Engine Contour Fan Install

[rotorhead22]

Well I finally had to move forward with the Contour fan conversion. Drove Blu Tunder the other day on a typical Africa hot Florida day and the temp shot up like a Elon Musk rocket leaving cape. Just need to wire in the solenoids. I watched several videos on the brackets and came up with an alternative for my project.

 

[Grn92LX]

What are you using to control it? Relays, pwm? I use a pwm module controlled by Holley efi and only need about 60-65% duty cycle to keep mine cool around 185* But I don't live in Florida.

 

[rotorhead22]

Relays and toggle switch

 

[rotorhead22]

After a 30 minute test drive the temperature still shot up so when I got back home I raised the hood and knew something was up with the aftermarket gauge and then got out the temp gun and the thermostat housing was at 220 and everything else was cooler than that

 

[Blown88GT]

My mounting arrangement is similar. I use a PWM controller. In the FL summer heat, it will run full speed when the t-stat opens.

 

[KRUISR]

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/contour-fans-what-you-need-to-know.923373/

Post #4 is a simple dual speed setup with low speed through the factory thermoresistor and high on a toggle. The soft start module is not required but does reduce peak voltage A LOT!

When moving at speed my fans don't come on.

 

[rotorhead22]

So is it possible to go to the complete opposite spectrum of cooling? Not that I’m complaining however I’m about 195 degrees now

 

[KRUISR]

What is your t-stat, fan trigger temperature and temp sensor location?

Is that temperature with the fans running? If running, low or high speed?

 

[rotorhead22]

What is your t-stat, fan trigger temperature and temp sensor location?

Is that temperature with the fans running? If running, low or high speed?

Fans controlled by toggle switch, either on or off. Thermostat is 180 deg. It’s been blistering hot here in Tampa traffic. Alternator upgraded and under drive pullies

 

[KRUISR]

I am assuming you are turning on high speed on the fans only. That would explain you 195 temp right now.

You original comment of being hot was probably due to some air in the system that has now worked it way out.

I have a 180 t-stat and on a cool day (60s or 70s outside), my car will stay around 180-185 on the highway all day long with the fans not coming on (they switch on low at 205, high at 215). On hotter days (80+) it will run up to fan turn on point.

 

[rotorhead22]

I am assuming you are turning on high speed on the fans only. That would explain you 195 temp right now.

You original comment of being hot was probably due to some air in the system that has now worked it way out.

I have a 180 t-stat and on a cool day (60s or 70s outside), my car will stay around 180-185 on the highway all day long with the fans not coming on (they switch on low at 205, high at 215). On hotter days (80+) it will run up to fan turn on

 

[rotorhead22]

That are on high only and you’re probably right about the air. I bought a new radiator cap to eliminate another factor. I just want it to be reliable as possible to take the grandkids cruising

 

[manicmechanic007]

Show those grandkids how it's done

 

[fasterthangas]

Fans controlled by toggle switch, either on or off. Thermostat is 180 deg. It’s been blistering hot here in Tampa traffic. Alternator upgraded and under drive pullies

Dump the under drive pullies. They cause more issues than they are worth. The alternator and water pump should not be under driven. If anything; you want a higher flowing water pump. I'm in Phoenix FYI. Out here; I run the Contour fans on high speed only. These cars are engineered to run over 200*. I regularly run 210* plus in traffic with ac on. Your t-stat should be a 192*-195*. The old school "180* is perfect" addage is just that; old school. Engineers discovered years ago that warmer coolant temps create more power.

 

[General karthief]

The 180* thermostat was for carb cars, the low fuel pressure was prone to fuel heating up and vaporizing in the line or bowls so the lower temp was needed, todays higher fuel pressure is less prone to vaporize.

 

[rotorhead22]

Dump the under drive pullies. They cause more issues than they are worth. The alternator and water pump should not be under driven. If anything; you want a higher flowing water pump. I'm in Phoenix FYI. Out here; I run the Contour fans on high speed only. These cars are engineered to run over 200*. I regularly run 210* plus in traffic with ac on. Your t-stat should be a 192*-195*. The old school "180* is perfect" addage is just that; old school. Engineers discovered years ago that warmer coolant temps create more power.

I was out there last year and helped my buddy install a Turbo 400 in his V8 Gremlin. That place hot freaking hot