Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

Olivethefet · Aug 6, 2019

Mine didn't end up exactly like pictured. Like I said I had to move more of the spacers under the plate. I'll have to look at it when I get home.

Olivethefet · Aug 6, 2019

Actually I had pics on my phone. This is where I started.

And where I ended up.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 6, 2019

Habu135 said:
How many washers did you add to each strut?

You want the shaft of the strut to be as high as possible but enough spacers to prevent it from hitting the hood.

The idea is that the higher the strut shaft, the more it is extended out of the body which gives it more range of motion without bottoming out..which is a need for lowered cars.

Just use enough spacers below to clear the hood.

Habu135 · Aug 6, 2019

Mustang5L5, you sound exactly like Maximum Motorsports who I just spoke with.

So, I have to pull my struts back out and visit the hardware store to buy the necessary washers to lower the strut enough to clear my hood. That's basically what it comes down to. Ugh.

Habu135 · Aug 6, 2019

How about this for a different approach? Is it possible that I'm just over tightening the strut? I had no problem closing the hood until I finished everything yesterday. I installed an Allen wrench to the top of the strut and just kept tightening it with an opened box wrench until it got to this point. I can always untighten it which will lower the strut sufficiently to clear the hood. I have FMS B springs with Bilsteins and have plenty of room/travel within the wheel well. I also don't track the car.

Once I get home from work I'm going to unscrew the nut to see where the top of the shaft naturally rests. That will tell me a lot.

trebor3170 · Aug 6, 2019

Those look like BBK plates, they are the only ones AFAIK, that use poly bushings. There should be a steel sleeve in the bushings, you shouldn't be able to raise the strut by tightening the nut, once it's tight against the sleeve it can't go any further. If you go to LMR's web site, you can download the BBK instructions, that should help to clarify things.

Habu135 · Aug 6, 2019

Picked up these 2 little badboys from Ace Hardware. Let's hope this works.

Habu135 · Aug 6, 2019

Fingers crossed.

Habu135 · Aug 7, 2019

So I was able to wrestle the struts out of my car and took one along to the local hardware store. There I found a 3/4"x1"x1" collar that seemed to fit perfectly. Bought two and installed them. They worked perfectly and the car is now fully mobile (no remaining bugs after the full suspension and brake system install). I have an alignment scheduled for tomorrow morning. Things are looking up.

Olivethefet · Aug 7, 2019

Just an observation. In the before pictures of your setup the top of the shock was sticking way up, that was the issue. Now looking at your setup it looks like the shock is only coming up to where you can barely get the nut on. The passenger side doesn't look like you have full thread engagement. I only point this out so that someone smarter then me can chime in and see if its a problem. I would think that you would want to top of the CC plate such that you can thread the nut on and have at least a thread or two sticking out.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 7, 2019

I agree. That nut may not be threaded on far enough now. The top of the nut contains the nylon insert that resists loosening. That needs to be fully engaged on the thread.

Close up pic of that?

Habu135 · Aug 7, 2019

I torqued it down pretty good, but I can understand the concern. I may tighten it another turn or two to pull the threads up flush with the top of the nut.

TOOLOW91 · Aug 7, 2019

Habu135 said:
I torqued it down pretty good, but I can understand the concern. I may tighten it another turn or two to pull the threads up flush with the top of the nut.

Mine are very Similar with my UPR plates and no issues at all. Been that way for over 2 years prob at This point

Habu135 · Aug 7, 2019

I'll be reinstalling my panhard bar tonight. Alignment tomorrow and then I'll write up a very thorough conclusion to this entire process by Friday.

Big thanks again to everyone who encouraged me to order and install the brakes and who helped me troubleshoot the issues that cropped up.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 7, 2019

Put a small dab of white out on the nut/thread and just monitor. Should be fine.

Habu135 · Aug 7, 2019

I did that and then drove it fairly vigorously -no movement, but I can probably squeeze one more turn out of it.

Olivethefet · Aug 7, 2019

Be careful not to over torque it. Tightening to much is just as bad as not having it tight enough. You might not have any problems, but one vigorous drive will not reveal if you have a problem. Follow Mustang5L5's advice and use the white out.

The nylon in the top of the nut acts as a lock washer. If it doesn't have good thread engagement it simply wont work as designed. If you do take it to get the alignment done tomorrow you could ask them about it. You might not ever have any problems. The last thing you want to do is get an alignment then realize you have an issue that requires you to bust things apart again, requiring a new alignment.

Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to ask the guy doing the job to give everything you've done a good once over. Having another set of eyes take a look is always a good idea. That's what I did when I finally took my car to get an alignment.

Habu135 · Aug 7, 2019

Olivethefet said:
Be careful not to over torque it. Tightening to much is just as bad as not having it tight enough. You might not have any problems, but one vigorous drive will not reveal if you have a problem. Follow Mustang5L5's advice and use the white out.

The nylon in the top of the nut acts as a lock washer. If it doesn't have good thread engagement it simply wont work as designed. If you do take it to get the alignment done tomorrow you could ask them about it. You might not ever have any problems. The last thing you want to do is get an alignment then realize you have an issue that requires you to bust things apart again, requiring a new alignment.

Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to ask the guy doing the job to give everything you've done a good once over. Having another set of eyes take a look is always a good idea. That's what I did when I finally took my car to get an alignment.

Sound advice. Maximum Motorsports suggests that owners complete a post recheck/re torquing of all nuts and bolts once 1,000 miles have passed.

Habu135 · Aug 7, 2019

I checked today. There's approximately 1/2 inch of thread engagement by the nut and the strut is pushing upward. I think I'll be OK, but appreciate the comments. I went ahead and marked it.

Habu135 · Aug 8, 2019

I'm still working out a few bugs. More to follow.

Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Habu135

Habu135

trebor3170

mine usually gets hard with the car on

Habu135

Attachments

Habu135

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Habu135

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Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Habu135

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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

Habu135

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Habu135

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL

Habu135

Habu135

Habu135

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Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

I will own your nuts! LOL

I will own your nuts! LOL

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

mine usually gets hard with the car on

Attachments

Attachments

Attachments

I will own your nuts! LOL

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Attachments

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

I will own your nuts! LOL

Attachments

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