Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

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So this isn’t related to the interior rebuild but I did want to get everyone’s advice on this. I was reading some threads on torque boxes and them being torn which would cause popping in the rear. I decided to check mine today and the first two pictures are the drivers side. There’s two rips on it with one being next to the LCA and the other being closer to the body. The passenger side has one small rip next to the body and the fourth picture is just how the lower torque box looks. The upper torque boxes seem to be okay and don’t look too bad aside from being crusty. I don’t see any visible rips in them or the sheet metal beside them. The lowers are a little deformed from the years of jacking up on them is my best guess

So do these rips look fixable? Do you all think this could be my popping noise when creeping slowly though a parking lot or just creeping slowly in general? I’ve checked the bushings and while they’re not the best all the control arm bushings are pretty solid. The u joints are good and I’m not sure the condition of the clutch packs in the rear but I have had the gears swapped from 4.10s to 3.55s and was told everything looked okay. It popped before and after the gear swap.
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Weld them up the same way as the cracks for the seat mount. Would also suggest stitch welding the seams where the torque box contacts the floor pan and subframes. Helps with strength and stiffens things up. Do this on both the uppers and lowers. Look for pulled spot welds and address them as well. Welding the uppers will require pulling the back seat and having fire watch. If you are by yourself you can soak a heavy towel and cover the area you are welding in the car.

Wanted to add to my comments above. You will need to remove the UCA's and LCA's from the body mounts so you can also weld up the seams that are on the inside of the torque boxes and upper mounts. Also, cannot stress this enough, clean the areas that you are going to weld. The cleaner they are the better the weld quality will be. Start with degreasing everything then move to a wire wheel (you can get 1/4" shank wire brushes for your cordless drill) and get all the surface rust, paint, etc. off the weld area. After you weld them up wire brush everything again, wipe down with some brake cleaner, allow dry time, use an etching primer, and then either paint or use undercoating.

I just removed the rear end and drive shaft so my buddy had a lot of room to weld things up. If you do not want to change transmission fluid at this time you will need a tail housing plug to put in the trans when you pull the drive shaft. You will also need to plan on plugging the brake lines. I also ended up cleaning up the rear end (power washed, degreased, wire wheeled, and painted) while it was out of the car.

Is it a lot of work? Yes, but if you do all of this your car will thank you and your wallet will later down the road.
 
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Weld them up the same way as the cracks for the seat mount. Would also suggest stitch welding the seams where the torque box contacts the floor pan and subframes. Helps with strength and stiffens things up. Do this on both the uppers and lowers. Look for pulled spot welds and address them as well. Welding the uppers will require pulling the back seat and having fire watch. If you are by yourself you can soak a heavy towel and cover the area you are welding in the car.

Wanted to add to my comments above. You will need to remove the UCA's and LCA's from the body mounts so you can also weld up the seams that are on the inside of the torque boxes and upper mounts. Also, cannot stress this enough, clean the areas that you are going to weld. The cleaner they are the better the weld quality will be. Start with degreasing everything then move to a wire wheel (you can get 1/4" shank wire brushes for your cordless drill) and get all the surface rust, paint, etc. off the weld area. After you weld them up wire brush everything again, wipe down with some brake cleaner, allow dry time, use an etching primer, and then either paint or use undercoating.

I just removed the rear end and drive shaft so my buddy had a lot of room to weld things up. If you do not want to change transmission fluid at this time you will need a tail housing plug to put in the trans when you pull the drive shaft. You will also need to plan on plugging the brake lines. I also ended up cleaning up the rear end (power washed, degreased, wire wheeled, and painted) while it was out of the car.

Is it a lot of work? Yes, but if you do all of this your car will thank you and your wallet will later down the road.
I appreciate the info. I guess it’s time for me to stop making excuses and finally get a welder. I’ll only be able to get a flux core for the foreseeable future since I don’t have my shop yet and only have access to 110. Do you think a flux core would do as long as I’m extremely careful and practice plenty before attempting the welds? Also for the one big crack should I drill a small hole in the end of it before welding as well?

I need to replace the upper and lower control arms anyway so I guess that would be a perfect time to do all of that. I’m honestly disappointed that the boxes are ripped but happy I found it before it got bad. If you have any advice on flux core that would be wonderful because I’m so new to welding it’s not even funny. I once again really appreciate all the info and advice
 
So your torque boxes have small cracks and no where near ripped.

My Miller mig is 110/220 and will weld with shielding gas on 110. Keep shipping welders until you can find one that does both 110/220 and can work with shielding gas.
 
So your torque boxes have small cracks and no where near ripped.

My Miller mig is 110/220 and will weld with shielding gas on 110. Keep shipping welders until you can find one that does both 110/220 and can work with shielding gas.
That’s relieving to hear. I didn’t know how bad they actually were in the grand scheme of things. I’ll check some more another day when it’s jacked up again for any more cracks or tears. I’ll definitely get a gas 110/220 as that’s what I wanted to begin with I just didn’t know that was a thing. I greatly appreciate your help and all the help you’ve provided so far.
 
Another day of what feels like little progress. I got the rear quarters dyed and I feel like they came out pretty well. Let me know what you all think.
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Not the best photos and even though they’re not the same panel they both pretty much looked the same before and they both came out great on the after. Definitely happy with it. I also got the new computer bracket in and the new evaporator drain seal in.

If you all have been through the whole thread you’ll remember I complained about the subframe connectors rattling against the drain on the passenger floor pan, I fixed that today with a piece of the scraps from the closed cell foam. Tomorrow will be dedicated to dyeing the dash and the rest of the plastic interior pieces.

Here are some pictures of the trim pieces in the car
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If you’re not dead set on the 220, I had some good success learning to weld and doing my floor pans and subframe connectors with the Eastwood 110v MIG.
I would definitely recommend it!
 
If you’re not dead set on the 220, I had some good success learning to weld and doing my floor pans and subframe connectors with the Eastwood 110v MIG.
I would definitely recommend it!
Thanks for the recommendation. I looked into it and it looks to be a good price and has good reviews. It’s actually a better price than the one I was looking at on harbor freights website. There’s a 140 amp and a 180 amp I see. The 140 amp I see is a good bit cheaper. Which one would you recommend?
 
I bought their MIG 135, but I think that is discontinued and their new line includes the 140 and 180. I guess the 140 is the new and improved 135. For basic car work, I think the 140 would be fine, but for a little more, the 180 gives you the dual voltage option, and ability to weld thicker material.
I’ve used my welder for other things around the house, and I’ve yet to say “I wish I had a stronger machine”.
I’m starting to ramble on …. Bottom line…. I think the 140 is a pretty good bang for the buck.
 
I bought their MIG 135, but I think that is discontinued and their new line includes the 140 and 180. I guess the 140 is the new and improved 135. For basic car work, I think the 140 would be fine, but for a little more, the 180 gives you the dual voltage option, and ability to weld thicker material.
I’ve used my welder for other things around the house, and I’ve yet to say “I wish I had a stronger machine”.
I’m starting to ramble on …. Bottom line…. I think the 140 is a pretty good bang for the buck.
Makes sense. I’ll most likely just go with the 140. It sounds like it’ll do everything I need it to do. Hopefully I can catch on relatively quickly lol
 
Not too many progress pictures today but I got the rear seat backs back in and that was a huge pain. The folding hinge bracket that bolts to the trunk floor was awful to work with and one of the big screw holes is rusted out so the passenger folding seat is a pain to use but it works for now.

Other than that got the dash dyed and the dash speaker grilles dyed. I also got the knee bolster panel dyed, the glove box, the dash pad, and the seat belt sleeves. Next on the list for tomorrow is the kick panels, rear speaker grilles, center console and the cup holder console. Once those are done the interior is officially re dyed aside from the a pillar trim and the very back hatch trim panels. New carpet is also hopefully going in tomorrow. I only have a before and after pick of the black on the dash for you all today. I took it to remind myself for later where exactly the pony logo someone had glued on was
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Also, does anyone know how to get the car to not smell like por 15? I used a good bit of the stuff on the seams to seal them but it’s been at least a week now since I last used any and the doors have been open for hours and hours a day.
 
Makes sense. I’ll most likely just go with the 140. It sounds like it’ll do everything I need it to do. Hopefully I can catch on relatively quickly lol
I bought a bunch of metal from the local Home Depot, or Tractor Supply, I forget which…… anyway….. I practiced a lot with a lot of scrap metal. Burned through a whole bottle practicing. I had some prior experience in an old job where I was being taught, but it was on 1/4” and better. The thinner stuff is harder in my opinion. With some practice you’ll get it.
I love that I can do it now….. probably the most fun I’ve had in all that I’ve done to my car!
And if your like me, the “i did it myself” factor is well worth the effort! Good luck!
 
If I was a young man again I would take some welding and " body and paint" classes at a local Community College.... Wouldn't want to make my living that way but it sure would have made my car hobby more fun and less expensive...... If need be, you could make some money on the side too......
 
If I was a young man again I would take some welding and " body and paint" classes at a local Community College.... Wouldn't want to make my living that way but it sure would have made my car hobby more fun and less expensive...... If need be, you could make some money on the side too......
That’s something I’ve wanted to do since high school and I might just do it. I love to be able to do things on my own and not have to rely on someone for them to only make it worse while still taking my money.
 
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It’s been a long time coming but new carpet is finally in. I don’t really have an excuse as to why it took me a year and a half other than the guy I had do the patch work had the car for at least 7 months of that year and a half lol. Passenger side fit perfect with no issues at all. The drivers side was a different story and still isn’t 100% but it’s pretty much there.

I also got the center console dyed today and the cup holder console matched.
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This isn’t the original one from the car. I replaced it because the original had some big gouges in the plastic by the radio well area. Tape lines certainly weren’t great but I’m no painter so go easy on me lol. I really like the look of the SEM presidio grey with the SEM satin black. I’ve been at it about 5-6 days in a row at least 10 hours a day but this progress thread is finally coming to a close. I’ll update once the dash is officially in and everything is hooked up. I just want to give a huge thank you to everyone who has helped along the way and given excellent advice. If it weren’t for you all I would’ve given up a long time ago
 
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If I was a young man again I would take some welding and " body and paint" classes at a local Community College.... Wouldn't want to make my living that way but it sure would have made my car hobby more fun and less expensive...... If need be, you could make some money on the side too......
I grew up in a body shop. Been in one since my teens and I'm 42 now. I was never a full blown body man or a painter, but I know enough to be dangerous. I was a body apprentice for quite a few years, until I went to estimating. I'm a body shop manager now. I was able to handle the teardown and body work on my 88 a few years back. I had my painter at the time paint it though. Its definitely something I enjoy doing, just not for a living. I've worked with body men and painters that have had their bodies just breakdown on them due to the trade. Glad my techs are all in their 30's!!
 
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Well the dash is in and that was no fun job by myself but I got it done. The gigantic dash harness gave me a lot of trouble but I eventually got it.
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I had a whole lot of trouble with the hvac temp control cable. It didn’t seem to like any way I tried to route it and it is super stiff which it always has been. It’s crusty and nasty and I should’ve replaced it while I had easy access. I also can’t get the bundle of wires by the drivers kick panel to cooperate. Other than that though I’m just ready to get it back together the rest of the way. Hopefully the weather permits
 
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