Lifetime warranty? Alright. You sold me.It's one reason why i purchased from them.
If you are the original purchaser, it's a lifetime warranty on it. Just keep your paperwork.
Warranty and Shipping Terms and Conditions
www.paperformance.com
Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build
- Thread starter Habu135
- Start date
Driveworks is a little on the bottom end. It's a brand where they take it apart, find what's broken, and fix just what's broken.$103. Not bad.
Kurt
Looks like a stock starter to me. By the description, it says they "may" have made modifications, but haven't necessarily made a better starter. You can get a lifetime starter from a Parts store and get it swapped out same day, not wait a week for round trip shipping.
Kurt
I had to swap both starters on my GT and the Cobra to a gear reduction because the heat soaking issue couldn't be solved any other way. My point is, if you drop $149 on parts store starter, which is about what they run for a decent one, and it heat soaks, well then you are out that $149. Vs spending a little more money up front, and being absolutely sure it won't have heat soaking problems. That's how it went for me. So I was out about $350 at the end because I ended up buying 2 starters. I'm pretty sure that factory starter is still sitting in a box somewhere with hardly any miles on it.
Kurt
Mustang5L5 convinced me based on his sound logic, to buy that PA one. It's brand new, not remanufactured and has a lifetime warranty AND it's competitively priced.
I’ve actually got a pa starter on the shelf. I had it in the car, but it had issues so I sent it in and they sent me a new one. Have it in case the parts store starter ever fails and they don’t have one in stock.
I like the different perspective, but I'm going with a updated heritage look and feel.
I have a car with that engine, and it's actually not recommended to modify it above the factory 350hp. It has an open deck design and a weak spot in the block, and it cracks pretty easily. The hardcore guys actually used the close deck 2.0 block with 2.3L rotating assembly. It's a much better engine.
Kurt
It's good logic to be honest. However, I have a stock starter, and 96pushrod has a PA starter. Maybe haggle with one of us for a much better price. You might be just fine with a stock starter.
Kurt
I'd appreciate you guys' input on my list here as to whether I'm missing anything.
Engine
Ford Racing Z2363 engine (rear sump): $10,499.99
Trick Flow R-Series intake w/90mm opening (silver): $729.99
Trick Flow 3/8 intake spacer: $72.99 (TFS-51520009)
Accufab 90mm throttle body: $289.99
Accufab 2” wide 90mm throttle body spacer: $94.99
44 pound injectors: $524.99
1 7/8” long tubes: ? Hooker makes the 6227-1HKR which work with the M-6049-Z2 heads
Anderson Power Pipe; #AF-0112A-90: $276.59
Anderson filter and coupler for ’03-’04 Cobra MAF; #KITLMF: $72.95
JMS MAF extension harness and Pro-M 4 to 6 pin adapter: jms-8695-ext ($49) and PMR9304 ($45)
Misc lower intake sensors:
Engine
Ford Racing Z2363 engine (rear sump): $10,499.99
Trick Flow R-Series intake w/90mm opening (silver): $729.99
Trick Flow 3/8 intake spacer: $72.99 (TFS-51520009)
Accufab 90mm throttle body: $289.99
Accufab 2” wide 90mm throttle body spacer: $94.99
44 pound injectors: $524.99
1 7/8” long tubes: ? Hooker makes the 6227-1HKR which work with the M-6049-Z2 heads
Anderson Power Pipe; #AF-0112A-90: $276.59
Anderson filter and coupler for ’03-’04 Cobra MAF; #KITLMF: $72.95
JMS MAF extension harness and Pro-M 4 to 6 pin adapter: jms-8695-ext ($49) and PMR9304 ($45)
Misc lower intake sensors:
Ditch the 44lb injectors and just get deka 80s…
Also, you plan on tuning with a quarterhorse?
Just buy a starter and put a heat shield/blanket on it like this:
I use one on my race engine which has 2"-2 1/8" stepped long tubes with a stock Ford "mini" starter. Never had an issue.
I use one on my race engine which has 2"-2 1/8" stepped long tubes with a stock Ford "mini" starter. Never had an issue.
80s ? I think even 60s be plenty for a Na 363 . Hell 42s might do just fine . I made 581 with a power adder with 60s and was fine . The think NA he’d be more then fine with 60s
80s and 60s are like the same price. There’s no reason not to get the 80s
I agree on the first part, but if the theory is that anything in front of the throttle body is a restriction and the throttle body needs to be a 90mm, i would think a 90mm pro m meter would be necessary.
By using a pro m and matching injectors you can at least make the car run right and tune it later. Using the cobra meter means you need the tuning before you even start it.
That engine will most likely run just fine on 30's considering it's NA.
At best it's going to make low 400's for rwhp.
I feel like some guys just make things complicated for no reason. 80 injectors and a cobra maf? Personally, i don't get it.
If you made 500rwhp on a vortech powered 302, you would still only need 42's and this NA engine is going to come up way short of that.
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