Well, thats very kind of you. One question, do I already have the spyder and dogbones? Are they on a stock engine? If so, can they be reused? These are bolted down in the lifter/intake valley right?
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Back to the battery cable.
Here's the alternator cable with the fuse which i think is fine, just need to know if it running to the solenoid is better/worse than directly to the battery (from @AeroCoupe 's post saying dealer choice i guess it doesn't matter, unless it does because now my charging current flows back through the now smaller positive battery cable?):
and for reference here's the old positive battery cable i replaced. What it looks like the PO did was use a 2awg cable but a 0awg terminal and he stuffed two 'extra' wires in there so the terminal would work with the 2awg cable:
Now i just have a clean well built 4awg positive cable.
Here's the alternator cable with the fuse which i think is fine, just need to know if it running to the solenoid is better/worse than directly to the battery (from @AeroCoupe 's post saying dealer choice i guess it doesn't matter, unless it does because now my charging current flows back through the now smaller positive battery cable?):
and for reference here's the old positive battery cable i replaced. What it looks like the PO did was use a 2awg cable but a 0awg terminal and he stuffed two 'extra' wires in there so the terminal would work with the 2awg cable:
Now i just have a clean well built 4awg positive cable.
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Well I may have done something right. Bought the correct NPT adapter to have a dedicated boost gauge line once I can get this installed finally:
I’ll take small victories with every other damn problem I’m experiencing.
I’ll take small victories with every other damn problem I’m experiencing.
Yeah man you are good either way. I would definitely look to see if he also upgraded the battery ground wire. I highly recommend you go battery to k-member and k-member to the block.
With regards to gaskets for the heads, TFS shows the exhaust ports to measure 1.250" x 1.500" and the intake ports to measure 2.000" x 1.200". I would run Remflex for the exhaust gaskets which is their product code 3003. For the intake side I would run the Felpro 1250 S3 with the steel core.
With regards to gaskets for the heads, TFS shows the exhaust ports to measure 1.250" x 1.500" and the intake ports to measure 2.000" x 1.200". I would run Remflex for the exhaust gaskets which is their product code 3003. For the intake side I would run the Felpro 1250 S3 with the steel core.
Bought the heads like 8 months ago, haven’t even opened the boxes. Now they are buried (purposely) deeeep in the garage.
Ok so i know you guys probably get frustrated with me spending the time to help diagnose things and outlining steps needed and then i do like 10% of what you suggest. So that does not go unnoticed.
Today, quickly and clandestinely (at work in the parking lot) i compression checked two more easily accessible cylinders, #5 and 6. So my partial dry compression numbers are:
#5 - 136psi
#6 - 134psi
#7 - 136psi (from my previous test)
All in all, i know this isn't as helpful as a full compression check on each cylinder, but at least it points to somewhat 'good' news that my troublesome #7 cylinder is at least in line with a few other cylinders.
Today, quickly and clandestinely (at work in the parking lot) i compression checked two more easily accessible cylinders, #5 and 6. So my partial dry compression numbers are:
#5 - 136psi
#6 - 134psi
#7 - 136psi (from my previous test)
All in all, i know this isn't as helpful as a full compression check on each cylinder, but at least it points to somewhat 'good' news that my troublesome #7 cylinder is at least in line with a few other cylinders.
One thing I forgot to mention is to check the head bolt hole size on the heads. My guess is they are 1/2” and if that is the case you will need some machined bushings.
As for the cylinder head alignment dowels you should be able to use the ones already on the motor. If you need new ones you can get them from most online stores:
And some brick and mortar stores (verify that these fit but I think they do):
As for the cylinder head alignment dowels you should be able to use the ones already on the motor. If you need new ones you can get them from most online stores:
And some brick and mortar stores (verify that these fit but I think they do):
Man this stuff makes my head spin. TrickFlow themselves recently sent me a Twisted Wedge specification sheet when i was asking about the guideplates and dowels and thermactor plugs. There is a note on it, shown here:
I have the ARP-154-4201 which are the 12pt 7/16" "Pro Series" studs, the ARP-154-4205 P/N listed above in their specification sheet seem to be the exact same ARP studs (12pt 7/16") but with reducer bushings.... so yes looks like i will need to buy reducer bushings. But i get it now, the Trickflow heads have a hole for 1/2" bolts/studs, our 302 block takes 7/16" bolts/studs so you need the reducer bushings to center the 7/16" bolts/studs inside the 1/2" head hole.
I feel like this stuff would all make more sense when you're actually doing the work with parts in front of you. Maybe i should try and hold off and tackle this install myself (good learning experience) when i'm back in the house.
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You are not driving the car much right now anyhow so I say hold off. That and there is always project creep especially in home remodels so hold on to your $$$.
Wife and I were just discussing replacing 5 more existing windows, replacing a French door and adding a completely new French door in a spare bedroom.
That and then she goes, I hate our existing hall bathroom we should have that done as well… yes scope creep is real.
Just like cars, the ‘while I’m in there’ really gets ya.
Well look at it this way, when it is all said and done and you want a new motor for the Mustang because you hate the old one she will understand.
Apparently to we won’t have any money when this is all done!
Alright, battery problem seems to be persisting. Drove the car to work today and on the freeway the battery light would start sporadically flickering, no defined rhythm or anything. Light went off completely when i got off the freeway and was on side streets. So, i called Costco and they sell Group 65 Interstate AGM batteries (i've read this type of battery is an 'upgrade'?), but i'm also thinking potentially the alternator is going bad.
I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet as I haven't done any diagnosing. I'll probably take the car (when i can, soon) to Autozone or something to have both the battery and alternator tested. I don't have access to my multimeter at the moment and don't want to buy a duplicate one just for this.
IF the alternator is going bad, any recommendations on a replacement 130amp 3G alternator? LMR SVE brand, other brand?
I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet as I haven't done any diagnosing. I'll probably take the car (when i can, soon) to Autozone or something to have both the battery and alternator tested. I don't have access to my multimeter at the moment and don't want to buy a duplicate one just for this.
IF the alternator is going bad, any recommendations on a replacement 130amp 3G alternator? LMR SVE brand, other brand?
I’ve always used parts house branded Sn/3G alternators without much issue. Have you checked the diode/connection/wire to the alternator ?
Have em tested. Go from there.
My PA performance alternator seems good so far. They are 100% new parts, not rebuilt.
On the battery, remember the leads on our batteries are reversed from typical. So consider the length of your cables on if they will work with whatever battery you go with. Just something to think about if you haven't already
Also, the AGM batteries are taller. I just went through this, so you'll want to do some measuring first. Didn't work out for me....
I'd probably toss a battery in there either way. You were saying it's due date is here I believe.
My PA performance alternator seems good so far. They are 100% new parts, not rebuilt.
On the battery, remember the leads on our batteries are reversed from typical. So consider the length of your cables on if they will work with whatever battery you go with. Just something to think about if you haven't already
Also, the AGM batteries are taller. I just went through this, so you'll want to do some measuring first. Didn't work out for me....
I'd probably toss a battery in there either way. You were saying it's due date is here I believe.
