Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 95 GT/Saleen Supercharged 331 install

[from6to8]

Ok guys getting my ducks in order for the 331 build for my 95 and have a few questions or one in particular right off the bat. The builder has the block and going to be getting some 4032 pistons soon. I've already sent him a lot of parts so far.

331 Stock block build
Holley Systemax 2 (more than likely since I've had a Performer 2 for so long on my other 302 setup and it's now on my Vortech '94)
Brodix 170 degree cc head with 1.94 and 1.54 valves
Custom blower cam
60 lbs ( I bought lightning 42's for when I was going to go NA so might sell them)
70 Tb
80 or 90 Maf ( Have a question about that )
1 5/8th Bbk LT's with an X and Spintech 6000's street pro
Mcleoud Super Street Pro I already bought for NA and hope it will hold up since looks like it's rated at 550/550 crank. I will likely be around at minimum 500 but I've seen a guy make 535 recently. It seems keeping the rpm's no more than 6k and a good tune and the block will be safe.
UPR boostmaster pipe
Vortech V3
255 walbro with stock fuel system
3.55 gears

I think that's everything and my first question is-

1. I have on my NA list go go with a 96-01 80mm meter and i can get it for around $35-50 vs $299 ish for an SCT BA 2600 90mm that I actually just put on my 94 setup.
If the 80 will suffice and there won't be any negatives having 10 less mm ( less hp lol), then I'll just go with it but if the 90 would be more beneficial I'll get it. I'm all about saving
money when I can and it makes sense.

2. I already bought the McCleod Super Street Pro and it's rated at 500/500 crank. My car will be a nice weekend street car only and I don't even horse them around all the time; I drive normal'ish sometimes believe it or not. So what do you guys think, you think it'll hold up? I have had parts now since early '25 and would hate to have to try and sell them. I already have to sell the black cold air tube I bought new and will be unused since I'll be going straight Supercharged vs running the setup NA for awhile first. I believe that's the only thing I'll have to get rid of that I won't need. After this build the only thing I might have down the road to do is when my 94's 200k miles finally dies, I'll do another engine for it but other than that that'll likely be the last build for the foreseeable future. I do plan on adding a fox to the stable but I will very likely buy one already built.

@Noobz347 @AeroCoupe

Hey Aero I know you told me about the 96-01 meter for Na and can't remember if you have a blower or not as I don't believe you do. But let me know your thoughts....

 

[Noobz347]

The SCT is the hands-down choice for me. I've been down the used MAF road and have chosen to participate no further. LoL

The stock fuel rails are suspect at that power level.

 

[from6to8]

The SCT is the hands-down choice for me. I've been down the used MAF road and have chosen to participate no further. LoL

The stock fuel rails are suspect at that power level.

My research says and from other people they actually might tuner has I think I want to say well I know he's well over 500 and close to 6 on the stock fuel rail so I'm fine.

Did those used meters take a dump or something what were your issues with the used meters? The guy I'm going to get the meter from he has a Mustang salvage yard and so you know I I trust him to sell me something that's good even though sure he could get a car that's you know he doesn't know the history necessarily but worst case scenario is I could take it back and swap it out.

 

[Noobz347]

Did those used meters take a dump or something what were your issues with the used meters?

I had bad luck with used meters. When I first converted to MAF I bought one that ended up being garbage then bought a new good one. When I did the engine swap, the same thing happened so... I'm jaded in that regard. hehe

 

[from6to8]

I had bad luck with used meters. When I first converted to MAF I bought one that ended up being garbage then bought a new good one. When I did the engine swap, the same thing happened so... I'm jaded in that regard. hehe

Wow that's crazy were they bad bad as in cleaning them would not help or you did not try to clean them?

 

[Noobz347]

Wow that's crazy were they bad bad as in cleaning them would not help or you did not try to clean them?

One flat-out didn't work and the other didn't appear to be consistent.

 

[from6to8]

One flat-out didn't work and the other didn't appear to be consistent.

Gotcha

 

[AeroCoupe]

Car is NA. The SCT is the way to go with a boosted application.

I would say the entire fuels system is suspect at those levels but I have a tendency to go overkill on fuel system. You may even want to move up to an Aeromotive 340 lph pump or the Walbro 350 lph.

 

[from6to8]

Car is NA. The SCT is the way to go with a boosted application.

I would say the entire fuels system is suspect at those levels but I have a tendency to go overkill on fuel system. You may even want to move up to an Aeromotive 340 lph pump or the Walbro 350 lph.

Damn and I just put the 255 in last year when I did the suspension and swapped the rear end lol. Albeit a used 255 that came out of my wrecked car but I don't think it had crazy miles on it. I'll talk to the tuner and see what he thinks because I might just run it until it dies then go bigger but I'd hate to necessarily have to have the tune readjusted some later with the bigger pump.

 

[from6to8]

Car is NA. The SCT is the way to go with a boosted application.

I would say the entire fuels system is suspect at those levels but I have a tendency to go overkill on fuel system. You may even want to move up to an Aeromotive 340 lph pump or the Walbro 350 lph.

is there a seperate hanger to buy if I'm going with the 340 pump? I've seen the hanger and pump combo but not just the hanger.

 

[from6to8]

TRE Performance is out of stock with no ETA on their 340 lph which I've done the research and they are legit. They are $159 but on sale for $99 though not in stock. They have a 340 for (don't laugh lol), a camaro/vette that's the same but it's 1/4" longer and has an offset inlet width of 3/4" and the one for 86-95 has
an inlet width of 7/8". It is also $99 on sale and I reached out to them about the size difference and this is what they said:

"The metal part of the hangar that the fuel pump goes through will not fit right without modifying or cutting it off and zip tying pump to hangar instead. Yes you can make it work no problem if you have any mechanical skills and like a dremel tool or cut off wheel."

I have a spare hanger that I can mod to fit it as that doesn't appear to be a big deal

Ford Mustang 5.0, 2.3 and Cobra 340 LPH Fuel Pump 1985-1995 - TREperformance.com

TREperformance sells high pressure 340 LPH fuel pumps for all Ford vehicles including the Mustang 5.0, 2.3 and Cobra. These 340lph performance pumps will fit any Mustang 5.0, 2.3 and Cobra and flow 340 liters per hour and support 800hp.

treperformance.com

Chevy Camaro, Corvette LS1 LT1 LSX 340 LPH Fuel Pump 1985-2004 - TREperformance.com

TREperformance sells high pressure 340 LPH fuel pumps for all Chevy vehicles including the Camaro and Corvette. These 340lph performance pumps will fit any Chevrolet LS1 LS2 LSX or LT1 and flow 340 liters per hour and support 800hp.

treperformance.com

I bought my V3 thru them on black friday for the 94 and will likely get the one for the 95 that time again this year if they are the lowest price again; NO taxes either or shipping

 

[AeroCoupe]

You can modify the stock hanger and be good to go. I would put some hose on the turn line so that when you put the hanger back in the tank the return fuel is flowing away from the pump inlet. Without it the pump will return back enough that in low fuel conditions it will literally churn up the fuel at the pump inlet and cause it to cavitate. My understanding is the rubber nozzle on the return line was used to spray fuel on the stock pump to keep it cool. Today’s pumps do not need this.

Noobz is 100% in that at idle it is going to be returning a lot of fuel. So much that I doubt the stock 1/4” return can handle it. With what you are planning ai would run 6AN lines. I want to say that the 94/95 cars have a 3/8” feed line (so the same as 6AN) which will work.

As for the size of the pump. Eight 60 lb/hr injectors in a boosted application can move 350 lph. Granted this is max volume but that’s what they will flow. If they are under supplied then I think the tuner can adjust the tables but I don’t know as I’m not a tuner. If you really need the 60’s then ai would put the 340 in, upgrade the return line at a minimum (I would replace both) and I have read that the 94/95 injector rails will support up to 600 hp. Only issue I see is they will start running out of volume with those big injectors and you might see fuel pressure drop when in the boost.

Again, I don’t run boost but I can definitely see where all this can happen. I have too much time and money in a motor to go lean on fuel. It’s like building the car to go really fast and leaving the stock brakes on it. It will stop but will it stop when you really need it to?

Anyhow, listen to Noobz as he has this figured out man.

 

[from6to8]

You can modify the stock hanger and be good to go. I would put some hose on the turn line so that when you put the hanger back in the tank the return fuel is flowing away from the pump inlet. Without it the pump will return back enough that in low fuel conditions it will literally churn up the fuel at the pump inlet and cause it to cavitate. My understanding is the rubber nozzle on the return line was used to spray fuel on the stock pump to keep it cool. Today’s pumps do not need this.

Noobz is 100% in that at idle it is going to be returning a lot of fuel. So much that I doubt the stock 1/4” return can handle it. With what you are planning ai would run 6AN lines. I want to say that the 94/95 cars have a 3/8” feed line (so the same as 6AN) which will work.

As for the size of the pump. Eight 60 lb/hr injectors in a boosted application can move 350 lph. Granted this is max volume but that’s what they will flow. If they are under supplied then I think the tuner can adjust the tables but I don’t know as I’m not a tuner. If you really need the 60’s then ai would put the 340 in, upgrade the return line at a minimum (I would replace both) and I have read that the 94/95 injector rails will support up to 600 hp. Only issue I see is they will start running out of volume with those big injectors and you might see fuel pressure drop when in the boost.

Again, I don’t run boost but I can definitely see where all this can happen. I have too much time and money in a motor to go lean on fuel. It’s like building the car to go really fast and leaving the stock brakes on it. It will stop but will it stop when you really need it to?

Anyhow, listen to Noobz as he has this figured out man.

Put Hose on that return line that has that rubber cap thing on it inside the tank and just have it hanging down inside the tank?

What I'm going to do though is just run the 255 for now since it's already in. It's not a new pump but one I took out of my other 95 so I'll just run it for now. When it dies, then I'll proceed with the 340 and upgrades for it. I have 42's already that I bought when I was going to go NA first then boost later but I'll go ahead and get 60's since I'm going straight boost. I'll let the tuner put a good safe tune for whatever the 255 can put out safely without it being at the max level of overworking it or keeping up with the injectors.

 

[dcm0123]

I am not an expert but my understanding is if the engine runs to lean it could burn a piston. If you intend to race this, you may want to upgrade the pump and return line now.

What are you using for a computer to control this?

 

[from6to8]

I am not an expert but my understanding is if the engine runs to lean it could burn a piston. If you intend to race this, you may want to upgrade the pump and return line now.

What are you using for a computer to control this?

No racing or track.

I'm deciding whether I'm going to get a stock ECU tune, quarter horse, or megasquirt

 

[dcm0123]

My son was running a Tweecer for about 6 years on 351W with the D2. Ran decent but always had bucking problems under light throttle below 2000 rpm. This system is not easy to learn to tune.

He upgraded to the Holley Terminator X last year. Runs a lot better. Was able to keep all the OEM dash gauges.

 

[from6to8]

My son was running a Tweecer for about 6 years on 351W with the D2. Ran decent but always had bucking problems under light throttle below 2000 rpm. This system is not easy to learn to tune.

He upgraded to the Holley Terminator X last year. Runs a lot better. Was able to keep all the OEM dash gauges.

What exactly is running a tweezer is that using a stock ECU at all?

 

[dcm0123]

Tweecer is an add on chip for the stock ECU which allows you to modify through your laptop the engine operating parameters. It is an older system.

 

[from6to8]

Tweecer is an add on chip for the stock ECU which allows you to modify through your laptop the engine operating parameters. It is an older system.

I guess that's what I have then because it's an SCT chip burnt by Chris Tuten in Columbia South carolina. He has done several of my cars with that

 

[dcm0123]

I believe you have something different. If you want to change the operating parameters, you need a new chip.
With Tweecer you can modify it using your laptop.
Tweecer is a good system but complex for a non-experienced use. The newer systems make it less complex to do yourself.