I tried to clearance the banjo bolt, but I'm afraid to go any further. I can still crack it loose, but if I take anymore off, I don't think I'll be able to service the brakes... It's very, very close but still contacting wheel.
Black Jack: Now a little less of a rust bucket
- Thread starter FastDriver
- Start date
Post in thread 'Black Jack: Weld Draglites. I guess I'm hosed' https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/884727/post-9385485
Last edited:
The link does not describe the rotor diameter used. Is it a stock SN95 or something else?
When I was building my car I went with a 11.23" rear rotor and my stock 15" rims would just rub on the caliper so I went with a set of 16" wheels.
When I was building my car I went with a 11.23" rear rotor and my stock 15" rims would just rub on the caliper so I went with a set of 16" wheels.
Last edited:
With the rear Cobra rotors being 11.65" in diameter and the V6/GT rear rotors being 10.5" you could swap to the V6/GT rear brake setup and they would clear no problem. About the best you can do with the V6/GT rear rotors is to get the drilled and vented ones as there are not vented units that I am aware of.
HotFox
15 Year Member
This is the reason I am running non Cobra brake set up, with 15", plus lighter.
As for rear suspension bushings. I split a set at the track years ago. I switched to TeamZ solid set up. If you are launching hard with higher HP I feel solid is the only logical long term solution.
As for rear suspension bushings. I split a set at the track years ago. I switched to TeamZ solid set up. If you are launching hard with higher HP I feel solid is the only logical long term solution.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Was when 4 lug with factory drums and Lincoln front calipers I was on Draglites. Now it is 5 lug with Billet specialist 15x10 rear and 17"x5? out front.
@Noobz347 The spacer idea may still be workable, but I discovered another issue while looking into it. These older Draglites use long shank-style lug nuts, and with the proper single washer the shanks protrude past the rear mounting surface of the wheel and bottom against the rotor before the wheel clamps. A spacer thick enough to address that and clear the banjo bolt would need to be properly made for the application, and I would also need longer wheel studs.
A 3/16-inch spacer might solve both clearance problems, but it would also move the slick outward by 3/16 inch. I have not purchased the slick yet, so I cannot mount the complete package and determine whether that new position will actually fit under the car. There is not much spare room with a 10-inch wheel under a Fox, and I do not want to order a custom spacer, longer studs, and tires only to discover that the combination rubs somewhere else.
At this point I am probably better off selling these for a little more than I paid and looking for a wheel that clears the banjo bolt, seats squarely without a spacer, has the correct lug hardware, and works with my existing roughly 1.5-inch studs. It may cost more up front, but I do not want to keep chasing custom solutions to make a $275 pair of wheels work. This definitely did not become the budget drag-wheel setup I imagined.
@KRUISR I updated the link to a better post that covers the rotor sizes.
Ps. I stripped the rear interior down and got the car to a chassis guy to weld in Battle Boxes, install new WBO2 bungs a bit farther back while clearing the stifflers D/S safety loop, and see if he can do any kind of welding to seal the leaking $1k-to-replace Ron Davis radiator. It's a minor leak, but obviously it's preventing the cooling system from pressurizing, even if it still does a fine job of keeping everything cool.
A 3/16-inch spacer might solve both clearance problems, but it would also move the slick outward by 3/16 inch. I have not purchased the slick yet, so I cannot mount the complete package and determine whether that new position will actually fit under the car. There is not much spare room with a 10-inch wheel under a Fox, and I do not want to order a custom spacer, longer studs, and tires only to discover that the combination rubs somewhere else.
At this point I am probably better off selling these for a little more than I paid and looking for a wheel that clears the banjo bolt, seats squarely without a spacer, has the correct lug hardware, and works with my existing roughly 1.5-inch studs. It may cost more up front, but I do not want to keep chasing custom solutions to make a $275 pair of wheels work. This definitely did not become the budget drag-wheel setup I imagined.
@KRUISR I updated the link to a better post that covers the rotor sizes.
Ps. I stripped the rear interior down and got the car to a chassis guy to weld in Battle Boxes, install new WBO2 bungs a bit farther back while clearing the stifflers D/S safety loop, and see if he can do any kind of welding to seal the leaking $1k-to-replace Ron Davis radiator. It's a minor leak, but obviously it's preventing the cooling system from pressurizing, even if it still does a fine job of keeping everything cool.
Last edited:
The good news: Black Jack is less of a rust bucket now, the shop that installed the torque boxes also cleaned up some rust holes in the rear floor pan, and now the Wild Rides "Battle boxes" are in, the axle tubes are welded up, & the Stifflers D/S safety loop is in. So, it's ready for slicks and driveline violence!
The bad news: It has a bad engine vibration above 2k RPM. This happened simultaneously with picking it up from the shop, but I think the problem is the stock balancer, as I *think* I can see alit wobble at idle. It needs a front main seal anyways. So, do any of you have a quality but affordable balancer or brand you prefer? I'm not looking to sink big money into this motor while I'm prepping to build another engine in another year or so, but I also don't want to install something cheap that may come with problems, either. Just a quality stock replacement would be nice.
Here's some of the floor pan work:
The bad news: It has a bad engine vibration above 2k RPM. This happened simultaneously with picking it up from the shop, but I think the problem is the stock balancer, as I *think* I can see alit wobble at idle. It needs a front main seal anyways. So, do any of you have a quality but affordable balancer or brand you prefer? I'm not looking to sink big money into this motor while I'm prepping to build another engine in another year or so, but I also don't want to install something cheap that may come with problems, either. Just a quality stock replacement would be nice.
Here's some of the floor pan work:
Last edited:
If you are going to build another motor go ahead and pop for a good balancer that can go zero, 28 oz, or 50 oz and just reuse it on the new motor. I have a FMS one that does this and swapped the 50 oz weight to the 28 oz weight when I swapped the 351 in the car.
If you are going to sell or use the existing motor and want to leave the balancer on it then I would go with a Power Bond. Good thread on balancer discussion here:
If you are going to sell or use the existing motor and want to leave the balancer on it then I would go with a Power Bond. Good thread on balancer discussion here:
I knew they did that with flywheels, but not balancers. Cool. I'll look into it. Powerbond is what ChatGPT recommended too. Will read the thread.If you are going to build another motor go ahead and pop for a good balancer that can go zero, 28 oz, or 50 oz and just reuse it on the new motor. I have a FMS one that does this and swapped the 50 oz weight to the 28 oz weight when I swapped the 351 in the car.
If you are going to sell or use the existing motor and want to leave the balancer on it then I would go with a Power Bond. Good thread on balancer discussion here:
of course 
I ordered the Powerbond 1084N stock replacement for $100. If the OEM one made it 35 years, this one can make it another year or 2. I'm leaning towards a Romac Gold for the next build and they don't come with adjustable weights. Plus, like @AeroCoupe said, I want to have a separate running engine while I build the new one. Probably easier to sell when it provably runs.
