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Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

  • Thread starter Thread starter Habu135
  • Start date Start date Jul 7, 2019
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from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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#861
  • Mar 29, 2026
  • #861
Habu135 said:
I will be selling the R Series once I get the Box R to work.

I've documented most everything on this progress build to include the build list. If you go back and review my posts you'll see.
Click to expand...
Yeah but I don't have time to read it today that's why I was just asking in a nutshell lol. But all good maybe I will at some point get time to check it out
 

Habu135

5 Year Member
Jan 10, 2019
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Mar 29, 2026
#862
  • Mar 29, 2026
  • #862
from6to8 said:
Yeah but I don't have time to read it today that's why I was just asking in a nutshell lol. But all good maybe I will at some point get time to check it out
Click to expand...
Post #860 explains what happened.
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
1,896
142
94
Mar 29, 2026
#863
  • Mar 29, 2026
  • #863
Habu135 said:
Post #860 explains what happened.
Click to expand...
Cool
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
1,896
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Mar 29, 2026
#864
  • Mar 29, 2026
  • #864
Habu135 said:
I picked up 30 hp due to a number of factors. The engine was broken in during the second dyno. The engine installer initially overfilled the engine with 10 quarts of oil rather than the correct 7 qts. It had 10 qts during the first tune, 7 during the second tune. I did some exhaust work, and my tuner made peak timing lower in the rpm range during the second tune as suggested by Trick Flow's instructions. The included dyno sheet shows results from both dyno sessions.
Click to expand...
gotcha. I did not see this reply. Maybe it was an overlap between reading one of the last posts and your next reply. I think that's easy sometimes if it's a simoutaneous reply/read something along that line...
 
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from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
1,896
142
94
Mar 29, 2026
#865
  • Mar 29, 2026
  • #865
Habu135 said:
Car ended up having a blown timing chain cover gasket. Seems to be happy now.
Click to expand...
It's crazy how I replied to your latest topic this morning and ended up checking your thread to see about your engine progress. I didn't have time to look at every page so I picked every 2 pages as the forum skips odd numbers so I just pick the next number and got up to where you were having similar issues to what I'm experiencing after my vortech install on my 94 Cobra.

My issue didn't start till after the SC install and actually when it hesitates and bucks, misses it seems to go away the harder I accelerate. At first it seemed to only do it upon taking off after letting the car warm up but would smooth right out after taking off. I had the tuner change the startup tune and IIRC I think it helped some but the problem still persists. I installed a walbro 255 and 60 lb injectors and had an SCT dyno tune done. I put the 255 in prior to the SC install as I was waiting on the SC to come and I did not have any issues so I wouldn't think it's pump related. I'm getting 13 plus volts at the inertia but i do need to verify volts at the pump. I have to research what wires need to be probed as I briefly today while it was running, i stuck the tip of the probe in the connector but maybe it was not reaching the metal to make contact because i didn't get a reading. I tried 2 wires of the 3 or 4 it has.

I had 2 Taylor plug wires that were iffy because of the wire to boot contact on no. 4 and the terminal was stuck on the plug when I removed the wire the no. 6 so I put on my 2 old FR wires on just to test. I checked for arcing last night and didn't see any at all. I tried another coil as well and also another tfi module. I went back to the coil i originally had on the car today after swapping back on the tfi I removed for another I had lying around, and it actually drove fine and seemed like it was fixed. I went home and knew I was going back out on a 35 minute round trip drive and on the way there it wasn't too bad but on the way back it came back. It was not as bad as it was yesterday though but something is still going on. Just went outside because I was curious. I looked last night in the garage and didn't see any arcing anywhere. The coil I removed this morning, when put the original one back on the car drove better. So last night maybe I didn't look hard enough because tonight I actually looked harder at the coil from different angles, leaning over and stuff and I saw arcing inside the rim of the frame that seats the coil. So I assume that is definitely a problem and I need a new one. Gonna see now what those part number of the 2 coils are. The one that was on that seems to run better is 4G20B and the other is 4G30B ( unless that's an O).

I hope it' just the coil, I don't see any sparks on the wires at all even though the wires are not new. I will replace them at some point but was just trying to diagnose and eliminate stuff. Just checked my timing cover by the way and that looks fine.
 
Reactions: General karthief

Habu135

5 Year Member
Jan 10, 2019
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May 6, 2026
#866
  • May 6, 2026
  • #866
Adding this post to my ongoing build progress.

Thread 'Trick Flow Series R to Box R Upper Intake Road Block'

Mar 31, 2026
I'm in the process of swapping out a Trick Flow R Series upper intake (bottom photo) with a Trick Flow Box R upper intake (top photo). During installation I quickly realized that my Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is hitting the back passenger's side of the new Box R intake. It appears I need to relocate my FPR which will also trigger a requirement for new fuel rails. I'd appreciate anyone sharing with me what parts are needed for this swap as well as any other suggestions you have. Thanks

  • Habu135
  • Replies: 78
  • Forum: 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
 
Reactions: Willybill32, 85GT4V and from6to8

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,130
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Box behind Walmart
May 6, 2026
#867
  • May 6, 2026
  • #867
I should have that distributor cap on Saturday. The rotor comes a few days later.
 
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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,130
21,298
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Box behind Walmart
May 9, 2026
#868
  • May 9, 2026
  • #868
It's official: That cap swap does not work on our distributors.

The distributor that it does work on has the extra set of clips to hold that spacer down.

For some reason, they added that spacer to Duraspark distributors to make them compatible with ours. The spacer and mount for the spacer is different and don't mate up.
 
Reactions: Habu135

Habu135

5 Year Member
Jan 10, 2019
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781
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California
May 9, 2026
#869
  • May 9, 2026
  • #869
Noobz347 said:
It's official: That cap swap does not work on our distributors.

The distributor that it does work on has the extra set of clips to hold that spacer down.

For some reason, they added that spacer to Duraspark distributors to make them compatible with ours. The spacer and mount for the spacer is different and don't mate up.
Click to expand...
Good looking out there. Odd that they would add the spacer. Sort of a reverse compatability thing. Thanks for doing that research. Seems like one of the few options is a Holley low rise distributor.
 

Habu135

5 Year Member
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May 12, 2026
#870
  • May 12, 2026
  • #870
After nearly a month of my car up on jacks doing trial and error on the new Box R intake and replacing the Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a stock style, I took it for a spirited drive. Assessing and listening the whole time and then got into it a bit. Stopped to listen and heard and smelled radiator fluid belching out the lower front half of the engine just above the main crank pulley. WTH?!?! Nursed it home and looked underneath and it appears that the water pump gasket blew out just above the main pulley. I even added fresh water to the radiator and sure enough it's just leaking out. Is this a thing? Ugh!!
 
Reactions: gkomo

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
1,896
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May 13, 2026
#871
  • May 13, 2026
  • #871
Habu135 said:
After nearly a month of my car up on jacks doing trial and error on the new Box R intake and replacing the Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a stock style, I took it for a spirited drive. Assessing and listening the whole time and then got into it a bit. Stopped to listen and heard and smelled radiator fluid belching out the lower front half of the engine just above the main crank pulley. WTH?!?! Nursed it home and looked underneath and it appears that the water pump gasket blew out just above the main pulley. I even added fresh water to the radiator and sure enough it's just leaking out. Is this a thing? Ugh!!
Click to expand...
if it ain't one thing it's another that's for sure....
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#872
  • May 13, 2026
  • #872
How old is the WP?
 

Habu135

5 Year Member
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#873
  • May 13, 2026
  • #873
General karthief said:
How old is the WP?
Click to expand...
Approximately 2 years old. It was installed with the new engine.
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
1,896
142
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May 13, 2026
#874
  • May 13, 2026
  • #874
Habu135 said:
Approximately 2 years old. It was installed with the new engine.
Click to expand...
Wow that's crazy
 

Habu135

5 Year Member
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#875
  • May 13, 2026
  • #875
And I had no leaks from it. So it just blows? Bizarre.

Big car show on 24 May for Memorial Day. So I need to get it up and running again. Ill pull the water pump on Saturday and will figure it out.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#876
  • May 13, 2026
  • #876
So the only part of the gasket that actually holds water is the parts around the two long bolts i.e. the water passages. If the bottom blew out then one or both of the water passage seals let go.
 

Habu135

5 Year Member
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#877
  • May 13, 2026
  • #877
AeroCoupe said:
So the only part of the gasket that actually holds water is the parts around the two long bolts i.e. the water passages. If the bottom blew out then one or both of the water passage seals let go.
Click to expand...
It was blowing high pressure coolant directly onto the top of the crank.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Claremore, OK
May 13, 2026
#878
  • May 13, 2026
  • #878
I just rethought my previous statement and between the water pump backing plate and the timing cover my thought is correct but between the pump and backing plate it could leak everywhere.

I have literally found that after a couple heat cycles you can retorque the bolts on the water pump as they generally need it. Hopefully it was just that.
 

Habu135

5 Year Member
Jan 10, 2019
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May 13, 2026
#879
  • May 13, 2026
  • #879
AeroCoupe said:
I just rethought my previous statement and between the water pump backing plate and the timing cover my thought is correct but between the pump and backing plate it could leak everywhere.

I have literally found that after a couple heat cycles you can retorque the bolts on the water pump as they generally need it. Hopefully it was just that.
Click to expand...
I'll take photos once I pull the water pump.
 
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Habu135

5 Year Member
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May 16, 2026
#880
  • May 16, 2026
  • #880
Most definitely blew the water pump gasket. And thinking back for the past few days, l do remember a slight leak ever since initial engine install by my mechanic.

Any suggestions from you all how to reinstall this securely so I never have to deal with a leaking water pump again is much appreciated. Stuff like, dry install or add some sealant? Thanks

 

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