Hi,
I’d Check the below, if done- move on. Decide if replacing EEC Cap’s is what you want to do..
, I’ve seen that-specific Cap fail and similar issues to what your experiencing occur, EEC should have been “self tested”, a code 11 is the “all clear” EEC status.
- I’ve also seen the SPOUT pins/socket Oxidized, spray with CRC electrical cleaner, tighten pins up.
- A loose wire test Also do it, a Tug test is another good check.
-A PIP issue if an OE type usually works or not, generally affects injectors and Ignition, but doesn’t follow rules.
-Grounds or intermittent problems are difficult to pin down.
- The 2 salt & pepper shakers both have EEC wires crucial passing throug, pull apart, clean well, tighten up loose pin(s) gently with a ‘“small jewelers screwdriver.
The EEC is enerally he last spot you would seek out an issue, if troubleshooting leads you there, it is what it is, IMO, I wouldn’t purchase electronic components from EBay any more than a rebuilt engine, but that’s your Call- I’d message the seller & jot down theitalled Electrolytic Cap values and Mfg, source, see if they’re properly sealed, packaged, view buyer commen
Digi-Key or Mouser electronics.
-Digi-Key will stock the Electrolytic Cap’s you need with no minimum.
May be 50-75 cents each + Shipping, which can combined.
Capacitor substitution.
In some
(few exceptions) circumstances you may utilize a higher
Voltage rating than
on the nomenclature of replacement Electrolytic Cap’s safely in use.In THIS (your). instance, is an example where you can utilize a higher.Voltage.
NEVER substitute any Capacitor with a higher/lower Voltage or other rating(s) than identical labels l what you’re replacing, unless you have the electronic diagram. and clearly understand what you’re reading.The SAME part values are non Capacitance (Microfarads). The voltage (16V) (110 Degrees Celsius), and tolerance (20%).
Digi-Key: CAP ALUM 47UF 25V 20% RADIAL P/N # P14411-ND
Soldering on a PCB...
As bad solder joints- or leaky, overheated or old Electrolytic Cap’s begin to fail, it may no longer provide the correct value(S) reflected on rated in Milli, Nano, Micro, Pico- portions of a FARAD, as the VALUE required is sized significantly LESS than (1) Farad. Just FYI.
OBD-0,OBD-1, OBD-2 EEC’s....
Many older CPU’s and similar
sensitive equipment ran large electrolytic capacitors to maintain balance in various DC power circuits to smooth out ‘surges and spikes’ to a minimum & provide clean “ripple free” Voltage prior to implementation of more modern IC regulators, other modern components which are necessity in newer Digital circuits requiring very clean now utilized.
Electrolytic capacitors being one of the methods utilized in the 80’s, early 90’s in maintaining clean DC power with minimal surges and spikes, used in injectors, ignition, sensors,& 02 circuits regulated under heavy demand.
Replacing the Components on the PCB
You can surely replace the Cap’s on your own carefully and noting polarity with a small pencil iron (<40W) with a wet sponge, a small can of tip cleaning Flux, a and solder sucker, a few small picks & micro pliers, not terribly difficult to execute - but one oversight- very unforgiving.Too much heat may migrate- damaging nearby components, lift traces, etc..Too little contaminates new joints, may not conduct electricity correct (“Cold Solder joint”) may connect things not intended to be, destroying a CPU.Hard to find, expensive.
Following board traces & seeking damage the traces to verify no existing damage has occurred is a tedious task, time consuming.
J3 Connector on your PCB.
I was viewing the J3 traces on the rear of the board where you’d install a chipset as it looked unusual, but it looks fine, still has the coating on the pins is all. These are cleaned off of all coating when when installing a chip.No Chip, leave it as is (
FIGURE A).
Check your (60) Pun connector & make certain the pins fit snugly and no media exists, that will cause serious headaches.
FIGURE A (Above..J3 Connector)
I’d strongly consider sending it off to be repaired if you’re new to this.
It’s not difficult to perform, not doubting any abilities, but a simple error may cost you a Computer. Yes, all the Electrolytic Capacitors should be replaced,
I replace these when I rechip an EEC, and Electrolytic capacitors in all other CPU’s of the 80’s- mid 90’s Genre’,(OBD-1, not OBD-2).
There are certainly issues like yours caused by a bad PCB Capacitor. It’s an issue that should be repaired, then move forward with your troubleshooting, if the issue persists..
I’d suggest cleaning the SPOUT pins and socket, and also replace all the Electrolytic Capacitors on the PCB. Once it’s completed, do a self test to verify the EEC gives you a Code 11.(clear).
Doing the job yourself, or farming it out to someone that does this work frequently....
These Capacitor are 20+ yrs old and reassemble (if you feel comfortable in doing such, I’d order the parts from Digi-Key, and replace the Capacitor(s) yourself- it’s not difficult with the right tools.
It’s important to mention that although the removal and install is not difficult, Electrolytic Capacitors are very dangerous if the (+) and (-) polarity is not correct when installing , or the capacitors legs contact one another, Installed incorrectly, they will melt the traces on the circuit board & these Capacitors of type will highly likely explode, covering your face in boiling hot
oil.
IF You’re Skilled in this area, options to keep costs down..
Any doubts whatsoever, just send it to one familiar with electronics work.- a local TV repair shop is easily capable of acquiring decent replacement capacitors and correctly replacing these, It’s Cheap insurance.
EEC’s are expensive. Practice and perfecting your skills while reading or watching actual learning materials, I suggest not relying on you Tube, many things are attempted and some performed right and others dead wrong- who’s to Grade which is right or wrong- nobody. Much smarter if you get a locatvTV repair Shop to do the work, or a Computer repair shop with the right tools, you can order the parts, or get a component total price list and compare is say </=10$, shipped- for all.
Ask him if you can watch if you want to get some pointers. Do t send it to be gone through, just replace the Caps. Get a can of canned air to blow off any media off the PCB, no oil- clean air. Used in electronics work.
Work on small circuits.that are single sided component boards, work your way up to dual sided component boards with surface mount components from anything. Practice Preparation, soldering and resoldering. Buy the cheap tools I’d listed. All you need.
If you are familiar with all aspects of the procedure, and have the tools to correctly perform the task, you take your time and verify parts and polarity/installation as correct when doing the job, if they are soldered in incorrectly, know the hazards involved.
I’d never purchase electronic components from EBay, only from a trusted professional level source as listed above.
I’m not questioning your abilities, not in the least, but why take achance-right ?
Walk into a shop and ask, you may be quite surprised in how easy it all is. They May have these in stock.
Electrolytic Capacitors &!Construction/Destruction, lol!
Electrolytic Capacitors are the only type that will explode, containing fluid that may cause burns. always wear eyes/face protection. Some Capacitors have a Bleeder Resistor across the Capacitor to slowly discharge it over a short period of time, (30 Minutes</=). Measure with a voltmeter.Some do-have bleeders, some don’t.
You may already know this, but just in case-....
They can store enough energy to kill is the voltage and current is adequate, l30V at 1/10th of an amp across the chest can cause a human heart to stop, or be thrown out of rhythm, which must be reset with a defibrillator by a Physician. This is a lethal Arrhythmia that may cause Cardiac arrest.
Below is the J3 Connector, is coated as should be until an alternative chip is installed and programmed for modifications made.
EEC Connector pins, Visually Inspect for any worn or dirty connector or board connection issues, do not touch pins unless on an earth grounded mat with a Wrist strap. Use caution, pins are uncoated with shellac as on remaining board is for clean connector contact when installed.
I’d viewed your traces & saw it looked OK, but you must look yourself to be sure all is well,
Good luck, ask questions if uncertain, I’ll help how I can, others will likely bring up better points.
Best!
-John