Yeah but I don't have time to read it today that's why I was just asking in a nutshell lol. But all good maybe I will at some point get time to check it out
Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build
- Thread starter Habu135
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gotcha. I did not see this reply. Maybe it was an overlap between reading one of the last posts and your next reply. I think that's easy sometimes if it's a simoutaneous reply/read something along that line...
It's crazy how I replied to your latest topic this morning and ended up checking your thread to see about your engine progress. I didn't have time to look at every page so I picked every 2 pages as the forum skips odd numbers so I just pick the next number and got up to where you were having similar issues to what I'm experiencing after my vortech install on my 94 Cobra.
My issue didn't start till after the SC install and actually when it hesitates and bucks, misses it seems to go away the harder I accelerate. At first it seemed to only do it upon taking off after letting the car warm up but would smooth right out after taking off. I had the tuner change the startup tune and IIRC I think it helped some but the problem still persists. I installed a walbro 255 and 60 lb injectors and had an SCT dyno tune done. I put the 255 in prior to the SC install as I was waiting on the SC to come and I did not have any issues so I wouldn't think it's pump related. I'm getting 13 plus volts at the inertia but i do need to verify volts at the pump. I have to research what wires need to be probed as I briefly today while it was running, i stuck the tip of the probe in the connector but maybe it was not reaching the metal to make contact because i didn't get a reading. I tried 2 wires of the 3 or 4 it has.
I had 2 Taylor plug wires that were iffy because of the wire to boot contact on no. 4 and the terminal was stuck on the plug when I removed the wire the no. 6 so I put on my 2 old FR wires on just to test. I checked for arcing last night and didn't see any at all. I tried another coil as well and also another tfi module. I went back to the coil i originally had on the car today after swapping back on the tfi I removed for another I had lying around, and it actually drove fine and seemed like it was fixed. I went home and knew I was going back out on a 35 minute round trip drive and on the way there it wasn't too bad but on the way back it came back. It was not as bad as it was yesterday though but something is still going on. Just went outside because I was curious. I looked last night in the garage and didn't see any arcing anywhere. The coil I removed this morning, when put the original one back on the car drove better. So last night maybe I didn't look hard enough because tonight I actually looked harder at the coil from different angles, leaning over and stuff and I saw arcing inside the rim of the frame that seats the coil. So I assume that is definitely a problem and I need a new one. Gonna see now what those part number of the 2 coils are. The one that was on that seems to run better is 4G20B and the other is 4G30B ( unless that's an O).
I hope it' just the coil, I don't see any sparks on the wires at all even though the wires are not new. I will replace them at some point but was just trying to diagnose and eliminate stuff. Just checked my timing cover by the way and that looks fine.
Adding this post to my ongoing build progress.
I'm in the process of swapping out a Trick Flow R Series upper intake (bottom photo) with a Trick Flow Box R upper intake (top photo). During installation I quickly realized that my Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is hitting the back passenger's side of the new Box R intake. It appears I need to relocate my FPR which will also trigger a requirement for new fuel rails. I'd appreciate anyone sharing with me what parts are needed for this swap as well as any other suggestions you have. Thanks
It's official: That cap swap does not work on our distributors.
The distributor that it does work on has the extra set of clips to hold that spacer down.
For some reason, they added that spacer to Duraspark distributors to make them compatible with ours. The spacer and mount for the spacer is different and don't mate up.
The distributor that it does work on has the extra set of clips to hold that spacer down.
For some reason, they added that spacer to Duraspark distributors to make them compatible with ours. The spacer and mount for the spacer is different and don't mate up.
Good looking out there. Odd that they would add the spacer. Sort of a reverse compatability thing. Thanks for doing that research. Seems like one of the few options is a Holley low rise distributor.
After nearly a month of my car up on jacks doing trial and error on the new Box R intake and replacing the Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a stock style, I took it for a spirited drive. Assessing and listening the whole time and then got into it a bit. Stopped to listen and heard and smelled radiator fluid belching out the lower front half of the engine just above the main crank pulley. WTH?!?! Nursed it home and looked underneath and it appears that the water pump gasket blew out just above the main pulley. I even added fresh water to the radiator and sure enough it's just leaking out. Is this a thing? Ugh!!
And I had no leaks from it. So it just blows? Bizarre.
Big car show on 24 May for Memorial Day. So I need to get it up and running again. Ill pull the water pump on Saturday and will figure it out.
Big car show on 24 May for Memorial Day. So I need to get it up and running again. Ill pull the water pump on Saturday and will figure it out.
So the only part of the gasket that actually holds water is the parts around the two long bolts i.e. the water passages. If the bottom blew out then one or both of the water passage seals let go.
I just rethought my previous statement and between the water pump backing plate and the timing cover my thought is correct but between the pump and backing plate it could leak everywhere.
I have literally found that after a couple heat cycles you can retorque the bolts on the water pump as they generally need it. Hopefully it was just that.
I have literally found that after a couple heat cycles you can retorque the bolts on the water pump as they generally need it. Hopefully it was just that.
Most definitely blew the water pump gasket. And thinking back for the past few days, l do remember a slight leak ever since initial engine install by my mechanic.
Any suggestions from you all how to reinstall this securely so I never have to deal with a leaking water pump again is much appreciated. Stuff like, dry install or add some sealant? Thanks
Any suggestions from you all how to reinstall this securely so I never have to deal with a leaking water pump again is much appreciated. Stuff like, dry install or add some sealant? Thanks
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