I'm on a Coyote swap Foxbody group with 100s if not 1000s of swaps on it. I have never seen someone use the factory ecu; it's always been the control pack or a stand alone. There has to be a reason for that.
Kurt
Kurt
My buddy has a full gen 3 including the dash in his car . Remote start , trunk popper works everything .I'm on a Coyote swap Foxbody group with 100s if not 1000s of swaps on it. I have never seen someone use the factory ecu; it's always been the control pack or a stand alone. There has to be a reason for that.
Kurt
My buddy has a full gen 3 including the dash in his car . Remote start , trunk popper works everything .
rob at palm beach dyno did the tune for it.
Yes he bought a complete wreck.Assuming he had a donor car? That's the key that I've seen in the tune, you have to have a majority of the body modules/ect to get it work, but it has been done. That's why I wasn't trying to discourage that guy, just let him know it's not as easy as getting the control pack.
I think the biggest concern here should be what if you buy all the stock stuff, spends days or weeks trying to make it run, then fail.
Not only will you be out all the money, but all the time and likely at this point frustration could derail the entire project.
When I did my swap, there wasn't much out there for swapping between mod motors and foxbody's.
While it did only take about 7 wires to make it run, that was months of reading diagrams from 2 cars and having 2 guys that work on mustangs for a living giving me advice and shop time (along with no cost tuning and dyno time). And that was an engine less complex and less computer controlled.
When I was done I had a harness that was lightened by about 75%.
In 2020 I likely would not do it the same way.
Running the fuel system return style was a no brainer to me.
I wouldn't be surprised if you could just use stock fox fuel lines with AN adapters with a 155lph pump and aeromotive regulator.
I truly wouldn't be surprised if in the end, the control pack turned out to be the cheaper solution.
eight5fox's total of 7k, sounds like a financial victory to me...
For the price of the control pack, I’d seriously consider the terminator x or ms3 gold box myself. Both are better options than the ford control pack imo. I’d take the option that I can tune over the ford unit. Not bashing the control pack or anything, I just know there are better options for the money.Id just buy the control pack it will save you lots of headaches and time I did the entire swap for around 7k with a tune that was before upgrading to a t56 and i did everything on a budget
For the price of the control pack, I’d seriously consider the terminator x or ms3 gold box myself. Both are better options than the ford control pack imo. I’d take the option that I can tune over the ford unit. Not bashing the control pack or anything, I just know there are better options for the money.
I’m sure they are, but it’s not like you can plug your laptop into the control pack without dropping cash on hp tuners to do so. The Holley terminator x software is free, and tuner studios is $30. Hp tuners is significantly more expensive than that.I've gotten the opposite impression. There are guys putting over 1000hp down with the control pack.
Kurt
I’m sure they are, but it’s not like you can plug your laptop into the control pack without dropping cash on hp tuners to do so. The Holley terminator x software is free, and tuner studios is $30. Hp tuners is significantly more expensive than that.
Imo, why limit yourself to essentially a stock eec when aftermarket standalone is the same price, If not cheaper.
I’m sure if you have a stock coyote and you plug in the ford control pack it’ll run great. If you plan on doing anything else down the line, you’ll be happy you never spent money on such a system though.
The hp tuners program for the control pack is $500 by itself. Terminator x is cheaper. A gold box is $1200, plus $200 for a wideband and another $30 for tuner studios. That’s the cheapest option and has way more options for i/o.I'm up in the air about that myself. I'm not sure which way is better. The control pack with HP tuners is still cheaper than the $2k for the Terminator X though.
Kurt
The hp tuners program for the control pack is $500 by itself. Terminator x is cheaper. A gold box is $1200, plus $200 for a wideband and another $30 for tuner studios. That’s the cheapest option and has way more options for i/o.
IMO, really depends on what you're doing and what you already have as far as parts. If you need the additional I/O and control, then go stand alone. You can do digital dashes with the control pack, there are some options out there. The control pack comes with the relay box, wideband sensors, MAF, and pedal, so factor that all together and the control pack is a deal for all that you get. If you already have that stuff and/or are planning to upgrade, go stand alone.
Out of curiosity, which control setup is more plug and play that doesn't require extra purchases?
While I've seen (not personally used) the control pack, it really appears to be very simple, even for amateurs.
Is the control pack compatible with the engine from a gt350?
The ford control pack most likely. Reading through the terminator x though, it doesn’t appear to be much further away. It comes with wideband, as well at the variable cam controller. I kind of like that it gives you options to run the maf or sd, without needing any modification to the harness.Out of curiosity, which control setup is more plug and play that doesn't require extra purchases?
While I've seen (not personally used) the control pack, it really appears to be very simple, even for amateurs.
Is the control pack compatible with the engine from a gt350?
Hey everyone,
This is an old post but relevant to what I'm doing. Are there any build threads that detail using the stock PCM and harness? I'm looking at doing a Coyote swap into an E90 BMW but I live in Germany and the requirements are really stringent. I have to use all factory controls as well as the complete donor engine, transmission, differential, and cats. Otherwise the car has to go through emissions certification and even electromagnetic interference testing. So a stand alone ECU is not really viable. I even checked with Holley and they do not certify the Terminator to any kind of EMI standard. So I'm curious what's involved in using the stock PCM. Maybe the unnecessary body modules can be disabled or spoofed with a CAN BUS module. Thanks for any tips.