01 Won't start (loose wire?)

1

1eo

New Member

Jun 8, 2007

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Oct 27, 2011

#1

• Oct 27, 2011

• #1

One morning my car decided it didn't want to start anymore ...

The battery has plenty of juice and it cranks with enthusiasm.

It looked very similar to the time when my car will not start because I had a magnetic key next to my car key (Theft Light blinking)... So I figure the key was bad and had the mustanf towed to the Dealership for a new key.

The Dealership told me that the key was fine and that they found a loose wire that was causing the problem (They said the wire goes from the battery to the PCM, but I have no idea which wire it's).

Drove the car home fine. Then a couple of days later, I got the same problem.... does anyone know which wire could it be? (A picture would be great) is this a common problem?

Thanks!

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 28, 2011

#2

• Oct 28, 2011

• #2

Try by pulling the passenger kick panel and seee if all the connections are proper...then try to follow them to see where a disconnection might be.

 

1

1eo

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Jun 8, 2007

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Oct 28, 2011

#3

• Oct 28, 2011

• #3

Three50won said:

Try by pulling the passenger kick panel and seee if all the connections are proper...then try to follow them to see where a disconnection might be.

Click to expand...

I took the side panel out... but there is **** load of cables! I will continue moving them around and see if I can find anything loose



brb

 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician

Aug 14, 2009

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Oct 28, 2011

#4

• Oct 28, 2011

• #4

I'm trying to figure out a way to answer this thread without sounding rude.

You know, there must be 1000's of wires that if loose, could cause a crank with no-start. This thead is so vauge as there's no real answer that someone out in Internet land can help with.

But if looking for a SINGLE wire that goes to the battery, focus on the Black wires with white stripes that connect to the grounds around the radiator core support.

IMO, you should not be looking for a loose wire at the PCM bundle.

Have you considered contacting the Ford dealer that did the work and ask for a copy of the service report?

 

1

1eo

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Jun 8, 2007

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Oct 28, 2011

#5

• Oct 28, 2011

• #5

wmburns said:

I'm trying to figure out a way to answer this thread without sounding rude.

You know, there must be 1000's of wires that if loose, could cause a crank with no-start. This thead is so vauge as there's no real answer that someone out in Internet land can help with.

But if looking for a SINGLE wire that goes to the battery, focus on the Black wires with white stripes that connect to the grounds around the radiator core support.

IMO, you should not be looking for a loose wire at the PCM bundle.

Have you considered contacting the Ford dealer that did the work and ask for a copy of the service report?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.... I was hoping that perhaps it was a know issue on these type of cars and that certain wire was know to go bad, and it was easy to locate

I really, hate taking the car to the dealer again as I'm not sure if they are going to try pulling a fast on me like..... I don't know.... I need to replace the entire OEM wiring harness or something like that.

 

wmburns

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Oct 28, 2011

#6

• Oct 28, 2011

• #6

If you can not:

• Verify that the battery cables are clean and tight.
• Verify that the battery negative clamp isn't split/broken.
• Visually inspect the body grounding bonds next to the battery on top of the radiator core support.

You should consider staying with a professional mechanic.

I wasn't suggesting taking it to the dealer, but calling the dealer for a service report regarding the previous repair.

 

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1eo

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Jun 8, 2007

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Oct 28, 2011

#7

• Oct 28, 2011

• #7

I wasn't suggesting taking it to the dealer, but calling the dealer for a service report regarding the previous repair.
Lol, I little too late for me. I called a mechanic but he didn't want to mess-up with wires and suggested to take it back to the dealer.
I figured it was 50/50 that they will come up some new ****.
Well, the new diagnostic is "a complete different issue, my fuel pump is completely dead $900"
Now, I'm kinda pissed.... I'm pretty sure, the pump was on it's last leg and there was nothing wrong with the wires.

Right now I'm on my phone, so it is hard to do a search. How hard is to replace the fuel pump?
I remember back when I had my 93 z28 camaro, people recommended to cut a access panel to save time and having to avoid dropping the rear. Are there any tricks or tutorials for a 01 gt?

 

wmburns

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Oct 28, 2011

#8

• Oct 28, 2011

• #8

I presume that you have faith in the diagnostic.

The fuel tank on the Mustang is one of the easiest cars to drop there are. There are tons of write-ups on how to do. The Ford service manual has a good step by step as will as Chilton's and Haynes. I prefer to use a professional write up with the forums to fill in the gaps.

For example, the write-ups on the forums will not always mention to cut out the old gas tank grommet before dropping the tank. If this step isn't done, damage to the filler neck roll over check valve is likely.

The forums won't always mention how easy it is to damage the fuel sending unit. If care is not taken removing the fuel pump, the next thread is, "my gas gauge doesn't work after FP repair".

 

1

1eo

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Oct 29, 2011

#9

• Oct 29, 2011

• #9

Do you recommend any aftermarket fuel pumps?

Would this be a direct replacement?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATX-E2366/

thanks

 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician

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Oct 29, 2011

#10

• Oct 29, 2011

• #10

1eo said:

Do you recommend any aftermarket fuel pumps?

Click to expand...

That depends on how you plan to use the car.

IMO, for a DD, a stock fuel pump is best.

1eo said:

Would this be a direct replacement?
Airtex 110-E2366 - Airtex Electric In-Tank Fuel Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com

thanks

Click to expand...

The Web site says it will work.

Since you asked for my opinion, for a DD application, I would go to my local autoparts store and buy from there. Then if there is a problem, you could go back and look someone in the eye.

 

Three50won

10 Year Member

Jul 11, 2010

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Oct 29, 2011

#11

• Oct 29, 2011

• #11

IMO I'd say go ahead and upgrade the pump now...since you're gonna swap it out anyway. At least that way it's a done deal when you upgrade. No sense in dropping the tank and spending money for a stock pump just to drop it all over again and spend even more money on another pump. I have a Cobra tank with dual 255 pumps in my 03 (see the mods in my sig). Overkill yes, def, without a doubt...but the car has had soo many combinations from a built 4.6 with 15lbs of boost to a built 5.4 with 15lbs of boost. The pumps have no effect on my cars driveability or my gas mileage plus I'm planning another combo that's gonna need them in a couple months...so they can stay for now. Just my opinion, upgrade now...

 

Hardtop68

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Oct 30, 2011

#12

• Oct 30, 2011

• #12

Did you check 12 volts are present at fuel pump connector when turning the ignition? There is a fuel pump relay inside the front passenger side fender (CCRM)...

If not, there are several threads on this forum, search for CCRM...