10 grand for the tech Stangers
- Thread starter 91foxbod50
- Start date
If you want a stronger transmission with less drivetrain loss, no modifications needed, and cheaper to boot, get a Astro A5 or G-Force T5. Factor in a new clutch into the cost.
I disagree about AFR's not being worth the $$$. A few years ago, you may have been able to argue that. Now you get a completely revised valvetrain (lighter than competition), plus FULL CNC ports AND chambers, and a proven background in reliability compared to many others for the SBF. You add that to the competition's heads and you would spend roughly $200 more to get the same pros. AFR's are well worth the money and one of the BEST deals out there. Quit looking at the price and look at what you get for the price!
Edelbrock Performer does not cost $900, roughly $500.
Buy the TFS kit, sell the TFS-1 camshaft, and buy a custom camshaft. If you partner with a custom camshaft guy, they can piece together a H/C/I kit with better parts for just a little more. Ed Curtis at www.flowtechinduction.com did just that for me. Put it all together as a set, from cylinder heads to pushrods.
10K for a loan is not the most practical thing (learned from my mistake on a smaller loan years ago), but as stated, if that is what you want and since you know your situation, that makes you the best to hopefully make the best practical decision, balancing wants and needs.
Believe it or not, but shipping will not be much at all. Try to order in as little shipments as possible and take advantage of flate rates.
Better yet, save the extra dollars that you have for the "just in case" problems that could occur.
Good Luck!
I disagree about AFR's not being worth the $$$. A few years ago, you may have been able to argue that. Now you get a completely revised valvetrain (lighter than competition), plus FULL CNC ports AND chambers, and a proven background in reliability compared to many others for the SBF. You add that to the competition's heads and you would spend roughly $200 more to get the same pros. AFR's are well worth the money and one of the BEST deals out there. Quit looking at the price and look at what you get for the price!
Edelbrock Performer does not cost $900, roughly $500.
Buy the TFS kit, sell the TFS-1 camshaft, and buy a custom camshaft. If you partner with a custom camshaft guy, they can piece together a H/C/I kit with better parts for just a little more. Ed Curtis at www.flowtechinduction.com did just that for me. Put it all together as a set, from cylinder heads to pushrods.
10K for a loan is not the most practical thing (learned from my mistake on a smaller loan years ago), but as stated, if that is what you want and since you know your situation, that makes you the best to hopefully make the best practical decision, balancing wants and needs.
Believe it or not, but shipping will not be much at all. Try to order in as little shipments as possible and take advantage of flate rates.
Better yet, save the extra dollars that you have for the "just in case" problems that could occur.
Good Luck!
88mouse
New Member
I would take the 10grand and go buy another car that somebody has allready fully built.
There are some really good deals out there right now.
About three weeks ago this guy came up to me at the store and was talking to me about mustang. Said he has a 93Gt that has been cloned into a cobra, with 28grand in it. And needs to get rid of it to pay some bills. Said he would take 10grand for it.
There are some really good deals out there right now.
About three weeks ago this guy came up to me at the store and was talking to me about mustang. Said he has a 93Gt that has been cloned into a cobra, with 28grand in it. And needs to get rid of it to pay some bills. Said he would take 10grand for it.
my vote would be rebuild the stock motor,completely stock heds cam and all, only fresh and beef up what you can while there. Balance, girdle, rod bolts, good gaskets and arp bolts. Put 42# injectors, 255 intank pump, maf. Get a decent turbo kit, hellion, hp, ponydowns. Make 400+ hp still get good mpg when you don't have your foot stuck in it. Now the trans is your problem. TKO if you make that kind of power, but you will need a clutch 26 spline and good for what ever power level your at. If you have to have a six speed viper spec, but you are looking at 3000+$. Oh and by the way the turbo kit depending on what you get will keep you from needing to by headers, x pipe stufflike that. I have a hellion kit and it even bolts to the factory cat back if need be.
I agree, however, i also think it's nice to build a car yourself the way you want it and you know what type of work and detail went into it.
WHen i'm done with my car, i'll prob have close to $10K into it. But for me it's not about the finished product. I enjoy researching parts, buying them, doing the install, planning my next mods, etc.
Granted....i'm not taking out a loan to pay for these parts. With the way the economy is, debt for car parts is not something I want to have.
Bad enough I have a $180 car payment.
88mouse
New Member
I agree, however, i also think it's nice to build a car yourself the way you want it and you know what type of work and detail went into it.
WHen i'm done with my car, i'll prob have close to $10K into it. But for me it's not about the finished product. I enjoy researching parts, buying them, doing the install, planning my next mods, etc.
Granted....i'm not taking out a loan to pay for these parts. With the way the economy is, debt for car parts is not something I want to have.
Bad enough I have a $180 car payment.
I know what you mean about puting one together so you know what all is done to the car.
I'm going to have a progress thread here in a few week on my car.
Thanks for all of your help (for those who are with me)
And for those who think its stupid and laughable because it is such a big loan. I'll just zero it out because I have time on my hands to do so.
I dont like new cars, I like my mustang because it is easy to work on and I know it like the back of my hand. The body is straight with 0 rust. And I would wrather do the work myself than buy a 10 grand head ache.
Im a United States Marine, I dont pay rent. I dont pay for food. My hobby is cars. Says enough.
Yeah so i understand some of you might laugh and think its stupid and not necessary. But my car costs next to nothing for insurance. I dont have car payments. I dont need luxery.
I just wanted opinions on how to fluxuate my money.
I wanted a t-56 because my trans am was awesome on the highway. And i will be doing a lot of highway driveing.
I agree on the crate engine, Please fill me in more on this. what i would need to go with an install. What crate motor is the best bang for the buck along side with a nice transmission to back it up. I am looking to be at 400 hp and above for torque.
Maybe throw in an aluminum drive shaft, 3:73's with a nice sound system?
Like i said for those who are actually helping me other than laughing at me. Thanks again..
And for those who think its stupid and laughable because it is such a big loan. I'll just zero it out because I have time on my hands to do so.
I dont like new cars, I like my mustang because it is easy to work on and I know it like the back of my hand. The body is straight with 0 rust. And I would wrather do the work myself than buy a 10 grand head ache.
Im a United States Marine, I dont pay rent. I dont pay for food. My hobby is cars. Says enough.
Yeah so i understand some of you might laugh and think its stupid and not necessary. But my car costs next to nothing for insurance. I dont have car payments. I dont need luxery.
I just wanted opinions on how to fluxuate my money.
I wanted a t-56 because my trans am was awesome on the highway. And i will be doing a lot of highway driveing.
I agree on the crate engine, Please fill me in more on this. what i would need to go with an install. What crate motor is the best bang for the buck along side with a nice transmission to back it up. I am looking to be at 400 hp and above for torque.
Maybe throw in an aluminum drive shaft, 3:73's with a nice sound system?
Like i said for those who are actually helping me other than laughing at me. Thanks again..
You may want to check out the final gear ratios on the T-56 and compare it to the T5. 
It is an extremely small amount from 6th to 5th gear for each transmission. Not to mention that the drivetrain loss is less with a T5, which will help mileage and power for the T5 combination. It is also cheaper (no conversion) and stronger with an A5 or G-Force.
Do not ever get a T56 for better gas mileage. That is a misconception.
Good Luck. It sounds like you got a plan!
It is an extremely small amount from 6th to 5th gear for each transmission. Not to mention that the drivetrain loss is less with a T5, which will help mileage and power for the T5 combination. It is also cheaper (no conversion) and stronger with an A5 or G-Force.
Do not ever get a T56 for better gas mileage. That is a misconception.
Good Luck. It sounds like you got a plan!
AGREED!!!!!!!!!!
My friend bought a 60K one owner black 89 notchback for 9K. It had everyone suspension piece replaced with steeda ones, H/C/I/blower, a fuel system, gauges, etc. It handles awesome and put down 442rwhp while being so rich it was off the charts.
Evilfox
New Member
Aluminum driveshafts are nice but you can get away with a stock one. As for crate engines they are WAY out of your budget. Looking at 8k+ for a fully dressed 450hp 347. from Summit. 5-6k for a modest 302(300hp)
If you can do the work yourself I wouldn't recommend a crate engine. 3.73's are a little steep if you want decent highway mileage. The T56's 6th gear is only .06 higher then the your alternative, the T5. 3.55 or higher would be a better bet.
If you can do the work yourself I wouldn't recommend a crate engine. 3.73's are a little steep if you want decent highway mileage. The T56's 6th gear is only .06 higher then the your alternative, the T5. 3.55 or higher would be a better bet.
.63:1 for the T5
Also, many of the A5 and G-Force transmission offer a better overdrive gear than .63:1 or .62:1.
I guess that all depends on your source?
.68:1 for the T5
.....and here
It seems that the factory "close ratio" offering (3.35 1st gear) was based on a .68:1 ratio when they went world class in the mid-80's.
From what I can tell, the Aftermarket ones vary from .63, .68, .72 and even .80 withe the "wide ratio" (2.95 1st gear) gearset.
The viper T-56 has a nice OD ratio, but you need power to run that trans. The gearing is not really suited for a sub-300HP engine.
Same really for the Cobra spec T-56. If you got a stock 225HP 5.0, and they both ran indentical 1/4 mile times, and put a t-56 into one of them...that car would now run slightly slower due to the gearing not really being perfect for it's power level.
Same really for the Cobra spec T-56. If you got a stock 225HP 5.0, and they both ran indentical 1/4 mile times, and put a t-56 into one of them...that car would now run slightly slower due to the gearing not really being perfect for it's power level.
I would imagine there's slightly more drivetrain loss with the T56 than there is with the T5 as well. Couldn't really guess how much though?
Personally...i'd take a G-force T-5 for a mild build. It's strong enough and it's a light transmission and easier to shift.
Granted, everyone wants a 6-spd for the "exotic" factor but it's really not necessary as Mustangs have a broad torque curve and don't need the close ratios like torqueless 4-bangers do. If you notice there they stick the extra gear, it's between 4th and 5th on a standard 5-spd. The 6-spd was more designed for road racing where 5th gear in a 5-spd is just much too tall to accelerate...so they stuck in a 0.80 ratio which is more acceptable.
So unless you plan on spending a lot of time at WOT past 100MPH, buying a 6-spd is pretty much just to say you have one (other than the fact it is a decently beefy trans)
Granted, everyone wants a 6-spd for the "exotic" factor but it's really not necessary as Mustangs have a broad torque curve and don't need the close ratios like torqueless 4-bangers do. If you notice there they stick the extra gear, it's between 4th and 5th on a standard 5-spd. The 6-spd was more designed for road racing where 5th gear in a 5-spd is just much too tall to accelerate...so they stuck in a 0.80 ratio which is more acceptable.
So unless you plan on spending a lot of time at WOT past 100MPH, buying a 6-spd is pretty much just to say you have one (other than the fact it is a decently beefy trans)
How much would it cost to run a combo like this? I know the trick flow kit isnt that expensive, but im not sure how much my bottom end is going to handle.
Is their anyway i can pick up a nice bottom end for a good price and just add an hci?
Then from their I could add on a nice t-5 with some 3:55's?
It had better be some T5 to stand up to 560lbs/ft of torque. If you insist on sticking with a 5-speed, I would abandon the T5 idea and look into a TKO 500 or 600. At least then you know you're not going to be spitting parts all over the place on your first power shift.
