1966 I-6 Header To Starter Clearance

Sweetmarie66

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Dec 29, 2017
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Hey everyone!!!! We just got our Scott drake dual outlet header and are having some clearance issues with it hitting the starter . Have read that you can massage the tube with a Ford BFH, but I'm really not happy about mashing it to fit. Was hoping that someone out there would no of a mini starter that would fit. We have a T-5 transmission and the starter that is in her now is a 2 bolt. The solenoid is mounted on the firewall not on the starter itself. If you need me to give you more information just tell me what you require and I would be happy to get it for you as I will not be sleeping period. Lol. Thanks for your time everyone
 

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i think there is a mini starter that fits, but i cant remember where it comes from. you might ask this question at fordsix.com as someone over there is run into this issue.
 
Ok. I checked out the links you suggest. I had seen on Ford six the 9406 looks like it would work. Once it warms up a bit (it's-29C ) my shop is chilly lol. I will count the teeth on the flywheel. I apologise but could u explain what "FE" means? U mentioned that in your post and it also says that in the part description on the summit site. If you require more info about the I6 or anything please let me no. Thank you for your help!!! And happy New year!!!!!
 
the "FE" is a designation for a particular class of ford engine. in this case it is the designation for the 390/406/427/428 big blocks. supposedly FE stands for ford engine, depending on who you talk to. it basically separates the 390 based big blocks from the 385 series big block, aka the 429/460.

as for counting the teeth, no nee to do that since ford uses the same tooth spacing on their starter pinion gears pretty much across the board, so it doesnt matter if you have a 138 tooth ring gear, a 164 tooth ring gear, or what ever.
 
Ok cool. Thanks for clarification on the FE abbreviation and the flywheel teeth. I guess here's the big question. My pop's is a old school gear head. I've been pulling wrenches with him since I was 6. He's always been able to "make it work " by whatever means possible. He has mentioned instead of mashing the crap out of the header tube rather use his hydraulic press and put a soft dimple in the tube to clear the starter. Now this would likely work but what about the heat? Would this get the starter? Furthermore purchasing the mini starter if t didn't work I've read that because it is a electric part I cannot return it. Can't get one locally so would be purchased online. I do value your opinion and trust that it would work.. ugh so frustrating. What would u do? Massage the header or just bite the bullet and pay the 438.00 CAD$? Again thank you for responding and for your advice!
 

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massaging the headers is rather normal in just about every install. heck i even had to massage my headers to clear the bolt heads so i could install and tighten down the bolts on my 66 mustang.

the longer you can make the dimple, the better. that way you dont lose airflow at that point, or you can at least minimize the loss. some guys will flatten a long portion of the tube, or more accurately they will oval the pipe. this has the advantage of maintaining the pipe flow area while still gaining the required clearance.

speaking of clearance, as long as you have at least 1/2" of clearance with the starter, you should have no issues since you dont use the starter all that much.

another option to gain clearance with the starter is to heat the pipe up and bend it while hot to gain the necessary clearance. to do this you might have to R&R the header a few times until you get the clearance you need.

as for the starter itself, what you might do is head on down to the local classic car junkyard, and grab a starter off an FE engine, and bolt it to your motor to see if it fits the way you want it to. your investment should be around $10, which you can recoup by rebuilding the old starter and selling it on craigslist.

if you get a mini starter for your motor, get one that you can "clock" or change the position of the solenoid to provide clearance for the header.
 
I would recommend doing this with the heat wrench. If you can just heat the primary tubes up and bend the header a little bit, that is better than the BFH method. You should also probably buy some heat wrap and wrap the header to protect the starter. You can also build a heat shield for the starter but you might not have clearance for that since you are already having problems with your existing starter.

rbohm, I always though FE stood for Ford Edsel since that was the first car the FE motor ever came in?
 
I would recommend doing this with the heat wrench. If you can just heat the primary tubes up and bend the header a little bit, that is better than the BFH method. You should also probably buy some heat wrap and wrap the header to protect the starter. You can also build a heat shield for the starter but you might not have clearance for that since you are already having problems with your existing starter.

rbohm, I always though FE stood for Ford Edsel since that was the first car the FE motor ever came in?

good call on the heat wrap rusty.

as for the engine designation, its possible, but i though the edsel got the MEL engine, same as mercury and lincoln. at this point who really knows.
 
Wow you guys are awsome . Am going to head over to my pop's shop on the weekend. Thanks so much for all the information guys!!!! Got some more questions about a carburetor and such. One battle at a time lol. Thanks again
 
Wow you guys are awsome . Am going to head over to my pop's shop on the weekend. Thanks so much for all the information guys!!!! Got some more questions about a carburetor and such. One battle at a time lol. Thanks again

my advice, dump the one barrel carb and go with a two barrel carb. even if you use a two barrel to one barrel adapter. the 38/38 weber is a good one to use as is the 2100 autolite. also swap out the load o matic distributor and go with a later dual advance distributor, prefferably a duraspark system.
 
I will send u some pictures of the ignition I currently have. I've seen that I can get the 38 Webber from Clifford. Wow pricey. Do u no if i would have any height issues with running the two barrel? Also any advice on places to look for the 38 or the 2100 and a adapter plate? Awsome. Thanks so much!
 
try vintageinlines.com for adapter plates, and carbs. yes the weber can be pricy. another place you can try for the carb is http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/ they have the weber carb as well, they also sell the carter/weber carb also. either way get the adapter from vintageinlines as they are much shorter than the adapters from stovebolt.

i am assuming that you have a 66 mustang, and hood clearance can be a bit tight with the adapters. look around at vintageinlines as i believe they have air cleaner systems that can help gain hood clearance. you can also mill the adapter as needed to gain clearance as well.
 
You should probably start a new thread about the carb stuff and another for the ignition stuff as well. Thread topics help direct people to the topic they can help with. Right now everyone will still think this is about header clearance.