan!
Amazon product ASIN B00004Z2MIView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z2MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
FordtechMakuloco recommended this little "cat's claw" as mechanics call it, in one of his videos. I'd had a few others, even had (and still have) an expensive one from Lisle that worked well, but it was just too big for some clips, and all of the other smaller ones I tried sucked, and all of the other smaller ones I found that probably didn't suck cost way too much for what they were (more than the $20 I paid for the Lisle tool). This little guy goes for less than $6.00 on Amazon (and I've seen it for much less at times) on any given day, and after two years of using it, I don't know what the hell I ever did without it. It's a fantastic little tool for removing those pesky plastic trim clips, for prying small trim, unlocking safety catches on electrical connections, prying loose electrical connections, and for popping loose weatherstripping that snaps to the panel its on in one piece. I use it a LOT. Great Neck has made a lot of junky tools over the years (especially the stuff they used to sell at Autozone), but this isn't one of them, this is one fantastic tool. This is seriously right up there with that little bit ratchet I raved about earlier in this thread, if you work on anything new enough to have any of the uses I just mentioned, you almost can't afford NOT to have this tool at the price!
Amazon product ASIN B01G31X8IKView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G31X8IK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Olsa tools has got a pretty nifty lineup of tool storage solutions available. They also sell a lot of gimmick-y and crappy-looking tools, that I'll admit, I've never tried, so I can't judge other than by how they look. Their storage solutions, however, are top notch, and I'm a huge fan of their aluminum socket rails. For the sets that don't warrant a full Hansen or Westling socket tray, these aluminum rails work really well, and unlike a lot of other socket rails out there with plastic holders, these aren't flimsy and don't fall apart.
Amazon product ASIN B07SM1KHXQView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SM1KHXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ABN (Short for "Auto Body Now", of all things) has a fairly big presence on Amazon in the tools market. Among the things they sell are socket rails that are identical in every single way to the ones being sold by Olsa (which, to be fair, is also identical to the one included with my Astro Pneumatic stubby 3/8s socket set). Remember when @Noobz347 posted that video about who owns and makes what tools and I mentioned it was even more complicated than that and that the video (which was very recent at the time) was already out of date? A lot of your tool brands are buying certain things in bulk from the same factories in China and slapping their sticker on the package these days, and this is an example of that. I'm not complaining though, because once I caught on, it meant finding the best deal on a particular item actually got easier.
Amazon product ASIN B0195PCN7SView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195PCN7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ABN also sells these nifty relay pulling pliers. Not only do they work for relays, but I've found them to be FANTASTIC for removing ignition coils on BMWs at work. Those little jaws look thin (and they are) but they're strong. These were a welcome addition to the toolbox.
Amazon product ASIN B00SX5RSA4View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX5RSA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yet another product sold under the ABN brand, I bought this to do struts on my mom's Taurus in her driveway, figuring they'd suck, but they were cheaper than the loaner tool from the parts store, and because the Taurus's suspension design sucks, I knew I'd need it again. It's actually a perfectly good tool for the job. The locking pins were inserted backward at the factory, but that was nothing I couldn't fix in five minutes, and they held up fine. I even used them again on another car. They don't get used at the shop, because we've got a full-size wall-mounted spring compressor there, but for stuff at the house? They've worked perfectly fine, and better yet, no missing parts or bent or broken pieces on a parts store loaner.
Amazon product ASIN B003YVWHOEView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVWHOE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This tool made me look like the GOD of steering and suspension when I was at Carmax. I got a lot of years and service out of this little gadget, until it finally met it's match on a Ford Fusion. All other cars, trucks, and SUVs, it made a mockery of, simply put a 24mm socket on the end and use any of my impact wrenches to pop ball joints are tie rod ends loose with zero effort. The Fusion with the double lower control arms actually broke this little jewel... and then a pry bar... and damned near my spirit. For all other applications I've ever tried this tool on, it was more than up to the challenge, even on some 3/4 ton trucks. Just don't try to use it on a Fusion/Milan!
Amazon product ASIN B00004Z2MIView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z2MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
FordtechMakuloco recommended this little "cat's claw" as mechanics call it, in one of his videos. I'd had a few others, even had (and still have) an expensive one from Lisle that worked well, but it was just too big for some clips, and all of the other smaller ones I tried sucked, and all of the other smaller ones I found that probably didn't suck cost way too much for what they were (more than the $20 I paid for the Lisle tool). This little guy goes for less than $6.00 on Amazon (and I've seen it for much less at times) on any given day, and after two years of using it, I don't know what the hell I ever did without it. It's a fantastic little tool for removing those pesky plastic trim clips, for prying small trim, unlocking safety catches on electrical connections, prying loose electrical connections, and for popping loose weatherstripping that snaps to the panel its on in one piece. I use it a LOT. Great Neck has made a lot of junky tools over the years (especially the stuff they used to sell at Autozone), but this isn't one of them, this is one fantastic tool. This is seriously right up there with that little bit ratchet I raved about earlier in this thread, if you work on anything new enough to have any of the uses I just mentioned, you almost can't afford NOT to have this tool at the price!
Workshop Hero 1 Gal. Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath WH290487 - The Home Depot
Workshop Hero Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath is designed to remove rust from iron and steel. Easy to dispose and maintain.
www.homedepot.com
I've tried Evap-O-Rust, naval jelly, and all the other potions that claim to get rid of rust easily, and have always been less than satisfied with the results.
Then I tried this stuff.
The first two pictures are of the previously VERY rusty fuel filler for my Mustang II. I really wish I'd taken a "before" photo so you could see the difference three hours of soak time in this product made.
The last is the rusty Crescent wrench from earlier in the thread that I picked up at the flea market. I left it half-in half-out overnight, and you can REALLY see the difference!
This stuff just... Works!
EDIT: Here's the wrench after removing it from it's bath and giving it a once-over with a wire brush. The thumbwheel needs a little more soak time.
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Please don't take this the wrong way, but I love your drawers.Harbor Freight Hot Knife
130 Watt Hot Knife
Amazing deals on this 130W Hot Knife at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
It's been dead at work thanks to Covid-19... So I've had a little free-time to do something I've always wanted to do; shadow some of the drawers in the toolbox.
I did the first drawer the old-fashioned way, with a utility knife, and it turned out quite nice:
The only problem was, it was time-consuming as hell, because the foam mats I'm using are incredibly dense.
I needed a faster method, so I bought the hot knife at Harbor Freight, and did this drawer next:
The cuts aren't as clean, and the details are a little jagged, but it was SO much faster, and I got better at it as I went along, soon making cut-outs that rivaled those done with the utility knife in the wrench drawer.
After perfecting my technique, I was able to do this:
Bottom line is, Harbor Freight's hot knife works great. The only downsides are that it feels flimsy and cheap (but it is, in truth relatively durable, it survived being dropped from about 3 feet onto the hard floor of the shop the other day), it takes awhile (about 3 minutes) to warm up initially, and the guard/depth-guide on it needs different screws if you're going to get them tight enough to hold it in position.
The secret to cutting these:
Anti-Fatigue Foam Mat Set, 4 Pack
Amazing deals on this Anti-Fatigue Foam Mat Set 4Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
was to never let it cool all the way down while using it, and to use the edge at the end of the "blade" at an angle, almost like a utility knife, pushing it through the foam. I frequently found it easier to hold it inverted to get the detail work done due to the angle of the handle.
I'm overall very happy with the performance of the knife, and I'm glad I found the Youtube video of a guy that used the anti-fatigue mats to shadow his box, because these mats are a LOT cheaper than Kaizen foam.
Oh, and thanks for introducing me to the Knipex Pliers Wrench. I needed to spend more money on tools, despite what my wife says.
