Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory

[gkomo]

While i was under the car just holding the lower radiator hose cracked open letting it slowly drain, i was just looking around at everything. I noticed my passenger side end-link was just flopping around, i could physically move it up/down like 1/4" and the bushing wasn't even in the 'pocket' of the sway bar. I tried tightening it but realized i need the car on the ground, not jack stands. Is this a just tighten till tight or is there a torque spec for end links? Drivers side looked fine.

Does 6-12ft lb sound right? Thats what LMR has listed for the torque specs.

Edit: I should note that the end links are new and seem to have poly bushings. The slop isn't from like bad bushings or something, its physically not tight enough.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Typically the bolt only has 1-1/2” of threads so you may need a shorter bolt. Would be weird but just something to check.

 

[gkomo]

Typically the bolt only has 1-1/2” of threads so you may need a shorter bolt. Would be weird but just something to check.

Here’s how it’s looking at the moment. I did tighten it a little bit last night but then realized (I think?) the suspension needs to be loaded, which it’s currently not:

 

[General karthief]

Stick a jack under that control arm and raise it up enough the lower bushing on the top contact the sway bar then tighten it down, don't worry about torque just get it tightened up.
That bolt does look a little long but it should work.
Check it a couple times after some miles, still tight, your good.

 

[gkomo]

Will do, I’ll compare bolt length to the drivers side. Hopefully it’s not too long and there are more threads available for the nut to be tightened down onto.

 

[gkomo]

Got my MAF extension harness in. Started up the car for the first time since the S/C install. Had my coolant filler kit hooked up and started doing the coolant fill but then ran out of time, so I’ll have to finish burping the system another time. Also, as you’ll hear, got some belt slip on startup. I think I’ll try to add more tension to the S/C belt. Doesn’t feel loose or anything but has some play:

Video is a little long of it just idling… I was off camera adding coolant as air was escaping.


View: https://youtube.com/shorts/y7D64QiojD0?si=5eA2pN64ZA9nBy2V

 

[Noobz347]

Belt slip on what pulley, the new one?

Give it a little bit. Also, check all pulley alignments now that you've spun it.

 

[Noobz347]

Oh, and find that bolt that you left loose and forgot about.

 

[gkomo]

Belt slip on what pulley, the new one?

Give it a little bit. Also, check all pulley alignments now that you've spun it.

I’m assuming the supercharger pulleys/belt? The drive belt has good tension and is mostly in the middle of the tensioner range. The S/C belt I kinda just made it tight but was given no direction on how tight to make it.

I did stand there watching the belts for a couple seconds and it all seemed straight. Next time I have more time and can burp the coolant and just let it sit idling for a while to get up to temp I’ll keep an eye on them. So far no leaks under the car (except either my oil pan gasket or rear main seal has a slow leak… had like 2 drops of oil on the ground after it had been sitting the few weeks it’s taken me to install the supercharger) and it’s coming from the rear of the engine, but also my oil pan gasket looks like .

Since there were no immediate fuel leaks can I assume the new fuel connections are all good and locked into place?

 

[Noobz347]

Keep checking fuel fittings for your next few runs etc... You're probably good to go but just monitor for a while.

 

[gkomo]

Got the floppy end link off. Measured the bolt at roughly 9”. It’s too long I’ve bottomed out the nut on the threads which is why I couldn’t get it any tighter. It’s also longer than the drivers side end link just based off looking at the exposed threads left on that one.

Anywho, will need to buy a new one, or a set just so they are the same. Do I need the 94/95 end links? I’ve read they are shorter and since I’m lowered (H&R race springs) the shorter ones could be better? Or just get a set of poly fox end links?

Just guesstimating based on how much thread was exposed on top plus the slop of the sleeve, I’m guessing I could take 2” off the length. I saw on rockauto they sell energy suspension end links which measure 6 3/8”… I wonder if that would work or be too short?

 

[Noobz347]

What if you ran it through a die and threaded the bolts further down on both sides.


I mean... If I were going to buy parts for it, might as well replace it with MM or something.

 

[gkomo]

What if you ran it through a die and threaded the bolts further down on both sides.


I mean... If I were going to buy parts for it, might as well replace it with MM or something.

Funny enough I was just on MM’s site reading up on end links. They state for cars lowered 1.5” or more to buy their 5 3/8” end links. The race springs are listed as 1-1.75” drop. However, reading more I believe my sway bar arms are ‘pointing up’. I’m going to buy the MM ones for lowered mustangs.

 

[Noobz347]

Bummer

 

[gkomo]

Guess I won’t really be able to drive it until these come in now. Grr

 

[Noobz347]

Take it off. It will drive just fine. Just don't go shooting the S-curves.

 

[nickyb]

Take it off. It will drive just fine. Just don't go shooting the S-curves.

Ageeded, just take it off and go for a blast. Drag strip style.

 

[gkomo]

Alright cool. All i would be doing is some test drives around the neighborhood. Still have a new radiator cap coming as well so i have to wait for that to come anyways before taking her out.

And i did look down into my stock radiator with a flashlight and its looking pretty crusty in there. A new radiator will be on the short list but the amount of times my wife has asked me how much i've been spending on the mustang as of late... may need to wait a little bit.

 

[gkomo]

Oh, and find that bolt that you left loose and forgot about.

Hey and don't be jinxing me like that!

 

[Noobz347]

It's an anti-jinx