1/4 Mile Gain With Slicks?

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

My car has gt40p heads, long tubes, 355 gears, stock intake, 5 speed, and 225 tires.
My quickest time is 14 flat with a 2.0 60ft time with one tire spinning and i average at about 96 mph. Sometimes I hit 86 to 89 mph and still get a 14.2. Anyways, I'm not very consistent with this car because of the tires. I have to baby the throttle out of first and my 1-2 shift I have to ease into or else ill spin and sit there.
So I'm debating if my next purchase should be slicks. My goal is to make this car run in the 12s. Talking to guys at the track and from what ive seen before i believe slicks would let me hit a 12 if I drive it aggressive enough. What do yall think?
Apart of me also wants to just put my explorer intake on and rebuild my trac lok to see how fast I can get it with these tires. I made my own class to race in, (225 outlaw) and im the current champ/only competitor lol.

FastDriver · Dec 25, 2015

I'm in your class with Black Jack. Best so far was a 12.63 on a 1.83 60' running stock-ish (225/50/16) Goodyear Eagle GT tires.

Anyway, if I were you, I would be looking at a good set of drag radials. Mickey Ts, M&H, Nitto, and BF G all make good ones, and I think you'd be surprised what kind of times a drag radial can pull out of the hole. With some simple suspension mods, a good drag radial, you'll be struggling not to bog with those gears. With your current set up, you might consider going up to 4.10s or even 4.30s. Drag Radials are more controllable (less sway), can be run on the street, and actually have less rolling resistance.

Disclaimer: running sticky tires and more than stock power through a stock T5 transmission will eventually lead to violent tranny death. So, if you're going to do it, avoid power shifting.

A5literMan · Dec 25, 2015

Your not going to run 12's with just slicks and your current combo. If you're only trapping mid 90's you could get into the mid 13's though. You need to up the horsepower a little,better suspension,and a good tire before 12's are obtained. And get your rear fixed lol.

FastDriver · Dec 25, 2015

A5literMan said:
Your not going to run 12's with just slicks and your current combo. If you're only trapping mid 90's you could get into the mid 13's though. You need to up the horsepower a little,better suspension,and a good tire before 12's are obtained. And get your rear fixed lol.

The parts he has should do it, but you're right about the trap speed. I think that his stock intake is really holding him back. He might need a couple other minor things like TB/MAF/Pullies/ remove silencer (if by some strange reason it wasn't already), bump timing. I agree with you though. Before he blows money on tires, he should keep working on the motor until the traps are in the 103+ range. Then suspension/tires should get him into the 12s no problem.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

Thanks for the input. I already have tubular rear upper and lowers and an s box. I had some adjustable steinjagers but there was some play in them where it connects to the rear end. I also have the timing set at 13 and have a cone filter. I figured the stock intake is holding me back but like I said my goal was to get in the 12s and ill be happy. I might put it on anyways and see what it does then get new tires!

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

FastDriver said:
I'm in your class with Black Jack. Best so far was a 12.63 on a 1.83 60' running stock-ish (225/50/16) Goodyear Eagle GT tires.

Anyway, if I were you, I would be looking at a good set of drag radials. Mickey Ts, M&H, Nitto, and BF G all make good ones, and I think you'd be surprised what kind of times a drag radial can pull out of the hole. With some simple suspension mods, a good drag radial, you'll be struggling not to bog with those gears. With your current set up, you might consider going up to 4.10s or even 4.30s. Drag Radials are more controllable (less sway), can be run on the street, and actually have less rolling resistance.

Disclaimer: running sticky tires and more than stock power through a stock T5 transmission will eventually lead to violent tranny death. So, if you're going to do it, avoid power shifting.

What did you have done to your car? Very curious. I've been wondering if my car is actually running to its full potential as it is. Do you think I should be trapping a higher mph with my setup?

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

I forgot to mention I have an E cam.

A5literMan · Dec 25, 2015

You definetly need a better intake/throttle body,etc. it should trap around 102-103 with those mods. And then with some slicks or I like M&H dot bias ply tires. Then with aggressive driving you'll have 12's

FastDriver · Dec 25, 2015

OneWheelPeel said:
What did you have done to your car? Very curious. I've been wondering if my car is actually running to its full potential as it is. Do you think I should be trapping a higher mph with my setup?

You can read all about Black Jack's combo and my progress getting the ET down here:
Fox - New Hatchback | Mustang Forums at StangNet

So, GT40P heads do not flow as well as the GT40X heads on Black Jack. That said, no, you aren't getting the potential out of them. The Intake/TB/MAF on the stock 5.0 is extremely restrictive. Together, they are actually more restrictive than the stock heads. You will notice quite a difference when you've got a freer flowing intake tract before the GT40P heads. I'm sure you're going to pick up some nice power and shift the power band upwards in RPM significantly.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

Alright thanks everyone! I'm pretty excited to put the intake on now.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

Do yall know any drag radials that will fit lx ten holes safely? The only ones I can ever find are 275 for 15 inch wheels. Thats why Ive originally thought of getting slicks so that I could just buy 2 extra ten holes for cheap and put some 8 inch slicks on them.

JD1964 · Dec 25, 2015

Your 60' time is hurting you for sure. One tenth quicker 60' time is worth at least two tenths quicker ET at the end of the track. Knock the 60' down to 1.7 and you're in the low 13's. With the right launch technique and a good hook, you can do it.

A5literMan · Dec 25, 2015

26x8.5"x15 is a popular size or a 255/60-15 drag radial. Radials are harder to launch consistently with a manual trans with lower power levels(like a n/a 302 etc). I highly recommend a bias ply tire. Also to make more power grab a pro-m 75-80mm MAF,a good fenderwell cai(NO open filter inside engine compartment-they hurt performance),some 24#inj(if still running 19's),a good fuel pump(Walboro 255),70-75mm throttle body(I like accu fab-others tend to whistle),and a good intake(ported explorer,or HolleySMII-edelbrock RPMII). Those along with your existing cam/heads can make enough hp to run 12's easily.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 25, 2015

Thanks everyone for the advice. Once I get my intake on ill take it to the track again to see what it gets me. After that I'm going to rebuild the trac lok and go from there!

RangerJoe · Dec 26, 2015

Fwiw, I went from a 9.0x 1/8th mile to a 8.4x with nothing more than adding a set of nitto 555r's. I am not the best driver and I am sure someone else could have gotten better than 9.ox out of it.

Joe

cleanLX · Dec 26, 2015

First off, where do you race?
Elevation and D/A play a huge role in what your car "should" run with the mods installed.
I would agree that it usually takes 100+ mph to put a Fox into the 12's. I also agree that if you are at or near sea level 96mph seems low. How many miles on the motor?
If I am to give advice it is don't spend money on in the fender this or that. The stock air box is plenty fine. If you have not already bought a throttle body, don't spend money there. When my motor was stock, with CnL 76 MAM I was running 103-104 week in and week out. Those item will not hurt you, but they are not "needed". The money you save there can go towards gears, tires and exhaust.
Go ahead and put your explorer intake on, that will make a significant difference.
Get a larger than stock MAM. The stock 55mm unit is a restriction. For a mild combo a CnL 76 will work just fine. (big debate here, but guy that last tuned my car, and worked in Ford electronics back in the Fox days says to use any MAM that keeps the Ford electronics... aka not ProM... let the debate ring on that)
5spd car with a typical clutch and drag radials is not a combination set up for consistency. If you insist on drag radials, look into a clutch slip mechanism. Drag radials put a lot of shock load thru the drive train on a hard launch, or, are a nightmare to walk out of the hole with any repeatable performance.
Go with your initial thoughts of slicks. If you must drive it on the street, look at DOT bias tires like Hoosier quick time or Mickey ET street.
3.55's are not helping you. I'm sure with enough power to support the gear 12's will come but I would be looking at 4.10's.
If those simple things don't get you there, start looking into long tube headers and a decent 2.5" exhaust.

History;
My car went 13.2's at 101 all day when it had nothing but off road H, 3.73's and 235 drag radials... at sea level.
Same car struggled to run 13.7's at 97 running in 2500' D/A.
D/A is huge.
Later, same car with long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 76MAM, 26" DOT's and 4.10's the car was running 12.9's at 104 on the stock motor...same 2500' D/A.
Point being, you are close... mass air, gear and stickies then get after it.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 26, 2015

cleanLX said:
First off, where do you race?
Elevation and D/A play a huge role in what your car "should" run with the mods installed.
I would agree that it usually takes 100+ mph to put a Fox into the 12's. I also agree that if you are at or near sea level 96mph seems low. How many miles on the motor?
If I am to give advice it is don't spend money on in the fender this or that. The stock air box is plenty fine. If you have not already bought a throttle body, don't spend money there. When my motor was stock, with CnL 76 MAM I was running 103-104 week in and week out. Those item will not hurt you, but they are not "needed". The money you save there can go towards gears, tires and exhaust.
Go ahead and put your explorer intake on, that will make a significant difference.
Get a larger than stock MAM. The stock 55mm unit is a restriction. For a mild combo a CnL 76 will work just fine. (big debate here, but guy that last tuned my car, and worked in Ford electronics back in the Fox days says to use any MAM that keeps the Ford electronics... aka not ProM... let the debate ring on that)
5spd car with a typical clutch and drag radials is not a combination set up for consistency. If you insist on drag radials, look into a clutch slip mechanism. Drag radials put a lot of shock load thru the drive train on a hard launch, or, are a nightmare to walk out of the hole with any repeatable performance.
Go with your initial thoughts of slicks. If you must drive it on the street, look at DOT bias tires like Hoosier quick time or Mickey ET street.
3.55's are not helping you. I'm sure with enough power to support the gear 12's will come but I would be looking at 4.10's.
If those simple things don't get you there, start looking into long tube headers and a decent 2.5" exhaust.

History;
My car went 13.2's at 101 all day when it had nothing but off road H, 3.73's and 235 drag radials... at sea level.
Same car struggled to run 13.7's at 97 running in 2500' D/A.
D/A is huge.
Later, same car with long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 76MAM, 26" DOT's and 4.10's the car was running 12.9's at 104 on the stock motor...same 2500' D/A.
Point being, you are close... mass air, gear and stickies then get after it.

Thanks for the info. Im at sealevel in North Carolina. Do you think 355 to 410 could really gain 3mph? The engine was rebuilt not too long ago. The previous owner had it done so I don't know how many miles are on it but the gaskets look fresh. I also already have longtubes and dual exhaust with no cats. I'm hoping the heads, cam, exhaust, and lontubes with the stock intake are actually hurting the performance and that's why I'm running slower than expected. I'm also confused on why people say drag radials are harder on a car than slicks? wouldn't the slicks provide more grip and hurt the driveline more?

OneWheelPeel · Dec 26, 2015

I just looked through my timeslips and the quickest et I ever had was a 14.006 at 95 mph and my fastest mph was 97 with a 14.1 et

Chuckman · Dec 26, 2015

imo, put some new clutches in the rear, swap on that explorer intake (and if you've got it, the explorer 65mm t/b or larger), and with a decent slick or a dr (the slick will be much easier to launch, but the dr will net you a tad more mph on the big end) you'll be in the 12's fairly easily, especially if the car is light. keep a decent tuneup in it (plugs gapped right, bump the timing up to about 14-16 base, clean filters, fresh coil, etc), make sure nothing leaks (oil in the intake, blowby, etc). ditch the spare tire/jack, dogbone on the diff, put some skinnys on the front. short belt at the track to bypass the a/c, smog, and p/s. a 3.73 or 4.10 swap would help. and PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE.

slicks can be harder on a driveline when they hook, but a dr spinning and "hopping" can be just as, if not more, catastrophic to an axle.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 26, 2015

I see, thanks for the info.

1/4 Mile Gain With Slicks?

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I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

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At least it is lumpy...

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

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At least it is lumpy...

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

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there is enough sticking out to grab on to

At least it is lumpy...

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I leave the horn on while driving

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GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

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