10 Hole Wheel Lover!

85_SS_302_Coupe said:
Sweet....can i make a suggestion? Since you're gonna have yours widened, which is something i've always wanted to do but never seem to get around to....my idea was to have about an inch added to the OUTER edge of the back wheels to give it a little deep dish...this would looks sweeeet IMO, but i'm not sure how the weld would come out or if it would rub the fenders any...other than that i was gonna go with 9 inches too. I'd love to get a second set of 2 and have skinnies made. Whoever you have do yours, check and see if they can add anything to the inside of the wheel where it meets up with the brake disks/wheel hubs to space them outwards a little bit.


Sure thing. I've been trying to call this guy for a week after speaking to him once. I'm pretty sure he can do jsut about any backspacing within reason. Normally he would cut both sides and add material on the inside and outside. Probably cheaper to add just to the outside. I'm thinking probably 6.5 backspacing for mine (which is the norm for a 9 inch on a fox). I'll find out more when I get him back on the phone.
 
85_SS_302_Coupe:

You may need to call this guy and see if you can make sense of what he's saying (I'm not sure I'm visualizing what he's saying correctly). His name is Eric and the phone number is 626-358-6413. He says that normally the material is added to the inside of the rim but can add to the outside if there's room. Then he went on to talk about 13.something inches diameter blah blah blah and I was lost. If the stock rims are 7 inches wide and two inches are added to the inside then I don't think they'd fit. I know they won't clear the quad shocks and may not even clear the shocks (will have to measure to find out). After thinking about this a little more I can see that I'm going to have to obtain another set of rims as well (at least two) and send them to him to see what all can be done. Give him a call and see if you can understand what he's saying and let me know.
 
The pic I posted isn't cleared. I tried it and the clear dulls the mirror finish. Eastwood sells that Zoop produst as well.

Can I get some feedback on that one wheel I posted up? Look ok? If so I'll do the other 3 like it.

Just got my 3.73's, Richmond kit, and trac-loc kit installed today. Getting the rear end ready to put back in right now :hail2:
 
PNY PWR said:
The pic I posted isn't cleared. I tried it and the clear dulls the mirror finish. Eastwood sells that Zoop produst as well.

Can I get some feedback on that one wheel I posted up? Look ok? If so I'll do the other 3 like it.

Just got my 3.73's, Richmond kit, and trac-loc kit installed today. Getting the rear end ready to put back in right now :hail2:

I think it looks good, but it's not "finished" yet.... Think of polished aluminum like it's chrome...when it's "perfect" it'll look just like it's chrome. Here's a good example, courtesy of the well known ALMOST STOCK:



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Just keep working down the polishing compounds to the finest of them, make sure you're using a different wheel for each compound and take your time. It does look good like it is now, but if i were going the distance i'd make sure it's perfect, otherwise it's too close to the stock look.
 
Thanks for the advice 85, I've just been using some cheap stuff I bought here locally. I ordered some good material and buffs, they should be here today. I'm sure that will make a difference as well. This buffing and polishing isn't easy by no means. UPS man just came, arghh, time to go back to work.
 
PNY PWR said:
Thanks for the advice 85, I've just been using some cheap stuff I bought here locally. I ordered some good material and buffs, they should be here today. I'm sure that will make a difference as well. This buffing and polishing isn't easy by no means. UPS man just came, arghh, time to go back to work.


Hey, the biggest advide i can give, is when you're sanding out those little machine lines that the factory put in, use the LIGHTEST grit sandpaper you can....it might take you longer to sand them out, but i promise you it's going to be harder to sand out the marks you put into the metal with the lower grit paper....that was my big mistake when i did my wheels.
 
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
Hey, the biggest advide i can give, is when you're sanding out those little machine lines that the factory put in, use the LIGHTEST grit sandpaper you can....it might take you longer to sand them out, but i promise you it's going to be harder to sand out the marks you put into the metal with the lower grit paper....that was my big mistake when i did my wheels.

I completely agree, made that mistake too. I finally found wet sanding 220, 400, 600 worked pretty good, you can even go 800 next to make the buffing even easier. I'm still trying to get out stray scratches from my mistakes.

I've got one wheel I haven't touched yet. The guy from Jesto where I got my new supplies said they're type 1 compound (600 grit I think) will take out the machining marks, then use the type 2 (white) I'm going to try that on this other wheel without sanding. I ordered the aluminum/manifold kit, which has those two compounds, a bunch of different buffs, and those round sanding gizmos (maybe I'll try some porting :banana: ).

I'd sure appreciate any other info/advice on the whole buffing and polishing subject. It's very time consuming to do trial and error...trust me.