Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build

I'm a huge fan of Coyote swap. The comparible cost completely over looks the value of your time though. A Coyote swap takes real time, where a crate motor is a drop in with a far lower time investment. Some people make cost suggestions without the understanding of how much free time different people have. Congrats on choosing a crate engine; I have lost many hours of my life coordinating with machine shops, and getting parts where they need to go. There is a lot to be said for swiping your card, and the complete engine shows up truck freight days later. I also have grown to like the Ford parts too. There are better heads out there, but nothing seems to fit and work as well as the parts that Ford makes.

I would consider swapping those valve covers for the Trick Flow valve covers. Unfortunately, Ford is still too focused on old hot rods with carbs, and doesn't offer a low profile valve cover. The Trick Flow ones are designed to work with a fuel injected engine, and will be without a doubt the best step towards getting more clearance for your stock hood. It was the best investment in clearance I ever made. You can also put a real filler neck on it.

I would also look at the BBK headers over the Kooks. I doubt there will be much performance difference between the 1 7/8" over the 1 3/4", and the BBKs fit so much better, and less than half the cost.

Kurt
Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
Screenshot_20211214-175229_Chrome.webp
 
I'v
Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
Screenshot_20211214-175229_Chrome.webp
I've actually owned that exact valve cover believe it or not. I had them on my last foxbody 20+ years ago. I've actually gotten stock valve covers to fit with stud mount rockers. You have to cut the baffles out to make them work. It's a quick process with a Dremel with a cut off wheel. I was trying to use my factory Foxbody valvecovers on my SN. I did all that work to find out that the Foxbody valve covers won't clear the alternator on an SN. It won't be a problem with a foxbody accessory system though. Go for it!! Factory valve covers will give you a ton of clearance, with a proper fill neck.

Everyone is over focused on which intake will work best. I'm a big fan of my Holley Systemax 2, and I've had it on the car for over 20 years. I've installed just about every aftermarket intake there is. Every intake mentioned will work just fine. The reality is that you can swap an intake anytime. You can send one out to TMoss to get ported to up the high end output. the devil is always in the details. Getting stuff to fit and getting the engine to fire up is the real challenge.

Kurt
 
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I'm a huge fan of Coyote swap. The comparible cost completely over looks the value of your time though. A Coyote swap takes real time, where a crate motor is a drop in with a far lower time investment. Some people make cost suggestions without the understanding of how much free time different people have. Congrats on choosing a crate engine; I have lost many hours of my life coordinating with machine shops, and getting parts where they need to go. There is a lot to be said for swiping your card, and the complete engine shows up truck freight days later. I also have grown to like the Ford parts too. There are better heads out there, but nothing seems to fit and work as well as the parts that Ford makes.

I would consider swapping those valve covers for the Trick Flow valve covers. Unfortunately, Ford is still too focused on old hot rods with carbs, and doesn't offer a low profile valve cover. The Trick Flow ones are designed to work with a fuel injected engine, and will be without a doubt the best step towards getting more clearance for your stock hood. It was the best investment in clearance I ever made. You can also put a real filler neck on it.

I would also look at the BBK headers over the Kooks. I doubt there will be much performance difference between the 1 7/8" over the 1 3/4", and the BBKs fit so much better, and less than half the cost.

Kurt
I have long tubes, unknown brand, that came with my car when I first bought it. It has a Trick Flow Power Pacakage, but the car was run hard at the track and honestly I've been overdriving it and now it has a nice tick. This is after I blew both head gaskets and front timing cover seal about three months apart. Ugh. I called Ford Racing a few weeks ago and asked specific questions on this crate engine, but the technician wasn't very helpful. I think I'm close to knowing all the parts to complete it, but I hadn't thought about the intake clearing the valve covers.

Are you saying that short valve cover will work on this 363 crate engine as long as the interior baffle is cut out?
 
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I suspect you're about right. I just did a quick search myself.

The advantage of a Coyote Gen 3 over the Z2363 is what a higher revving motor and a little more room to grow into mod/hp wise? I'm thinking 450-460 RWH is good for the streets on normal street tires and anything above that will need drag radials or more drag focused suspension. I want to keep the car N/A and am leaning toward the Z2363 engine for uniqueness. I'll be backing it up with a T-56.
Although more complicated and time consuming it’s really a no-brainer anymore. 1000+HP on a stock bottom end? Yes please. I plan on keeping this car until I die or wreck it, so I’m keeping the long view. In that long view, the coyote will cover any plans that will develop over the next 30 years.
 
Personally, i'm a fan of the Z crate engine.
I have my days where i want one.
Not that i dislike my terminator engine, but i have my days where i would like a more period correct engine.
If you were going for a swap these days i'd probably go for a 7.3 over a coyote. The downside is the engine management is crazy expensive at the moment.
 
Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
Screenshot_20211214-175229_Chrome.jpg


I tried to get my stock VC's to work with my Crane Gold 1.6's but it wouldn't work. Ended up running these exact valve covers and the intake clears them fine with a 3/8" spacer, which fits under the stock hood.



Not to influence your decision at all, but my next engine in my car will be Coyote/Terminator. I'm just really loving some of the swap i'm seeing and the uniqueness of it.
 
I reached out to Kooks regarding the availability of long tubes for the "M-6049-Z2" heads. Here is there reply:

"For the headers alone we would be looking at $3’500 to $5’000 depending on options. $4’500 to $7’000 for headers and side pipes if you wanted to go that route. It would be a custom job for us so we would need the car here in Statesville NC for 3-4 weeks sometime towards the end of March beginning of April. If you’d like to go that route I’ve attached a form to fill out that I’ll pass along to our customs shop team."

I know Hooker make long tubes for the Z263 crate engine. I'll have to contact them to see if they're applicable for the Fox Body chassis.
 
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I tried to get my stock VC's to work with my Crane Gold 1.6's but it wouldn't work. Ended up running these exact valve covers and the intake clears them fine with a 3/8" spacer, which fits under the stock hood.



Not to influence your decision at all, but my next engine in my car will be Coyote/Terminator. I'm just really loving some of the swap i'm seeing and the uniqueness of it.
I completely understand the draw of the modular engine as a sort of resto mod swap for the Fox Body platform.

As 2000xp8 said, the Z2363 is more period correct and that is what I'm going for. I'll suffer through a live axle as compared to the IRS because I want to "enjoy" those shortcomings that make a Fox Body what it is.

I was never a fan of the Terminator supercharger whine and have had nitrous on a prior Fox Body. It gets very hot in SoCal and I don't need more than 450 on the street. With those parameters in mind I see the Coyote as maybe a little more drivable and it certainly revs higher, but it gets points taken away for being too modern in a 30 year old car.

This is why I start the research process early because there is so much to consider.
 
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Who makes good 1 7/8" long tubes? The only place I can find that looks well built is Kooks and I'll have to do the research to see if they fit the Z2363's heads.

Call American racing headers
 
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Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
Screenshot_20211214-175229_Chrome.jpg
Accufab 90mm with the intake I suggested for sure I have one on mine it’s the best you can get for this

The valve covers ? Those look familiar , they work great
2195F362-E428-4E77-9B70-45B330EE08D1.webp
 
Accufab 90mm with the intake I suggested for sure I have one on mine it’s the best you can get for this

The valve covers ? Those look familiar , they work great
2195F362-E428-4E77-9B70-45B330EE08D1.webp
I'm settled on the Z2363 engine and Series R intake with a 90mm accufab. Still have to work through the correct long tubes and some other things, but I'll get them figured out. So you're saying those valve covers will work without any modification as long as I utilize a 3/8" spacer between the lower and upper intake? I assume the spacer comes with the longer bolts?
 
I'm settled on the Z2363 engine and Series R intake with a 90mm accufab. Still have to work through the correct long tubes and some other things, but I'll get them figured out. So you're saying those valve covers will work without any modification as long as I utilize a 3/8" spacer between the lower and upper intake? I assume the spacer comes with the longer bolts?
That is correct . Spacer comes with everything . I’ve ran 3/8 and had no issue. I have. 1 inch now
 
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It appears that Our Dream Restoration (ordreamauto.com) did a Z2363 install utilizing MAC long tubes, but MAC went out of business last year. I've got an email in to them and Ford Racing on this engine and installation details.

 
Can someone please confirm that the high torque starter that is the correct application for a build like this is the Denso 280-5103? I'm not sure if the Late Model Restoration SVE is a remanufactured Denso or not. Bonus points if it has that 1993 starter sound.
 
Can someone please confirm that the high torque starter that is the correct application for a build like this is the Denso 280-5103? I'm not sure if the Late Model Restoration SVE is a remanufactured Denso or not. Bonus points if it has that 1993 starter sound.
Just put a 93 starter in it from parts store . I have a car quest starter In my car

We have run the same starter in the 1400whp ultra car too
 
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Are you saying that short valve cover will work on this 363 crate engine as long as the interior baffle is cut out?
Yes, I got the stock valve covers to work with both my Canfield Heads, and a set of Windsor Jr. heads I had. It's not enough to remove the baffles, you have to cut the studs the rivets go into. If that won't clear, then get the Trick Flow valve covers. They are cheap, and will give you lots of clearance on the intake.

You are going to max out that Lightning MAF with a 363 engine. You are going to need a better MAF. The Lightning MAF has the cross sectional area, but the electronics aren't very good.

I am working on the starter. I thought I had the specific part number here. There is a power master equivalent available. This is what you are looking for.


This is a starter based on the Denso gear reduction starter used on so many factory vehicles. This starter can pull the car up onto a rollback. Ask me how I know.

Kurt
 
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