'02 Stock Stang missing/hesitating

Joshual11

New Member

Mar 8, 2007

7

0

0

Michigan

Jun 30, 2008

#1

• Jun 30, 2008

• #1

My stock GT will hesitate or feel like it's missing whenever I'm around 1800-2000 rpm. I have a 5-speed and it doesn't matter what gear I'm in.

I have 74,000 miles on it. The air filter is fine and just had the oil changed and fuel injector cleaner added. Will changing the spark plug help this and if so, how difficult is it to change them?

Any suggestions and advice would be appreciated.

 

P

poindexternasty

New Member

Apr 29, 2008

148

0

0

Jun 30, 2008

#2

• Jun 30, 2008

• #2

I am having the same problem on the same car. mine is stock as well. Have you changed the plugs? Make sure you gap them to factory spec... i think .052 or .054. Have you inspected/replaced your coil on plug boots? I need to do this.

Try cleaning the Mass Air Flow meter with Electric Parts cleaning spray. You could also clean the IAC and TPS, if applicable.

Have you changed your PCV valve since you bought the car? If it is one of the "twist-out" that is removed by turning it counterclockwise one-quarter of a turn, get ford part EV257. It is about $12 at the dealership. None of the parts stores carry this PCV valve. You must obtain it at the stealership.

If you fix your missing/hesitating problem, please let me know. Maybe we can solve this mystery together.

 

Joshual11

New Member

Mar 8, 2007

7

0

0

Michigan

Jun 30, 2008

#3

• Jun 30, 2008

• #3

I haven't done anything else besides oil change and air filter. I will try the spark plugs first, because I've noticed that my gas mileage has slightly decreased since I've had it. My average is about 19 mpg combined city/highway.

Anyone have any tips or suggestions on spark plugs? Location? Difficulty? Time?
I changed them on my 98 V-6 but obviously it's a different motor. Are they harder to get to? What brand are the best? Motorcraft, Bosch, Split fire or Iridium?

 

P

poindexternasty

New Member

Apr 29, 2008

148

0

0

Jun 30, 2008

#4

• Jun 30, 2008

• #4

Get OEM plugs from the dealer. Or you can get Autolite. Not sure of the part #, shouldn't be hard to find. Dont use the Bosch Platinum 4 BS, either. Just go OEM on these.

They are not difficult to change. You simply unscrew the screws securing the coil on plugs to the engine. Once they are loose, pull them up and out of the spark plug recessed tube.

Use your spark plug socket to very gently remove the plug from the head. You really don't want to strip one of these so take your time. Even on what should be the easiest job, one can always make mistakes.

Good luck

 

Stark77

Member

Jun 11, 2008

501

0

16

Tallahassee, FL

Jun 30, 2008

#5

• Jun 30, 2008

• #5

Mine was doing the same thing, ended up one of my coil plugs was lose/had moisture in the terminal. Unplug all the terminals and then re-plug them back in. That fixed the trick for me.

 

H

HOOCBB

New Member

Jun 5, 2008

90

3

0

Jun 30, 2008

#6

• Jun 30, 2008

• #6

poindexternasty said:

They are not difficult to change. You simply unscrew the screws securing the coil on plugs to the engine. Once they are loose, pull them up and out of the spark plug recessed tube.

Click to expand...

I was looking at my 02 the other day while I doing something totally unrelated to spark and correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't he have to remove the fuel rails to get to the COPs and plugs?

 

Hardtop68

Founding Member

Aug 23, 1999

193

1

16

Wherever they need me

Jun 30, 2008

#7

• Jun 30, 2008

• #7

HOOCBB said:

I was looking at my 02 the other day while I doing something totally unrelated to spark and correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't he have to remove the fuel rails to get to the COPs and plugs?

Click to expand...

There is no need to remove the fuel rail... before removing the coils, look for a multimeter and measure the impedances on both the high- and low-impedance sides of each coil... I don't remember the numbers but I think it shoud be like 55K ohm and 5K ohm respectively... if you remove the plugs use a antiseize lubricant on the threads before reinstalling them...

 

P

poindexternasty

New Member

Apr 29, 2008

148

0

0

Jun 30, 2008

#8

• Jun 30, 2008

• #8

Hardtop, where are the high and low sections of the spark plug?

Thanks

 

H

HOOCBB

New Member

Jun 5, 2008

90

3

0

Jul 1, 2008

#9

• Jul 1, 2008

• #9

Hardtop68 said:

There is no need to remove the fuel rail... before removing the coils, look for a multimeter and measure the impedances on both the high- and low-impedance sides of each coil... I don't remember the numbers but I think it shoud be like 55K ohm and 5K ohm respectively... if you remove the plugs use a antiseize lubricant on the threads before reinstalling them...

Click to expand...

But wouldn't the rail need to be removed to remove the COPs to get to the plugs themselves? I haven't had to do it myself yet, but they appear to sit directly under the fuel rail on mine.

 

P

poindexternasty

New Member

Apr 29, 2008

148

0

0

Jul 1, 2008

#10

• Jul 1, 2008

• #10

No, do not remove the fuel rail. Just do the COPs one at a time.

 

Hardtop68

Founding Member

Aug 23, 1999

193

1

16

Wherever they need me

Jul 1, 2008

#11

• Jul 1, 2008

• #11

Yes, the rails are directly on top but the plug holes are not pointing straight up... I use a long extension...

Primary (low impedance) coil is fed with battery voltage from the harness. It is measured across the two pins on the COP connector.

The secondary coil (high impedance) amplifies battery voltage sent to the plug. It is measured accros one of the pins and the spark plug connector inside the COP boot.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,216

17,899

224

Massachusetts

Jul 1, 2008

#12

• Jul 1, 2008

• #12

NAPA and Autozone sells the plugs. Motorcraft SP-493's. OEM replacement.

Be careful when putting them in. Do not overtorque them. I beleive 14 ft-lbs is the MAX you should go with the plugs. The threads on the heads can be stripped easily.


Oh...change the fuel filter as well. Ford part only. NAPA sells it.

 

Hardtop68

Founding Member

Aug 23, 1999

193

1

16

Wherever they need me

Jul 1, 2008

#13

• Jul 1, 2008

• #13

Do not forget to blow the engine with compressed air before removing the COP, and blow the spark plug hole before removing the plug to avoid debris to fall into the cylinder and cause damage... I use to do each coil and spark plug one by one...