Engine Questions...Preference of rear main crank seal/sleeve kit and clutch?

Gs1987GT

Active Member
Sep 25, 2019
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MidAtlantic
Hello Gents, Good Morning,

I am getting ready to order some parts for my car and have a few questions.

- I believe the rear main crank seal is leaking. I would like to install a new seal and figured I might as well install a sleeve right away. What are your preferences for brand/type for the sleeve/seal kit? Any install tips would be appreciated.

- I figured I'd install a new clutch while I have everything apart. My engine is stock, no future plans for mods at this time. I am looking for a stock replacement clutch with light pedal effort. Suggestions would be appreciated here also (brand and or kit that includes the throw out and pilot bearings, new clutch fork and pivot stud, maybe a flywheel also and maybe a hardened transmission input shaft cover (sorry, its early and the name of that part escapes me now) the throw out bearing slides on if it has wear or damage.

Thanks for your help

Sincerely,
Greg
 
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Yes, a 4" PCV cap works for the seal. The tool was to install the sleeve. It's a peice of PCV machine to capture the edge of the sleeve and allow you tap it all the way on and clear the block/pan
 
Understood, thanks. I'll have to take a look at it then and see.

I am assuming it's the rear main based on where the leak is located. If it happens to be rear of the intake and the rear main is dry, should I still sleeve the crank anyway based on age?
 
It's a roll of the dice. I tend to lean toward the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of things, but at the same time i understand what a PITA it is to get back to the RMS if it does start leaking. nevertheless, i would only sleeve if you see actual wear grooves in the crank, otherwise i would just do the seal only. Just my opinion however.
 
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The federal mogul sleeve from Rock auto includes the "tool". I used a Motorcraft seal. I put a film of blue locktite on the crank before the sleeve. Then black RTV on the flywheel bolts. Car has only moved only maybe 50 miles, but quite a few starts, no leaking so far. I used a sleeve even though there was no scoring on the crank. Car only has 7xxx miles, and leaked pretty good.

Clutch, I used a Ford performance clutch /pressure plate. good enough for my needs.
 
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stock car? Just get teh Autozone clutch and pressure plate with the lifetime warranty for like $100. Rear main seal- the Felpro one usually works, don't install it dry and I put a light film of RTV on it. Everyone has a different method on these but 50% of the time they leak anyway.
 
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stock car? Just get teh Autozone clutch and pressure plate with the lifetime warranty for like $100. Rear main seal- the Felpro one usually works, don't install it dry and I put a light film of RTV on it. Everyone has a different method on these but 50% of the time they leak anyway.
Yes sir, stock engine. Thanks for your reply and thoughts, I appreciate them.
 
Good morning.

Dumb question, but doesn't the Ford kit come with the release fork and new ball stud anymore? I thought back in the day the Ford motorsport kit had the disc, pressure plate, TO bearing, release fork and ball stud, maybe pilot bearing also? (I searched and it no longer appears to?)

Its been over 20 yrs so I could be incorrect. Thanks guys.
 
Copy that, thanks Sir.

Assuming it's still a good idea to replace the fork and stud with the rest of the components? I believe that's what I did in years past.

The car had just over 60k on it, but it is 34 yrs old now. I put a new cable on it last year, it has an adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster on it also. I figure that way everything will be tight.

Do they still offer a hardened Input shaft bearing retainer? I won't know what wear mine has until I get it all torn down, but was wondering.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Given the cheap cost of those parts from the above source, I did replace them all when I did my recent rebuild. My stud was visibly worn however so that was a no brainer. Who knows how long Ford will continue to make these parts so you may not get the opportunity to do it in the future

they do still make steel bearing retainers but I don’t have a source.
 
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Given the cheap cost of those parts from the above source, I did replace them all when I did my recent rebuild. My stud was visibly worn however so that was a no brainer. Who knows how long Ford will continue to make these parts so you may not get the opportunity to do it in the future

they do still make steel bearing retainers but I don’t have a source.

Excellent. Yes, agreed they are reasonable. I appreciate the help
 
Follow up questions....


In the links provided, the release fork for my 87 is still available. The ball pivot is for 94 and up. They have no fixed pivots for my 87.

I found that LMR has both a release fork and the correct pivot available. Are they ok to use? I figure it may be better to buy a matched set than use the Ford fork with the lmr ball pivot?

Unless the LMR quality is no good.

I plan on ordering the bearings and some other parts this weekend so that would be good to know.

Thanks again
 
That Ford ball pivot is the one I used. It matched exactly to the original pivot in my fox bellhousing. I just had to swap the washer over.



Other sites list the stud as 79-04 except cobra. No idea why tasca lists ot
 
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