been having issues. Now it seems as if I don’t have 5volt reference on tps,egr . How can I test for that? I ran a volt meter ground then to the white black wire nada. Ive been calling ecu exchange & they aren’t responding to my emails any ideas?
No volt reference?
- Thread starter Creomod
- Start date
I believe you need to test between the ground and the 5V reference at the device. Using a chassis ground doesn’t really work.
Found this thread that may help you.
Post in thread 'Tps Troubles. Low Voltage At The Vref Or Org/wht Wire.'
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...-the-vref-or-org-wht-wire.888387/post-8942474
Found this thread that may help you.
Post in thread 'Tps Troubles. Low Voltage At The Vref Or Org/wht Wire.'
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...-the-vref-or-org-wht-wire.888387/post-8942474
Sorry meant to erase the post o do have 5 volt reference I keep getting code 29 the vss i have it in another post, there are some weird things/issues that I have happen on cars I’ve seen. So I’ll ask ,anything that could cause me getting a code 29 other than the normal ? In other words can a diffent sensor like a bad maf cause that? Just asking cuz I’ve been thro everything & can’t figure this out . Until I can borrow/swap another ecu I can’t eliminate that from the equation. I can even get ahold of anyone at ecu exchange. Know another ecu place? I am tempted to take it to altex there is a guy that works on circuit boards but don’t think that car ecus are his expertise
I doubt ECU Exchange will answer the phone but I’ve never tried. Did you send it off to them and have questions or just want to ask them questions to see if you can determine if it needs to be gone through? Of it’s the latter I can tell you it won’t hurt to just send it as pretty much everyone that sends their to them get the power supply and other end of life parts replaced as they are noisy or not up to spec.
If it’s your primary mode of transport then I would highly suggest you just buy a spare. I had three at one point but sold one with a harness as it didn’t make any sense to have three.
If it’s your primary mode of transport then I would highly suggest you just buy a spare. I had three at one point but sold one with a harness as it didn’t make any sense to have three.
No I sent it to them and they said it passed. I thought maybe it was something else on the car but I’ve replaced pretty much everything with exception on spark plugs now I have no idea what to do cuz I don’t have a clue what it could be I already went over everything more then once I did have a da1 but I sold it if I remember correctly it did run with it I think I just disconnected the maf and ran a vacc hose to the map to make it a bap
Hey quick question, if I go with the micro squirt (I’ve had it before) using the data log( not sure how to interpret) think that’s where I can see in real time why the cars running ragged ? I know but I don’t know lol.
Another thing I scince I bought the car (22years) it’s been running 30 lb fuel injectors. I can’t swap them. I’ve tried already I put the new 19s from lmr and I don’t remember cuz it’s benn a while but I know I didn’t like the way it was running with those might have been running too lean on afr I think that’s why I can’t run them. But…. I think I can get a reaction from the car by swapping to those 30 from lmr,I’m not gonna buy them I’m gonna get them off a volvo same bosh part number as the ones from lmr . I swear bro it’s almost like a misfire, I used a temp gun yesterday & all cylinders are the same more or less so I’m at my wits end. I swapped everything & I even did the speeding male pins on the shakers,redid the lower intake gasket,checked vacuum leaks ,swapped distbutor,wires,sensors,relays fp,regulator,filters,ran compression test,checked wires & nothing meltedexposed to heat,It’s been my daily all around town & now I’m having issues. I tested ohmd the plugs both sides they test good,the injectors,omh tested,but 9 volt battery cleaned them with the injector connector to battery to soray with the tire value the soliods click,12 v key on at every connector,they have injector pulse looked for kicked fuel hose nothing the ones up front I swapped to the rubber ones lmr,I did all the crank no start even tho car runs & ideal checklist & still I have a noticeable lack of power. I can feel it it’s not dealing right erratic at times unless I push the gas & yes it’s shuts off. Sent ecu they said it’s good. Tightened bolts at headers,new o2 sensors,afr sensor distbutor dynomod. Swapped coil,ignition switch,act sensor. The thermactor plugs it’s a pain in the ass to remove those & I seriously doubt it he will that.cleaned the air filter. I also think going back to the microsquirt there is a process to pull the codes if you wanna pull them with the microsquirt & I think I didn’t want to bother with it(that & the fact I don’t know how to tune) so I sold it & sent my a9l to ecu exchange got it back & I’ve been running it ever scince. Not sure if a capacitor can go bad in 6 years but it has to be cuz I haven’t done anything no radio,alarm or lights no electrical changes no lighting storm so I know I didn’t damage it again not sure if capacitors can go bad that quick . Not sure how traces are burned just letting you know that i haven’t done anything crazy electrical to it just ran it to from work everyday . I start car for a while parked shut off,run codes,85,11 I go for a drive hit 40 or so(no check engine light) run codes get 85,10,29 & the 29 is continus. I just emailed that guy from badshoe productions Kennith ,& he said the vss has nothing to do with the car running ragged he said I can disconnect it . But I think there is a problem in the ecu causing my car to run ragged the code is just the ecu telling me there is a problem in it is what I’m assuming . Sorry bro just wanted to let you know what the deal pretty much is.
With regards to the 30 lb/hr injectors, do you have a calibrated MAF? If so what brand and model?
I went back to one of your many threads (this is why progress threads are so nice as all the info is in one spot) and you keep mentioning (or at least I think you do) wiring issues related to the instrument cluster like the fuel gauge not reading at times. Has all of that been addressed?
I went back to one of your many threads (this is why progress threads are so nice as all the info is in one spot) and you keep mentioning (or at least I think you do) wiring issues related to the instrument cluster like the fuel gauge not reading at times. Has all of that been addressed?
Surely you know that you can't just swap injectors on these cars and do nothing else.
The EEC has [zero] ability to adjust for that.
The EEC has [zero] ability to adjust for that.
Yes! The fist time my car broke down along the hiway I tried to start it & the fuel gauge did not move. I replaced the fuel pump,the filter,relay & inspected the injectors the best I could. It did it again got towed so I bought a new dynomod distributor. My car was in good shape it was reliable & o had it too top.
what I’m saying is maybe a transistor or something in the ecu might have a problem/burned trace & the injectors I’m running are 30s,same as the 30s that lmr sells. I know that the original red 30s are the only injectors my car likes. I have zero clue of the maf match’s because it’s an original one I can tell. So I have no idea if they match I’m assuming that they do match be five had my car running for years that way but when I rebuilt the engine 7 years back I went all out & bought everything new I tried to buy new injectors the 30s from lmr & I don’t remember what it was but my car didn’t like them.
O and the maf injectors & ecu came on the car & it’s been running for years with no issues but when I tried to replace the injectors my car didn’t like them so I stuck with these original ones & have t had a issue till now. Maybe the injectors are still good just need to know maybe one isn’t giving the same amount of fuel & maybe that’s causeing my engine not to be as efficient?
Toss up a pic of the ID plate and/or numbers on your MAF when you get the chance.
By the way the msd box is not connected I just have it in there it’s been there for years I disconnected it when I found out it was bad. I’ve been running the car for years . I can open the ecu in the morning there is no chip & in the ecu or in the kick panel of any kind
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That looks like a C&L MAF housing. It likely has a sample tube in it.
The sample tube for 30lb injectors on the 73mm housing should be RED (#103).
The sample tube for 30lb injectors on the 73mm housing should be RED (#103).
I’ve ran it that way for a while now with no issues. I had bought a rebuilt 302 ,put my own gt 40 heads and all the rest of the upgrades you can do .its been my daily & now it just has almost like a misfire. To me when the car acts up,it really acts up . So now I have like this issue where car shuts off dosent ideal right & feels a little shaky like a misfire I can see it vibrating almost like it’s in limp mode .I have not done anything to it just drove it no racing.
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Noobz beat me to it. I was Making good and sure I remembered what a C&L looked like. I had a BBK cold air and if you clamp the blue boots down on a 55mm housing it’s ugly looking as the stock MAF housing is about 2-1/2” OD vs the boots being around 3” ID. Those boots are tight which leads you to a larger MAF.
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