03 Mustang Throwout Bearing spins

Chaseskywalker

New Member
Jun 1, 2019
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Indiana
Hi all,
I've got a 2003 Mustang GT 5 speed. Has a 2000 motor, brand new 10.5 flywheel and clutch, and a TR3650 .When the clutch is engaged I can hear the throw out bearing spinning. I've got a firewall adjuster and a double hook quadrant, but the clutch already releases at the very top of the pedal so I can't really adjust it out any more. It seems like the bearing stops spinning when the clutch disengages.

From what I've read, this isn't normal, but I can't really find a solution to my problem anywhere.

Some additional info: OEM Clutch Cable, Steeda Double Hook Quadrant, Steeda Firewall adjuster, new Valeo 10.5 clutch, Fidanza lightweight 8-bolt flywheel, McLeod clutch fork, pivot stud didn't look worn.
 
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Hi all,
I've got a 2003 Mustang GT 5 speed. Has a 2000 motor, brand new 10.5 flywheel and clutch, and a TR3650 .When the clutch is engaged I can hear the throw out bearing spinning. I've got a firewall adjuster and a double hook quadrant, but the clutch already releases at the very top of the pedal so I can't really adjust it out any more. It seems like the bearing stops spinning when the clutch disengages.

From what I've read, this isn't normal, but I can't really find a solution to my problem anywhere.

Some additional info: OEM Clutch Cable, Steeda Double Hook Quadrant, Steeda Firewall adjuster, new Valeo 10.5 clutch, Fidanza lightweight 8-bolt flywheel, McLeod clutch fork, pivot stud didn't look worn.
Hi,
Do you have an adjustable cable as well, to factor out cable stretch? Steeds makes more than one quadrant, what part # is the Steeda quadrant. Are you fighting between that adjustment and the preload, clutch slippage?
Are you running a lightened steel Fidanza, or an aluminum one with the steel insert?
OE or aftermarket TOB?
Best!
-John
 
I dont have an adjustable cable, unfortunately. The quadrant is part number 555 7000, and I have the aluminum flywheel with the steel insert, also I'm using Valeo's throwout bearing, not an OEM one.

It does seem that I'm fighting that, I havent tried pulling the firewall adjuster out anymore, though, because I'm worried about it slipping (and it's a pain in the ass)
 
Hi,
You should have (2) points of attachment from your quadrant. Adjust the lower clutch fork cable adjustment to the middle, thread in the firewall adjuster until you can get the cable in the closest quadrant cable mount to the one closest to the firewall.
Once you catch it, adjust the firewall adjuster until you can remove any slack, then fine tune it with the fork’s cable adjuster. Once the Throwout bearing is just barely crouching the clutch fingers.
Then tweak your final adjustments, if a large adjustment is required, take it up with the firewall adjuster. Fine adjustment with the threaded shank of the cable entering the fork, that you placed in the middle of the adjustment.previously.
It’s a matter of stopping, and starting the adjustment as if you never touched it before. Preload of the TOB should be about a dimes width into the clutch fingers.
After you went through all this, post it so we can see if you need to alter anything else.
Take your time, remove everything, check things out, even that the quadrant is properly aligned, the pivot shaft has no play in it, the quadrant is tight to the shaft, the bearings installed correctly (shine a light in, so you’re positive the TOB retaining clip is properly mounted on the bearing. Then adjust, as aforementioned.
Good luck!
-John
PS an adjustable midsection cable is not generally required, if you run out of cable to land in the right spot on the quadrant, pull the cable out of the Fork, get everything landed, use a crowbar to move the fork to catch the cable, adjust it back until it’s correct.
 
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