Hi,
I can Identity,, not driving your Pony is ifrustrating. What other codes have you seen in the past? Do you have a pic of the engine department to post
Whether modded NA, forced induction, or bone stock, all 0BD-0,1,or 2’s CPU program’s can be modified for improved performance.
You can gain 50HP+ tuning a stock 5.0 HO Mustang ang, or more with a cool air intake & modded exhaust- more. You’ll get better throttle response, drivability, and Want a baseline HP/TW reading?,
use G force to 60 MPH, easily calculated into gross & net numbers. Any smartphone will have the App. The tunand some bolt-ones, including 24lb injectors, MAF, 300HP is achievable . Injectors you must size up to #24’s- (good for 325HP).where your stock ones are good-for 260HP, which that motor is seeing stock. This may be why the
IIf I were giving one advice with money burning a hole in their differential gears to 4.10’s. Best bang for the buck
.
injectors are good .
#19’s are pretty maxed out at the 260HP the bar made, bone stock-2+
has been coaxed out of them.
You can buy a handheld SCT and have free custom tunes every time you make a modification- unlimited tunes, for free. long as you own it.Ask me about tuning options.
Best bet & the most popular so far is to buy a Holley Terminator X kit. It replaces your stock EEC, and will actually self program. Comes with a simple harness, and you can alter any parameter,, it won’t let you make dangerous adjustments, comes with a remote touchscreen & a Wizard that explains things as you adjust them. No prior Tuning experience, install is plug & play simple. Check it out!(you tube).
Ford tuned the 5.0’s gently from the
& net numbers. Any smartphone will have the App..
Note: If a Battery gets low from sitting, it can corrupt a tune, and make it run awful.
You mentioned the car isn’t driven a lot, how old is the Gas in the Tank?
Dfuel pressure to 38Lns via Regulator?
stock #19ln are inivadive injectosv may have Flow stronger
Consider the car’s running a tune. Stock HP is 260, the injector duty cycle should never exceed 85%, exactly 260HP. If someone desires to do this the Wrong way, they increase the fuel pressure to make the 19lb-260hp@85% duty cycle, it may help- but absolutely incorrect way to do it
That explains the 50+LB fuel pressure setting, should be 38lbs.
Keep this in mind, I’d bet this is the case.
IMO, Find your core current issue, as you’re doing,- then we’ll look at the chronic issue.
If readings are badly affected, we’ll need to address them now. Did the Seller have a handheld rogrammer tht came with ‘tis, r did he mention nothing you may find ore info if you call him bac & ask”Was there a handheld programmer you bought with this Car, SCT, BAMA,HP Tuners, Diablo, .
It may of had dynotuning, some sell a handheld with a copy of the stock program, and the new one
.Others:
When watching live data and in closed loop you see an upstream 02 sensor remain at one value (or “Peg”), more often or not it’s an indication of that 02 sensor being a failed component. Not running Cat’s on the H-pipe that's installed?
I realize that this wasn’t installed by you, but just FYI, running modern high flow Catalytic converter(s) will cause no discernible HP/TQ losses while keeping combustion by products at bay.
Some eliminate the rear 02 sensors via programming, or add reluctors to the rear 02’s, “tricking” the EEC into believing Cat’s areperforming their function.
Some work, most don’t.
Front 02 sensors in 2004 and earlier vehicles are what the EEC
relies upon for A/F adjusting ratio’s.
Your DTC is suggesting bank 2 is lean..
If the intake gasket on bank 2 side, or exhaust leak, an injector’s o-ring is leaking, those types of things may cause an
overall lean condition.
Testing: Some throw codes, some don’t, some intermittent. If you have a flashing code while accelerating, it means a cylinder is misfiring due to a weak spark, dirty/bad plug, leaky or bad injector.
1) The O2 heaters are bad
2) There's a wiring issue to/from the O2 sensors.(sometimes they melt on exhaust).
3) Of course a bad sensor itself.
4) Exhaust leak before the front O2 sensors, including header/exh. manifold gaskets..
5) O2 sensors are located too far away from the Motor (not enough heat in the exhaust).
6) Leak on one side valve cover gasket.
7) Clogged fuel injector, bank #2.
8) Intermittent Coil
9) Leaky spark
10) Plug wire arcing, run the car in the dark, you’ll see it.
11) When there is a problem with a vehicle, History proves that aftermarket ignition components are theme most likely to fail. Are you also running an MSD box? Disconnect/bypass it if possible. Check Coils resistance with a VOM.Coils- correct?
Swap bank 1’s injector with bank 2’s, see if you get a code from bank 1. Then, it’s the 02 sensor for certain.
It’s common for some to get this, I’ll say it. Upstream sensor is the one closer to the beginning of the exhaust, the downstream- furthest from the motor.
Good luck, post any other questions Half asleep, hope some content helps, see what you find. ALL Dynotunes at minimal, give you a copy of the program so you can load it into your handheld, which they generally furnish for you.
Best!
John
Want a baseline HP/TW reading?, You can time and use G force to 60 MPH, easily calculated into gross & net numbers. Any smartphone will have the App.