Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Damnit, looks like you are correct at least looking at a replacement emblem from LMR.
I was hoping to go the debadged look but don’t want three holes just chillin so I’ll just leave it be.
Got it. I Mis-understood what you were looking to do. I Thought you wanted to replace it but didn’t have the holes on your hatch and was concerned the new badge wouldnt work because of the prongs. I removed my post but you were too fast to see it. lol
Ok finished my spare tire ‘spacer’ using high density foam. Basic idea was to fill the void of the spare tire with something light but also could withstand some weight sitting on top of it so the wood panel and carpet wouldn’t sag into that space:
Second, question: are these safe jack points?
Second, question: are these safe jack points?
Got the new connector in. Couldn’t figure out how to de-pin it. It’s not like a normal connector. I didn’t want fubar the new connector trying to get them out so I’ll probably just splice in the entire new pigtail.
Got the NGS harness side connector spliced in to replace the melted one. Connected it up and held the wiring in place with some tie mounts. May undo it and wrap the ‘exposed’ wires in some kind of wiring wrap and re-secure them. I think I have some wire loom/wrap at work I could ‘borrow’.
Also, I think my suspicions about needing motor mounts was correct. While under the car was poking around and noticed the current ones look dry rotted and are cracking:
This is just the drivers side mount.
This is just the drivers side mount.
Scrapla347
Active Member
Yes the K member is safe to jack up from and put your stands. Always do the shake test before crawling under. I also remove my wheels and place them under the car for added protection just incase.Ok finished my spare tire ‘spacer’ using high density foam. Basic idea was to fill the void of the spare tire with something light but also could withstand some weight sitting on top of it so the wood panel and carpet wouldn’t sag into that space:
Second, question: are these safe jack points?
Also, I think my suspicions about needing motor mounts was correct. While under the car was poking around and noticed the current ones look dry rotted and are cracking:
This is just the drivers side mount.
Ask the "which mount" question before you order. The way I understand it, the OEM mounts are hard to come by and the replacements are slightly different however, I don't recall all of the particulars.
I know there's folks in here that do.
Well whoops, I already ordered and received the Energy Suspension motor/trans mount kit from RockAuto. If my research is correct these should slightly lower the engine like 1993 convertible mounts do?Ask the "which mount" question before you order. The way I understand it, the OEM mounts are hard to come by and the replacements are slightly different however, I don't recall all of the particulars.
I know there's folks in there that do.
I guess we will see.
What I recall is 'hearing' the same and they ended up being taller.
The other thing that comes to mind about the 'convertible mounts' is that they are captured. I think all the replacement mounts are now that way.
I think it’s the Prothane mounts that tend to raise the engine. Just what I was reading when trying to decide. Any pros/cons to captured versus open?I guess we will see.
What I recall is 'hearing' the same and they ended up being taller.
The other thing that comes to mind about the 'convertible mounts' is that they are captured. I think all the replacement mounts are now that way.
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Captured is the way to go. Even if the insulator is completely gone, the 2 pieces cannot separate.
Scrapla347
Active Member
I also remember being recommended if you get poly mounts for the engine get rubber for the trans to allow for some shock absorption but it's been 20 years since I replaced mine. I bought all poly mounts then remember someone telling me I should've got a rubber mount for my T-5.
Got the blower motor all cleaned up and back together with new seals:
Old:
Mid cleaning (getting the adhesive off this flap was a pain):
New:
One thing I did not like about the LMR kit was the butyl strips were completely stuck to the package they come in… basically had to just rip chunks off then ‘roll’ them into the right shape and place them in the channel.
Old:
Mid cleaning (getting the adhesive off this flap was a pain):
New:
One thing I did not like about the LMR kit was the butyl strips were completely stuck to the package they come in… basically had to just rip chunks off then ‘roll’ them into the right shape and place them in the channel.
Somewhat productive night, also fixed my stator wire by splicing in the new pigtail connector. This was the shape of the original one:
Scrapla347
Active Member
I removed my blower to fix a water leak and didn't even think about doing this. Did you just use generic sticky foam?Got the blower motor all cleaned up and back together with new seals:
Old:
Mid cleaning (getting the adhesive off this flap was a pain):
New:
One thing I did not like about the LMR kit was the butyl strips were completely stuck to the package they come in… basically had to just rip chunks off then ‘roll’ them into the right shape and place them in the channel.
LMR sells a blower motor seal 'kit' that comes with the flap foam, opening foam seal and some butyl strips for mating the two halves together. I'm sure you could accomplish this cheaper by buying some foam seals and doing it yourself, but i'm always in a hurry so i pay for convenience.
LRS-19555BK
